Don Curry and the Pillar Monastery

Don Curry had been using his time in Borjomi to explore sights that were not included in his original itinerary. The visit to Borjomi was not even planned, as he would have driven past the city without stopping. However, thanks to the Azerbaijani government, things had turned out differently.

Today, Don Curry wanted to prioritize two goals from his original itinerary in order to lighten the schedule for later days. Both destinations were only 100 km away from Borjomi, but given Georgia's mountainous terrain and road conditions, it would make for a good day trip. Along the way, Don Curry noticed that road conditions were being greatly improved in many areas. This would be beneficial for future travelers, but for him, it meant driving through Georgian construction sites.

His first destination was the so-called Katskhi Pillar, a truly unique structure. On the way there, he saw the future route of the highway for dozens of kilometers. Many tunnels had already been completed, but the viaducts leading to the tunnels were still under construction. Then he ventured into the mountainous region north of the highway, where winding roads predominated. After one of the curves, Xerra suddenly found herself in the middle of a herd of cows that had gathered on the road. The cows completely ignored his frantic honking. So, he had to navigate through the animals with caution, trying not to hit them. Gradually, more and more rocks began to dominate the landscape. And then Don Curry saw it - the Katskhi Pillar: a 40-meter-high solitary rock column with a church and a house on top.

Don Curry is familiar with the Meteora Monasteries in Greece and the Athos Monasteries in the Republic of Mount Athos, but this mini-monastery on a rock pillar is truly unique worldwide. It has been inhabited again for a few years - by a single monk. There is no more space up there. A 40-meter-high metal ladder serves as the only access. A winch is used for transporting materials and food. Until a few years ago, it was not uncommon for daring men without a fear of heights to climb up the ladder, but due to the increasing popularity of the monastery, the hermit on the summit has now prohibited it. Only Orthodox monks are allowed to visit the top. Although there are still no signs pointing to the monastery today, Don Curry experienced the site to be crowded with a large group of children and their supervisors after climbing to the base of the rock pillar. He used the time to visit the museum, which showcases photos of the restoration of the Pillar Monastery as well as artifacts from its medieval history. In addition, the small church at the foot of the rock pillar is worth a visit, as it is adorned with modern and tasteful paintings.

Don Curry discovered another remarkable church in the nearby village of Katskhi. Within a walled churchyard stands a three-story church with an octagonal floor plan. Expressive reliefs adorn the exterior and interior walls of the building. In contrast, the actual church interior has faded with its contemporary mass-produced icons.

A few kilometers further lies the former mining town of Chiatura. It is located in a rocky valley that once housed the mines. However, the town's glorious days are long gone. In the past, several cable cars provided fast transportation between the districts in the valley and the surrounding heights. Today, the cable car stations rust away. Colorful high-rise buildings of Soviet architecture, also known as panel buildings, tower everywhere, and at the same time, the decay of the infrastructure becomes morbidly apparent. In his latest travel guide - edition 2023/24 - there were two restaurant recommendations for Chiatura. Since it was lunchtime, Don Curry visited both of them. However, both seemed to be permanently closed. Nearby, Don Curry found the restaurant 'Moniopol,' which was also closed. He was able to enter the restaurant right next door, but it was made very clear to him that there would be no food available now. In Chiatura, Don Curry also witnessed a political demonstration in which hundreds of people participated. They peacefully marched through the city, accompanied by a large police presence. Unfortunately, Don Curry could not understand what it was about, but the mere possibility of such a peaceful mass protest seemed to him as a positive sign for democracy in Georgia.

Hungry, he returned to Borjomi. Hungry after the pleasant experience of the previous evening, he returned to 'My House.' The young waitress from yesterday greeted him happily, and Don Curry took the same seat as yesterday. Somehow, he had become a regular customer. Once again, he ordered two classics of Georgian cuisine: the beef stew Kharcho and the chicken stew Chakhokhbili, which he had already tried at the 'Metropol' yesterday; served with bread and a Kazbegi beer. The flavorful Kharcho impressed him again, while the Chakhokhbili at 'My House' consisted of real tomato pieces, onions, and chicken breast in hot broth, and it played in a completely different league than the failed attempt at the train station restaurant. Moreover, the price of just €6 was only half of what the 'Metropol' had charged. More than satisfied, Don Curry returned to his vacation rental, and for the first time, it didn't rain in Borjomi in the evening.

Don Curry knew that he would return to his original program tomorrow...