Beyond the Cardamom Mountains

បោះពុម្ពផ្សាយ: 17.02.2019

In general, Cambodians are not considered very ambitious. Some things are easier to handle with calmness and serenity.
In general, Cambodians are considered quite relaxed. Some things are easier to handle with calmness and serenity.

When you travel from Thailand to Cambodia, you quickly notice that a different set of rules is being played here. The many casinos attest to this, but first and foremost, the border officer naturally demands 5 US $ more than the visa actually costs. We didn't dare to ask more than three times what it was for. After all, we wanted to enter the country.

There are many curious things in Cambodia. Such as the means of transportation: You see trucks with people sitting on the cab and trucks without a cab at all. At least the driver wears a motorcycle helmet. In addition to traffic safety, occupational safety is also emphasized. We watched as an electrician leaned his ladder against a thin power pole. Shaky, he climbed to the top rung of the too short ladder and fiddled with the electrical wiring. Needless to say, he wasn't wearing safety shoes, especially since there was a sharp metal fence right below him. It is precisely these situations that make traveling never boring.

We quickly felt comfortable in Cambodia. This continued throughout our entire stay. Especially because we met some of the friendliest people of our trip here. Whether street vendors, tuk-tuk drivers or hotel staff, they were all helpful and friendly, always had a banana ready for Antonia and a smile on their face.

Like the past weeks in Thailand, we were traveling in Cambodia together with Swenja's parents. Our first stop was the city of Battambang in the northwest of the country. The city center still consists mainly of buildings from the French colonial period. They have their characteristic charm, especially since some cafes and art galleries have settled there, inviting you to browse. The same goes for the large market, where you can get pretty much anything from T-shirts to crustaceans.

Crabs ready for sale, for those who dare to reach into the basket.
Crabs ready for sale, for those who dare to reach into the basket.

The fish paste factory is not for the faint-hearted.
The fish paste factory is not for the faint-hearted.


Thinly sliced banana chips are placed on bamboo and then dried in the sun. This produces a long-lasting, tasty snack.
Thinly sliced banana chips are placed on bamboo and then dried in the sun. This produces a long-lasting, tasty snack.


There are about 30,000 Buddhist monks in Cambodia. Their number is declining, but it is not uncommon to encounter them outside of monasteries.
There are about 30,000 Buddhist monks in Cambodia. Their number is declining, but it is not uncommon to encounter them outside of monasteries.


Rice grains laid out to dry need to be regularly turned.
Rice grains laid out to dry need to be regularly turned.


Some corners seem to have stopped in time.
Some corners seem to have stopped in time.


The painting work is almost completed.
The painting work is almost completed.

Cool tile floor and someone who appreciates it.
Cool tile floor and someone who appreciates it.


From Battambang, you can take a bus to Siem Reap in three to four hours, which was our next stop. We took the boat on the Sangker River and across the Tonle Sap Lake, the largest lake in the country, to reach Siem Reap. The villages built on rafts along the river are the reason why this boat operates: On the one hand, it is an important means of transport for many people living in these floating villages, and on the other hand, many tourists undertake the long and noisy journey to get an impression of this region that can only be reached by water. People build their houses on rafts because the water level of the Tonle Sap and its tributaries fluctuates by up to eight meters throughout the year. We knew that the journey could take five to nine hours. Since we got stuck several times due to the low water level in the dry season and then a fishing net got tangled in the engine, we actually spent nine hours on the boat. It would be an exaggeration to say that we enjoyed the ride. However, the insights into the lives of the people and the landscape shaped by changing water levels were definitely worth the additional hours of travel. We were also shocked by the masses of plastic waste that cover the banks.

On the banks of the Sangker, the dwellings of the rural population are very Spartan.
On the banks of the Sangker, the dwellings of the rural population are very Spartan.


Houseboat waiting on dry land until the next rainy season.
Houseboat waiting on dry land until the next rainy season.


Our captain and the next generation.
Our captain and the next generation.


If you don
If you don't have your own motorized boat, you can use the public boat to run errands in the city. However, the travel time is several hours.


