The twenty-fifth week

Day 171-177

On March 25th We borrowed two Honda Wave S scooters with 100 CC in Thakhek. We first went for some breakfast and then set off on the “Loop”.

The first part of the route wasn't so nice, as trucks regularly roared past and kicked up dust on their way to the Vietnamese border. However, there were beautiful karst mountains to see here!

We visited the Tham Nang Aen cave. But now we have seen so many beautiful caves that we are spoiled. So it didn't impress us that much. Only one thing looked interesting: because there were so many stairs built into the cave, it looked a bit like Hogwarts!

We drove on. Soon we left the road that led to the border (bye bye, trucks!). The karst mountains became less and you could see many more rice fields. Some rice fields had been harvested and were dry and dusty brown. Some rice fields were freshly planted and were lush green.

There were also rice fields that were black. Black because they were burned down. The farmers do this to prepare the ground for the next rice season. That's why this season is also called "Burning season". This is actually forbidden by law. On the contrary, we have also heard that the term "burning season" comes from the fact that farmers, especially in the north, threw poppy seeds onto their fields after rice, causing the slopes to glow red as if they were burning.

We drove up some slopes and turning around was really fun!

We drove a lot along a reservoir. On the shore there is an old abandoned wooden ship that supposedly once housed a restaurant. We looked at it and walked around a bit. However, it is incredibly hot today. You literally get toasted. That's why we'd rather drive, because the wind will at least take some of the heat away.

We stopped in Thalang village. Here we stayed in an inn called Sabaidee (“Hello” in Lao). Although there is a river running below the inn where you can swim, the broken pieces, garbage and traces of oil ruined my desire to swim. Then it's better to have a cold shower.

In the evening there was BBQ. We met nice people, including two Dutch women who also drove the loop.

The next day we drove on. The next section, about 30 km, led through a national park. Accordingly, the beautiful giant trees rose out of the jungle to the right and left.

We drove with smaller stops to a place called "Cool Pool". A river rises at this point and the water is really wonderfully cool despite the high temperatures! You even almost felt a little cold.

We stayed here longer and met the two Dutch women from yesterday again. At around 3 p.m. we started the last part of the way. We drove to a village just before Kong Lor Cave.

Our butts were really hurting. Ivar couldn't decide what was worse: his butt, his hunger or his tiredness.

We ate something and slept around 9 p.m.

After we slept in, we had breakfast (with the nastiest coffee yet!) and then we visited Kong Lor Cave. A river runs through it, so you have to take a boat.

We were let out in two places and we were able to admire the stalactites and stalagmites! In some places the cave is huge! Like a cathedral! Maybe 100+ meters wide and also that high.

The cave is 7 km long and is by no means a dead end. The cave basically goes under a mountain and you come out on the other side. So the cave is more of a tunnel. On the other side is the village of Natane.

For a long time, the villages of Konglor and Natane knew nothing about each other. According to legend, when domesticated ducks emerged from the cave, Konglor villagers living downstream got an idea that someone else was there. According to another legend, objects from everyday life (e.g. pottery shards) were washed up. In order to visit each other or do trade, the villagers used to have to go over the mountain because no one dared to go into or through the cave.

The first crossing only took place in 1980. From then on, everything is transported via the river: goods, water buffalo, motorcycles...

Transport only works if the river allows it. In the rainy season the river can become so high that you cannot go through the cave. In fact, in places where the cave ceiling was slightly lower, entangled fishing nets could be seen.

So we went through the cave to Natane and ate soup here.

The boat brought us back and we set off. We drove the same route back to the Cool Pool. We stayed there overnight in a cute bungalow in the middle of nowhere.

You can really drive "The Loop" like a loop, but then you have to drive 30 km along a big, nasty road. So we decided to drive the most exciting route there and the same route back. So we drive a banana.

On March 28th We didn't leave until midday. We chatted with an Austrian who actually managed to bring his Vietnamese motorcycle to Laos (it has been banned since November 2023). Let me put it this way, his method was definitely not legal and he was also briefly chased by the Vietnamese border guards. But since he was on the scooter and the officers were on foot, he got away quicker. In any case, he's trying to get back across the border into Vietnam today. He jokingly says "maybe I'll make it, maybe I'll go to prison". We suspect that the Vietnamese border officials made a note when registering his passport. Something like that is certainly possible. So it might actually mean prison for him or it might be really expensive.

So we drove back towards Thakhek. There is one section through the national park that I particularly liked. Here we drove a little slower and also stopped to listen to the sounds of the jungle, the chirping of the birds, the choirs of insects and the bass of the trees

At one point we saw elephant kaka on the road and at another place large footprints leading down to a lake. So every now and then a wild elephant comes along!

We stayed again at the “Sabaidee Guesthouse”. This time we didn't take part in the BBQ, but went to the neighboring restaurant with a Brit. The Brit, in his mid-40s, has traveled a lot and is a diving instructor! So the whole evening was basically just about diving and his crazy travels. He also put one or two fleas in our ears.

The next day we drove the last section. We visited a small waterfall and swam in the water. Wonderful in the heat! There was a thunderstorm during the night and now it's not only warm but also humid!

Back in Thakhek we handed over our scooters and looked for accommodation. First, take a long cold shower! Afterwards we had to do laundry because everything was dirty.

The next day we drove to Savannakhet. The trip was “only” 3-4 hours long. But without air conditioning. We arrived hot and sweaty.

Savannakhet was once an important city in Indochina. The French colonial power had an important base here. They left behind beautiful old colonial buildings.

On Sunday, March 31st, I went on a bike ride to Dong Natad National Park. It was terribly warm! No, hot! But it was possible under the trees in the national park.

Although I didn't see any animals, I can also appreciate the great noises! I think I'm getting addicted to jungle sounds.

The way back was a little more strenuous. What can I say: I drank 3 liters of water and had to go to the toilet 0 times. All the water came out of my pores.

Ivar wanted to take a rest day. He first went for coffee and then lay around in bed.