Of focus, will and perseverance. Or: What (my) work (maybe) has to do with surfing

I have often been able to spend time in regions that are known for surfing. Neither in New Zealand, nor in the USA, during my first stay in Australia five years ago, nor on the Portuguese west coast did I feel encouraged to learn to surf myself. Even the Munich Eisbachwelle couldn't change that.

I watch and watch people surfing from time to time, but after a while it becomes uninteresting. I also like going into the water, swimming, playing with the waves. But surfing yourself?

“That’s just what you do when you’re in places like this,” I heard often.

“Too touristy. Just that kind of hype. … doesn’t irritate me,”

I thought.

But now I live surrounded by water. Bondi Beach is less than half an hour's walk away, just down the road. On some walk over the last few months I thought it would be fun and yes, symbolic to take a surfing lesson on December 31st. Surfing from the old year into the new year, perfect wave and all. I had to smile at the first thought. That would be kind of cool, at least a nice anecdote.

Mm.

Mega.

Laugh out loud.

I'll do it!

December 31, 2023,

6:30 a.m. in the morning.

It's windy, overcast.

Changing clothes and squeezing into a wetsuit is just part of it; - My goodness! - Even before I'm in, I wonder whether I'll ever get out again; I have the thought that sometimes it is or can be like that with jobs, with working life: it's difficult to get in, but it's okay, somehow - and you're happy when you finally get in, but that alone was pretty hard work.

And at the same time you're wondering how you're ever going to get out of there

- or want to, because once you're inside, it's nice and warm and cozy, do you really want to take on the work of peeling yourself out again - even if it sometimes pinches and is a bit too tight, somehow?

“Ok, today is rough, rough, but it’ll be okay!” laughs Marie from Barcelona. She is the surf instructor, short, not 160, tanned, bleached hair, obviously in a positive mood and moved her place of work to Australia a few months ago.

The waves don't seem that big to me today, okay, just take note of Marie's comment and think "Hmm, that's right, let's say flat". In general, I find waves impressive. I can sit by the open sea for a long time and just look, watch the waves. They are so powerful, especially by the ocean. Spray, wind, loud roaring waves. In my opinion, what I see on December 31st at Bondi is rather calm, especially in comparison to many other days that I have been here.

A little later in the water with a surfboard it seems quite different to me. The waves are "suddenly" very big, the current is strong and just getting to the place where we start surfing, up to our waist in the water, is strenuous and requires a lot of strength.

After a few dry runs we know the sequence - theoretically, now in the water. The wave grabs the board, grabs me and in just a fraction of a second, I try to stand on the board - a kind of yoga sequence: small cobra, big cobra, downward dog, jumping into a standing position, on my knees stay, arms up; Keep the balance; Don't forget to look ahead; Breathe.

Theoretically perhaps clear(er),

practically not.

“Always look forward, never down!”, “Focus!” - Marie is a good teacher, motivates, corrects, challenges. I don't know how much water I drank, had salt water in my nose, eyes, ears, how many times I fell off the board, sometimes arms first, then feet, sometimes on my butt.

I couldn't stop the first few times (of course); Still, every time I jump out of the water, swim back, a big smile. That's really cool.

“If you're loving it today, you'll always come back!” - “If you love it today, you'll keep coming back!” says Marie during surfing lesson #1 with rough conditions on Bondi Beach, December 31, 2023.

There are four of us, two girls had fun, but left the water after half the hour. You're knocked out and want a break. Me too, absolutely, I'm certainly not at my best level in terms of sport at the moment; but swim back. That's an awesome feeling. These waves!

How the current moves you forward, the waves can be felt on your body, even more so in your body, salt water in your eyes and even more so in your nose and mouth, so that it scratches your throat. Falling that doesn't hurt, diving through big waves, being surprised by waves, the board is gone, but you can still feel it on your foot, the board is well connected to your body, big wave, it's loud, water in the Ears, fighting against the current. Take a breath and laugh. “You’re infected!” – “You are infected”, absolutely, Marie is right.

I don't know when was the last time I had a workout like this, some times I can barely manage to push myself up onto the board, I've always had a lack of arm muscles and even days later I notice that my body reminds me of that I made very unknown movements.

And despite that, or perhaps because of that: that was cool! I love watching the waves from the shore, how they come, how they break, how the spray behind them flies away loudly and quietly, often so glamorously, somehow. In the water, glamorous is not the right word. Powerful, strong, often powerful, are more apt descriptions.

Marie continues to instruct us, wait for a few larger waves, then smaller ones again, jump on the board, align your feet, wait a moment, basically the yoga sequence, look up, forward, never on your feet, don't put your knees on the board, jump; and if you're lucky, you'll stand.

Back again.

And repeat.

Learn to read waves, understand currents - or at least want to understand them, then the wave comes, small, large cobra, downward dog, jump on the board, fall off, swallow water.

So cool!

Augustin from Argentina - surf instructor of the lesson no. 4: “It's all about commitment! You can do it! Tell it yourself, believe it - yourself!” – “It’s about determination! You can do it! Tell yourself, believe it yourself!"

Surfing lesson #3 was frustrating, the conditions at the other beach in Maroubra were a little rougher. Added to this was paddling yourself, no more holding on; adjust more waves yourself. I often felt lost, either too late or too early or I couldn't even keep myself on the board. Phew!

Surfing lesson 4: Augustin encourages us right from the start that the conditions are very good today. The waves look the same to me. What do the surfers see that I don't recognize?

“This is going to be really good!” , Augustin emphasizes several times. I just believe him. It's 7 a.m. and the sun is shining. It's really a great morning, hardly any clouds, sun, 24 degrees, light wind. Augustin is full of energy and obviously really likes his job - it's contagious. The water, the waves and the surfing, the sun, that seems to relax and do people good. Wet hair, wet hat and a big smile. Augustin almost preaches in a but at the same time very relaxed way: surfing is above all a thing in the head. “Always look forward. Your feet, your head know what to do.” I'm not so sure, but if he says that! Falling is fun, getting up is even more fun and over time you can do (even) more.

Back again, to where the good waves are, not swimming against the current, but learning to read waves and using the power of the current to get where I want to go with the board.

“Jump on.” - Jump up!

Wave is coming - paddling!

"Let's go!" - Here we go!"

A lot to learn, outside of your comfort zone – and at the same time or precisely because of that: really good!