Drop nets mounted on rafts become more frequent as you approach the mouth of the Tonle Sap.
Drop nets mounted on rafts become more frequent as you approach the mouth of the Tonle Sap.


Within the floating villages, boats are the only means of transportation.
Within the floating villages, boats are the only means of transportation.

Siem Reap is a city near the Angkor region, which was the center of the historic Khmer Kingdom of Kambuja from the 9th to the 15th century. It is the starting point for visiting the architectural wonders of the Khmer in the form of unique temple complexes - especially Angkor Wat, the largest temple complex in the world. Several capital cities and a large central temple were built on a total area of more than 200 km² by successive kings. While the houses and palaces were made of wood and have not been preserved, many of the temples can be visited. To date, more than 1,000 temples and sanctuaries of various sizes have been discovered. There are speculations that up to one million people could have lived in the greater Angkor area at the peak of the historical kingdom, on an area of ​​approximately 1,000 km². More than in London, Paris or Istanbul at that time.

Even though Angkor Wat is the largest temple, we found others more impressive. Bayon, Banteay Srei, Ta Prohm, or Beng Mealea. They all have their unique character and enchant with large faces made of multiple stone blocks or finest stone carving. In the last two mentioned, it is the trees that give the temples their exotic-mystical charm. Especially Beng Mealea has hardly been restored so far. Wooden walkways lead through the temple complex and allow you to experience the impressions of early adventurers of the 19th century. If it weren't for Chinese tour groups showing up in quantities that can hardly be described as anything other than "busload".


Tall tree giants testify to quieter years and give Ta Prohm its very own charm.
Tall tree giants testify to quieter years and give Ta Prohm its very own charm.


Restoration work is underway in many places, as seen here at Ta Prohm.
Restoration work is underway in many places, as seen here at Ta Prohm.


Ta Prohm - not just a backdrop for Lara Croft in Tomb Raider.
Ta Prohm - not just a backdrop for Lara Croft in Tomb Raider.


Like most Cambodians we encountered, this supervisor is also very friendly and fans Antonia.
Like most Cambodians we encountered, this supervisor is also very friendly and fans Antonia.


Even with numerous tourists, you can still enjoy peaceful moments with a little patience.


Sunset from the Pre Rup Temple.
Sunset from the Pre Rup Temple.


While most other temples of Angkor were dedicated to Hindu deities, the Bayon Temple was already built as a Buddhist temple.
While most other temples of Angkor were dedicated to Hindu deities, the Bayon Temple was already built as a Buddhist temple.


The expressive faces on the numerous towers are unmistakably associated with Buddhism.
The expressive faces on the numerous towers are unmistakably associated with Buddhism.


In Banteay Srei, the attention to detail is fascinating.
In Banteay Srei, the attention to detail is fascinating.


Cozy nap in the bamboo grove.
Cozy nap in the bamboo grove.


About 40 km east of Angkor lies the temple of Beng Mealea. Restoration work has hardly been carried out here so far.
About 40 km east of Angkor lies the temple of Beng Mealea. Restoration work has hardly been carried out here so far.

As a final curiosity, we want to mention the Cambodian currency. The official currency is the Riel. Four thousand Riel have the equivalent value of one US $. In other countries, the ratio is even more unbalanced, but it is customary in Cambodia to pay everything above a value of four thousand Riel in US $. It takes some getting used to, as you constantly have two currencies in your wallet. You first have to find out that ATMs are only stocked with US $, but the software of the ATMs is still set to Riel. When we were not particularly successful with our first attempts to withdraw money and chose the lowest pre-set amount, we tried to withdraw 10,000 US $, which was rejected for understandable reasons, and on the other hand, to receive Riel worth 2.5 US $, which would not have gotten us much further.

ចម្លើយ (2)

Harald
Schöne Fotos,tolle Eindrücke. Wir wünschen euch noch eine gute Reise.Harald&Birgit

Swenja
Vielen Dank! Wir sind jetzt mitten in den Vorbereitungen für eine 6-tägige Wanderung in Neuseeland, morgen gehts los.

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