Հրատարակվել է: 03.03.2022
Some days don't go as planned, and that also applies to travel life. So far, we have been somewhat spoiled by the weather and a functioning schedule, not something to take for granted after 31 days of travel.
The plan was actually to explore the beautiful diving spots on the west side of the island. The day started off like a classic diving day. We arrived at the dive school near our accommodation at 07:30 and went through the administrative agendas to prepare our equipment. We were transport ready and headed towards the marina, which is about 20 minutes south of San Miguel. At the big marina, it wasn't initially easy to find our boat, but after some searching, our guide greeted us and we got ready for departure. Suddenly, the radio crackled and there was a discussion in Spanish. Port closed, no diving - now what?
We had to wait for about 25 minutes, and then it became clear that strong north winds were causing rough waves and a very rough sea, so the marina wasn't allowing boats to go out. We packed up and returned to the dive school. On-site, we found out that we definitely couldn't expect anything today, and tomorrow was also questionable. Back at our accommodation, Alex, the owner of our bed and breakfast, who is also a diver, confirmed that it's something you have to expect from time to time during this season, that boats can't go out. Fortunately, we were able to get some tips from Jimena (Alex's wife and co-owner) and Alex during a delayed breakfast on what else we can do on the island when the sea is not cooperating. At this point, we want to once again warmly recommend this great bed and breakfast from the two of them, who are very attentive and focused on their guests in the best sense. Unfortunately, this is not always the case in the "Gringo Land," as Mexicans themselves call the area around Cozumel and Cancun. Here's the link to their little paradise: https://www.tamarindobedandbreakfast.com/
In the immediate vicinity of our accommodation, we found the right car rental company and secured a Jeep Wrangler, which we named Justin Jeep, and packed a cooler bag, snorkel set, and towels in the trunk. We decided to do a small island (half) tour, including a longer stop in Punta Sur, where a small national park and beautiful beaches are located. But once again, driving on this trip, this time with a brute gearshift and somewhat stubborn driving behavior. We cruise along the west coast to Punta Sur, where you can visit some dream beaches on gravel roads after paying an entrance fee of about €13. The wind does blow strong from time to time, but in this case, the strong sun provides a cooling breeze. At least we got the front row loungers included in the entrance fee, so we enjoyed the cozy part of reading, snorkeling, and sunbathing.
Also included in the entrance fee and offered three times a day is a boat tour in the lagoon. Here, you learn a lot about the local ecosystem and the importance of the mangrove forests, which, among other things, help mitigate the impact of hurricanes that hit the island. Of course, numerous bird species also find their home in this hybrid water body of fresh and saltwater. But the "most dangerous" inhabitants are probably the crocodiles, of which there are about 400 in the Punta Sur National Park alone. During our boat ride, we were able to observe a total of five of them, mostly sunbathing.
After soaking up the sun for about 3.5 hours, we continued with a stop at the Celaráin Lighthouse. The 35-meter high tower can be climbed via a small staircase on the inside, which is definitely worth it as it provides an overview of the entire island. Along the east coast, there are beautiful untouched beaches and very few tourist facilities. At about the midpoint of the island, we cross the island back to San Miguel. A further drive to the north could only be done on unpaved gravel roads and is not allowed by car rental companies. In addition to some Mayan ruins, there is also a lighthouse and a lot of nature.
In the evening, we enjoyed fine food at https://www.azulmadera.mx/, where we were not only served good dishes but also treated to a small table magic show with flying €50 bills and entertaining card tricks. The only downside was the espresso, which was actually a small cup of filtered coffee, but well, first world problems... Of course, as the last stop, we had to go to the Thirsty Cougar again to get ourselves a frozen margarita "dessert".
The daily two:
Insight: The island of Cozumel is inhabited exclusively on the west coast, most notably in San Miguel. This is not only for economic reasons but also for another important reason. The east coast of the island is more prone to hurricanes than the western part. Although hurricanes that form in the Caribbean Sea and pass by Cozumel rarely hit Cozumel directly, bad experiences were had with Wilma in 2005, which resulted in relatively little infrastructure besides some beach bars on the east coast. More about the extent of Wilma 2005 -> (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Effects_of_Hurricane_Wilma_in_Mexico).
Moment of happiness: Watching deeply relaxed crocodiles sunbathing and relaxing, fortunately from a safe distance in the boat.