From Carriacou to Grenada

Wednesday, 01.01.2020

A lot was done today. In the morning, I did laundry and yoga, then we precooked leftovers for the next few days (pasta, rice, lentils) and prepared the boat. I could barely fit my things in my backpack. I somehow have too much, but I don't know what I could leave behind. But all the warm and long clothes that I wore while traveling had to be packed as well. Afterwards, I took a shower along with the clothes I was wearing. Everything was sweaty. The shower here can only be on or off, all the same temperature: pleasantly cool. My shirt and pants were dry on my body within a short time. What I'm trying to say is: it's hot.

In the morning and evening, I always have a little bit of energy, but as soon as 9 o'clock is over, I just want to lie around in the windy shade. Mosquitoes and sand fleas also keep us busy. I do have expensive, good mosquito repellent with me, which should only be applied once a day (with 50% DEET), but after 1-2 hours, you can feel that the effect is already fading. Other than that, everything is relaxed, I don't think there is any other state here on the island.

Thursday, 02.01.2020

In the morning, there was still some hustle and bustle when Birgit, Luna, and Azzurra left. Shortly afterwards, Michi picked us up, whom we met through Angie, a friend of Birgit's. Actually, we were planning to take the ferry to Grenada tomorrow, but as luck would have it, Michi is sailing to Grenada tomorrow and still needs crew. Angie was supposed to help him, but she doesn't have time after all. So he picks us up with his huge dinghy and we have a place to sleep for the night and a ride. Michi's sailboat has a broken engine, and he will get a new one in Grenada. He also had two strokes, which he has recovered from very well, but he is still a bit limited. He is a super friendly, talkative guy from Munich, who has a lot of interesting stories to tell. His dog Gremlin is with him, always lying around relaxed and wanting to be scratched.

During the day, we went shopping with Michi and then prepared the ship and sails for tomorrow's departure. Michi's boat is a bit larger than Birgit's and much more spacious inside. It is designed for four people and is only used by one or two. It has a large kitchen with four burners, and it has everything from a printer to a wood stove to a washing machine. There are many corners and places where you can sit or lie down comfortably. I missed that on the Azzurra.

In the afternoon, Michi showed us the mangroves. Some of them were cut down for a new harbor, but there is still a large basin. The mangrove trees line a stretch of coastline, creating a kind of lake that you can sail into. There you are very well protected from wind and waves, which is why the boats are "parked" in the mangroves when there is a hurricane warning, for example. The water is completely calm between the light green trees, whose branches hang down into the water to form additional roots. We even got out and climbed on the roots for a while until we reached the open sea on the other side. This is another natural wonder. Unfortunately, no one had a camera with them.

In the evening, we went to the restaurant "Lambi Queen" and had pizza and other food with Angie and Gus. Lambi is the meat of the large conch, whose beautiful shells are either sold to tourists or used as building material. Angie, also from Munich, lives on her boat here, and Gus is from Dominica and Birgit's friend. There are several expats passing by who stay longer in the port, everyone knows each other. Most of them stop for a short chat. Usually, there is also a lot of beer and rum flowing here, but everyone is holding back because of tomorrow's departure.

Later, Nina and I went for a walk, and I enjoyed the quiet time very much. For me, it is very exhausting to constantly be around people and always have to listen to someone or tell something. It's fine with two people, we only talk when we feel like it, and sometimes we just stay silent. But as soon as there are more people, someone is always talking. There is no time left for thinking at all. And I notice that because I am totally inattentive. I sit slouched, overeat myself, and don't get enough exercise. But I usually only notice this when I get a little distance from the group. After all, I really want to use the journey for reflection and mindfulness, so I'm looking forward to arriving at a place where I can be alone sometimes.

Interestingly, I have found that life here on Carriacou would not be for me in the long run. Everything is slow and sluggish, hardly anyone has the energy to really tackle something, and therefore there is not much to do. You only do the necessary things, also because of the heat, and the rest of the time is spent waiting for something. At least I'm waiting, the others seem to have less of a problem with doing nothing. But I'm looking forward, for example, to a mountain village in the Andes or a farm, where there is always something to do. Life here is too inactive for me. I want to move on.

Friday, 03.01.2020

We had a very relaxed passage to Grenada with Michi, sailing only. In the ports, we were helped with maneuvering by many helpful people, most of whom are also expats. In the evening, we cooked leftovers together and enjoyed a nightcap while watching the beautiful sunset in Benji Bay. Before going to bed, we had a deep and meaningful conversation about life and the world. It was really a cool group with interesting, sometimes controversial opinions and lots of inspirations.

