Hoʻopuka ʻia: 01.10.2019
Right after our arrival, I went to the immigration office. However, I was denied entry. One can only enter with long pants and sturdy shoes, good to know, so I will try again tomorrow. First, I applied for my new passport at the German embassy, the 100€ were quickly paid and everything went smoothly. Unfortunately, the extension of the visa did not work out, as the local authorities need at least 4 working days. I don't want to stay here for that long, especially since the weekend would have been included. In general, everything is very far apart here and there is not much to see. So, one day with Thomas, we went to visit all the "sights" and spent the other day more or less in the hotel. In the evening, we tried grilled snake (tastes a bit like chicken), and then we said goodbye. I hope we will meet again, for a diving trip together or another scooter ride.
The next evening, I surprised Jessi at the airport, as she thought I would arrive in Jakarta the next day, it worked out quite well :)
Since the 17th of July is Independence Day in Indonesia, we watched some festivities. The most interesting one was a competition in which groups of 5 people had to climb up a slippery, oiled log. The prizes, which were hanging at the top of the log, could of course be kept by the respective groups.
I was already used to taking photos with Indonesians several times a day in Sumatra, but what happened then was really crazy. We were traveling with a group of Europeans, two of them taller than two meters. In a park, we were asked again if they could take a photo of us and the two "giants". Of course, shortly afterwards, the next group asked, and then more people came. After a few minutes, a line formed around us and we eventually had to stop, otherwise we would still be there today. It was a funny experience. The next day, we took an early morning train to Yogyakarta, I was glad to finally leave Jakarta.
Yogyakarta is a small Indonesian city with around 500,000 inhabitants. In the nice old town with some palaces and sights, 'Jogja' as it is called, actually gives the impression of a small town. We decided to visit only one of the two major temples in the area, as they each cost 25€ admission. Although they are World Heritage sites, I find the admission price simply too high. In addition, Indonesians only pay 4€...
The next day, we tried to find a waterfall, but due to the drought, it was a futile endeavor. So, we visited the water palace in the old town and took the train east in the evening.
The next three days were all impressive in their own way, each day we witnessed an absolutely stunning natural spectacle. On the first day, after our 7-hour train ride, we continued with a 2-hour car ride to Tumpak Sewu waterfall. What can I say?! The most impressive waterfall I have seen so far, but the photos speak for themselves!
Afterwards, we drove back by car for 3 hours and then another 2 hours by bus to Mount Bromo. We actually wanted to leave early the next morning to have a relaxed tour, but we were so tired that we didn't leave until 12 o'clock, about 3 hours later than planned. After having to take a private taxi in order not to lose more time, we went to the viewpoint of a neighboring volcano. Here too, the landscape was absolutely impressive. Unfortunately, we didn't have enough time to climb to the crater of Bromo itself, but since I had already been on a volcano and was going to Mount Ijen the next day, it was not a big deal. Plus, we were well-rested, which would pay off later.
In the evening, we continued by bus towards Banyuwangi, from where you can take a ferry to Bali as well as a scooter to Mount Ijen. The bus ride was supposed to take 4 hours. Indonesian 4 hours, as it turned out. So, we didn't arrive at our accommodation until 2 am instead of 11 pm.
We took it easy the next day to be fit in the evening. After considering placing a bet at a "pigeon race," I left it to the professionals.
In the evening, it started to rain, and I thought we wouldn't be able to start our tour. Luckily, we did it anyway! At 11 pm, we went on the scooter with enough water, a sweater, and a raincoat to Mount Ijen. After a few kilometers, it started to rain, of course, and when the sulfur workers overtook us wearing raincoats, rain pants, and boots, we thought about turning back. But since it was only drizzling, we continued through the dark rainforest, and the rain made me very cold very quickly. After a few kilometers, the rain suddenly stopped, and we had a clear view of the starry sky. We were already above the clouds... later, we were told that it hadn't rained on the summit for 4 months.
At the entrance, we quickly paid the 10€ and waited briefly until the path was cleared. Exactly at 2 o'clock, we started or rather sprinted. Normally, the path should take 2 hours, but it took us only one hour, and although it was very exhausting, there was a good reason to go so fast! We went down to the crater and were completely alone for about 20 minutes, could look at the blue flames (which I expected to be much bigger), and see the sulfur columns.
The yellow smoke was pungent, and despite the masks, I coughed and my eyes started to tear. Of course, I still wanted to get closer to the flames... When I was almost there, the wind suddenly changed direction, and I found myself in a dense cloud of sulfur. Breathing became harder and harder, I knelt down, closed my eyes, and tried to stay calm. Next to me, two people panicked and fell when they tried to get out of the fog. After two or three minutes, I couldn't stand it anymore and tried to feel my way back, it worked so far until I noticed that it went 3 meters down next to me, lucky escape! The cough that plagued me for a few days was worth it though! It is quite rough that the sulfur workers go down here every day, and accordingly, their life expectancy is only 50 years...
When I looked up after a while, I could hardly believe it. Hundreds of flashlights were winding their way down the path into the crater. Some guides led the tourists by hand down the crater, while others were taken to the crater by a cart(!) which is normally used for sulfur transport. The way back was just annoying because so many people were coming towards us that we had to wait several minutes at narrow passages until it was possible to continue. Once we reached the top, we were the first again, could find a great spot away from the crowds, and enjoy the sunrise. The summit was still above the dense cloud cover, absolutely impressive! Again, proof that every weather has its advantages and disadvantages. Whether rainy or dry season, blue sky or fog, every weather has its beautiful sides (except at home, of course).
On Flores, we were supposed to go diving, but since 3 dives cost 140€, which is well above my budget, I hesitated a bit too long and it was no longer possible for me to go diving the next day. In the end, I was quite lucky, as the boat sank! Luckily for Thomas, the boat reached the mainland shortly before it sank. So, everyone could be saved, only Thomas's cell phones and ID didn't survive. One crew member suffered carbon monoxide poisoning, repeatedly lost consciousness, and had to go to the hospital. It's unimaginable what would have happened if the boat had sunk 15 minutes earlier on the open sea. I'm glad I hesitated for too long and still have my passport and my cell phone.
Afterwards, our journey continued, and I reached the furthest point of my trip from home. The end, from here on, I slowly make my way back west. The island of Flores and the cities mentioned are completely undeveloped for tourism. So, the days can be spent easily with some dives at secluded beaches and small hikes to volcanoes. Back in Bali, I had to go to the embassy and the immigration office again to pick up my new passport and get it registered. I still don't have a better impression of Bali. Only the north is worth a visit. In Tulamben and generally in the north, you can still avoid the crowds of tourists. With some dives and a game of Bali United, my time in Indonesia ended after 2 months. I'm looking forward to a new country, different food, and new impressions. Taiwan, here I come!