Kota Kinabalu - Arrived in Borneo

At 9pm, we arrive at our hostel in Kota Kinabalu, the capital of the state of Sabah. A Muslim woman in a white pickup truck was our Grab driver and gave us some tips on the way. We quickly check into the hostel, drop off our things, and head into the city. We walk along the sea until we reach the food market that we've heard about. Fruits, vegetables, and seafood. We stroll through the market, admire the fresh fish and seafood, and buy ourselves a portion of durian. After trying it, we quickly cover it back up. Disgusting stuff. But the little beggar boy is happy about it.
Then we head to one of the many bars where live music is playing and where you can sit directly by the water on wooden decks. Of all times, we crave alcohol after a long time and treat ourselves to a few beers and gin and tonic. Since it's Muslim here and alcohol is heavily taxed, it's disproportionately expensive. But sometimes it has to be. So we spend a few nice hours with our drinks and a portion of potato wedges on the promenade, until we walk back to the hostel and fall tired into our bunk beds.

After breakfast (unfortunately, in Malaysia, there is only toast and jam again, with luck peanut butter for breakfast), we grab a Grab and let it take us to our new hostel in the city center. There we quickly drop off our things and then make our way into the city. Strolling along the sea, checking out the Jetty prices, as we want to take a tour to the nearby islands tomorrow, and strolling in the wonderfully air-conditioned mall. There, we get something delicious to eat at the food court and then go to the Masjid Bandaraya. An impressive white mosque with blue domes and water pools around it. To enter the mosque, we have to cover ourselves. I am given a floor-length dress including a hijab and Max wears a white robe including a takke (head covering for Muslim men). When we see ourselves in the mirror, it is such a strange sight. We are not exactly thrilled, but we also want to have a look at the mosque, so we have to follow the rules. I don't understand how the women can stand it in that outfit. Not a breath of wind penetrates the layers of fabric and especially the cap-scarf combo must be quite warming. For me, mosques are quite mysterious and represent a different world. But when you see the Muslim men lounging in the prayer room, playing on their phones or just taking a nap, it takes away the mysterious and otherworldly aspect. As always, it was interesting to capture the atmosphere in such a building. After seeing the mosque from the outside and inside, we are glad to be able to take off the clothing again.

On TripAdvisor, we read about a Hungarian restaurant that is supposed to be very good and we just can't resist. So in the evening, we stray from Asian cuisine and I treat myself to chicken roulades stuffed with spinach and feta with mashed potatoes. Ah, simply delicious!

The next day, the planned island tour is on the agenda. Armed with water, sunscreen, and packed lunches, we make our way to the port. We still have some time before it starts, so we observe the other tourists. They are mostly Chinese and Koreans who are trying their best to fulfill every stereotype. Even though they are still in the safe waiting area of the port, ALL passengers already have their life jackets on. All of them! Except for the two other non-Asians. Equipped with water shoes, life jackets, and a silly smile, the selfie madness begins here already. After observing the spectacle, we are taken by speedboat to Manukan Island. The captain goes full speed and we fly over the water. At times, we tilt so much that the two passengers on the other side almost dip their heads in the water. It's really fun! That's why we arrived on the island so quickly. Equipped with goggles and a snorkel, we walk past the Chinese with their life jackets and turn towards the beach section that is not cordoned off with buoys, ropes, chains, and flags. The corals reach the beach and the water is so shallow that you automatically suck in your belly while diving over the corals because they are so close to you. Among them swim lots of colorful fish that you can almost touch because they are so close. The bottom is dotted with sea cucumbers and sea urchins with spikes that are about 30-40 cm long. When swimming over these gigantic sea urchins, you are especially grateful for the buoyancy in saltwater. Besides snorkeling, we spend time lying in the shade, reading. And we see monitor lizards! They seem to be a common sight on the island and we encounter them over and over again on the way to the toilet. The path also leads us past the 'main beach' where the Asian tourists frolic in the shade or in full gear in the water. This sight, I can't put it into words. Adult men grab their life jackets and snorkel masks, run wobbly into the water, drop into the water with their bellies first, wave and kick around, which is supposed to represent swimming movements, to go snorkeling. In knee-deep water. On sand. Why? Why am I wearing a life jacket in knee-deep, cordoned off water? The man is practically lying on the ground with his belly. And what are you snorkeling for in the sand? No one from them dares to venture to the corals at the other end of the beach.
At half past 1, our boat picks us up and takes us to another island. Sapi island is significantly smaller, so we decide not to go to the beach at all, but to walk around the island instead. However, we did not expect it to be so long and steep uphill. We really struggle with our flip-flops. We were thinking more of a relaxed walk along the beach. But after a little less than an hour, we are rewarded with a beautiful view. At the cliffs, there is finally an unbushed spot, which gives us a great view over parts of the island, the sea, and other islands. It's a really nice spot :-)

On the way back, we pass a few beaches where there is no one. Just a lot of hermit crabs that are much larger than in Myanmar. So Max is busy for a while and I go for a swim :-D

Since the last boat leaves at 4 o'clock, we really have to hurry now and climb over rocks or wade through water until we have circled the island and are back at the main beach. Then we already get on the boat and return to the mainland (as far as you can speak of mainland in Borneo).

After freshening up at the hostel, we go to the fish market on the promenade in the evening and have fresh fish (red snapper) and squid grilled. Sooo delicious!

The next morning, we quickly gobble down a hostel breakfast and then have ourselves driven to the bus station. At half past 8, we take the bus to Sepilok, a village in the jungle that is 300km (6 hours drive) away.