Naipablaak: 28.06.2021
After we were lucky enough to get a rental car thanks to God (or rather the priest), we wanted to make the most of it!
So we headed straight to Parcul Național Cozia, south of Sibiu. The relatively small national park is located in the foothills of the Carpathian Mountains, making it a great place for shorter hikes. Perfect for us, since we could only pick up the rental car at 9 o'clock. Without a specific plan, we set off for Brezoi. Our hope of finding information about possible hiking tours there quickly evaporated. So we continue driving...Didn't Google mention something about a waterfall...? Indeed. We pass a sign that says 'Cascada Lotrişor'. So we quickly turn around and head for the parking lot. Oops, maybe we didn't consider that the park might charge entry fees. We only have 10 Lei (about 2€) in cash with us, instead of the 15 Lei it would have actually cost...embarrassing, but they let us in. The path to the waterfalls leads through the forest and along the river. It is well maintained and not too far. After about 30 minutes we reach the waterfall, so we continue to enjoy the path through the forest for another 1.5 km. On the way back, we also encounter several families with children who seem to be on an outing. The waterfall is also very impressive and beautiful. There are information boards along the way about local plants and animals - before the big hike tomorrow, we should read up on how to behave in the best way in case of encountering a bear. Just before reaching the parking lot, we sit down at one of the beautiful picnic spots. But we have to hurry because we can already hear thunder. Nevertheless, we still try our luck at the Turnu Monastery, from where we could do another short hike (according to Komoot and Google). The monastery looks rustic and is beautifully situated between the mountain and the Turnu River. The monks have created beautiful flower gardens. But since it is now starting to rain heavily, we decide to head back. After all, we still want to visit Sibiu.
On the way back, we are momentarily startled by our phones emitting shrill warning tones. The message, which became more understandable after a long translation effort, informs us of a thunderstorm warning. However, we are mostly spared. We actually can't explain how or why we received the message, but it's fascinating!
Finally. The excursion to the higher Carpathians, which we have been looking forward to so much, is here. To avoid the midday heat (and the thunderstorm), we set off early again. On the drive, we can already see the mountains, still covered with patches of snow. We were recommended the Transfăgărăşan by several people, a mountain road that leads to Lacul Bâlea. The road is very famous because it winds its way up the valley to the glacier lake in especially tight curves. Nicolae Ceauşescu was responsible for the construction of the road, which was intended to serve both military and tourist purposes. It is still a controversial project today, as it naturally destroyed a lot of nature. However, the road is currently closed due to winter, so we only make it to the parking lot of the Balea Cascada (about 1290 m above sea level). To our luck, as we later realize. On the way there, we are also delayed: by several hundred sheep being driven up the mountain. A funny spectacle. On komoot, we have chosen a route from the Balea Cascaden over a pass to the Balea Lake. On site, the route is indicated to take about 4-4.5 hours. At first, the initially well-trodden hiking trail leads us through the beautiful mountain forest along the mountain stream. We immediately feel incredibly comfortable and enjoy nature. We are completely alone, but suddenly we are barked at loudly by two dogs that also block our way. The man who is with them shoos them away, but they only calm down slowly. When passing by, we see the reason: several cute puppies are frolicking on a spread-out blanket on the forest floor - adorable. After about half of the distance, we emerge from the forest onto a wide meadow. The path becomes significantly more difficult to find. But to our joy, we keep coming across markers. The rocky mountains tower on the left and right. In the middle, the mountain stream meanders, and we continue to climb up to Lacul Doamnei, a small lake in the basin. It also becomes quite hot and strenuous here. The path becomes steeper and rockier. The slopes are beautifully covered with small pink flowers (shame on us, we don't know the name of the flowers...sorry). In addition to loud bird chirping, we also hear marmots squeaking - and we actually see them shortly afterward. A marmot constantly scurries over a snow field and then disappears back into its burrow. During one of our many breaks for a drink, Veronika also spots two chamois climbing up and down the slope. Babsi hopes for a long time that they are ibex - but they are not. Still cool.
We still have to cross a few larger snow fields for the last 200 meters of elevation, which we manage well. Once we reach the saddle (about 2210 m above sea level), we encounter the first hikers. A friendly mountaineer talks to us and briefly chats with us. From the saddle, we now also look down onto Lacul Bâlea. There are still skiers and snowboarders on the patches of snow. There are also several huts and tourist stalls around the lake and the road. We all agree: the path we chose was the best decision! So we have a picnic at the saddle, where we enjoy the view into the incredibly beautiful and tranquil valley we came from. As more and more clouds gather, we only briefly look around at the Balea Lake below and then take the cable car down. The weather already looks better below, and we decide to make use of the rental car to get to Sighişoara. On the short stretch of mountain road, something happens that we did not expect: we encounter a bear - yes, a real one!! It is lying comfortably by the roadside and looks relatively tired. Thank God we are in the car. If this had happened during the hike, we would have had to play dead - not a very reassuring thought. A mountain biker is actually riding up at the same time. Another car coming from the opposite direction stops in front of the bear to protect the cyclist as he passes by. It seems they know how to deal with it. Still very surprised by this experience, we continue on our way. The road towards Sighişoara leads us through rather flat hilly landscape, and we make slow progress because the road is full of potholes. The road was completely torn up for over 30 km. Nevertheless, we enjoy the drive as it takes us through rural Romania. Through smaller villages, where farmers are occasionally traveling with horses, and past older, unrenovated houses. Although this was not planned, we are still grateful for this insight.
The nature of Transylvania and the beauty of the Carpathian Mountains have completely overwhelmed us.
We are incredibly grateful to have experienced this. Romania (especially this part) will stay in our memories for a long time.