Saturday, 04.01.2020

After getting up, I jumped into the water and did some work. Michi is letting us stay here for free and driving us around, so we help out on the boat. I scrubbed algae and mussels off the swim ladder with a wire brush and a spatula, while the guys cleaned and tidied up on deck and Nina was below deck with Michi. Then I wanted to rinse off with salt water, but we actually emptied Michi's water tanks. It's a difference when you manage things alone or with five people. But thankfully, neighbors brought jerry cans during the morning, which we could fill up at the marina. We met these neighbors at the hash yesterday, they come from a town 10km from where I'm from. The world is big, and at the same time, very, very small.

In the afternoon, we took the dinghy to Hog Island, a small island that attracts fairly wealthy day-trippers or longer-term yachties. There was live music and cool locals who gave us some of their soup. Separate food was cooked for the tourists. In the evening, we had pasta with tomato sauce again and enjoyed a cozy movie night (actually Love).

I'm starting to feel a bit trapped and inflexible on the boat because I can't go on my own. I also want to reach a destination. So, on one hand, I long for my own home, but I also want to continue experiencing how other people live in different cultures. A little contradiction.

Sunday, 05.01.2020

After waking up, I jumped into the water again and did some work. Michi is letting us stay here for free and driving us around, so we help out on the boat. I scrubbed algae and mussels off the swim ladder with a wire brush and a spatula, while the guys cleaned and tidied up on deck and Nina was below deck with Michi. Then I wanted to rinse off with salt water, but we actually emptied Michi's water tanks. It's a difference when you manage things alone or with five people. But thankfully, neighbors brought jerry cans during the morning, which we could fill up at the marina. We met these neighbors at the hash yesterday, they come from a town 10km from where I'm from. The world is big, and at the same time, very, very small.

In the afternoon, we took the dinghy to Hog Island, a small island that attracts fairly wealthy day-trippers or longer-term yachties. There was live music and cool locals who gave us some of their soup. Separate food was cooked for the tourists. In the evening, we had pasta with tomato sauce again and enjoyed a cozy movie night (actually Love).

I'm starting to feel a bit trapped and inflexible on the boat because I can't go on my own. I also want to reach a destination. So, on one hand, I long for my own home, but I also want to continue experiencing how other people live in different cultures. A little contradiction.

Monday, 06.01.2020

In the morning, we went 'on the net,' which means we broadcasted a message over the local radio network about our search for a ride. Unfortunately, we didn't receive any feedback. We also haven't heard anything on Facebook, even though we posted in at least 5 groups.

Afterwards, Nina and I paddled to the dock in the dinghy and bought groceries and had breakfast on the boat. Then we went to see Mike and Julie, who live and work on the Flying Buzzard. It's an old, rusty tugboat from the 60s that they sailed over here from England. They showed us the ship, it was almost like a museum. Back with Michi, we cooked lunch and went back to Hog Island to take a walk with Gremlin. There are cows on the island, but we didn't see them.

Later, Michi took us to the dock with all our luggage in the big dinghy, and we took two buses to the city to Sarah's place in Grand Anse. She has a really beautiful apartment in a rather wealthy area, with a hammock on the terrace and a view of the sea for the sunset. Sarah is from Germany but has been living and working here on Grenada for over a year. She is extremely nice and welcomed us very warmly, we immediately felt at home. There was another couch surfer with the same travel route as us. However, she couldn't find a way to continue her journey by boat, so she's flying to South America tomorrow.

Tuesday, 07.01.2020

After breakfast, we all walked to the harbor and made posters along the way that we want to hang up in the marinas. At the end of the day, we only hung up two posters, but we spoke to a lot of people. We also visited all the harbor and tourist offices, the import/export stores, and the yacht club. It was quite exhausting. The conclusion is that we are in the wrong place at the wrong time. However, we found out that three cargo ships sail to Trinidad every Tuesday and could possibly take us along. But it's too spontaneous for today. To enter Trinidad, you need proof of departure, for example, a return flight ticket.

The rest of the day was filled with shopping, cooking, chatting, researching, and baking a cake. After that, everyone fell into bed or on the couch/air mattress, completely exhausted.

I am currently in a constant state of indulgence, I am always eating. It is surprisingly difficult to get local products here. Fresh fruit and vegetables are expensive and mostly flown in from far away, and most other things are imported as well. The cost of living seems to be relatively high. There is a big gap between locals and foreigners when it comes to salary and living standards. The university is the largest employer on the island, most of the professors are from outside.