Route 62 & Winelands South Africa

From George, we drive in the still pouring rain to Route 62. Unfortunately, we can't see anything from the originally picturesque Outeniqua Pass because of the thick fog. A bit disillusioned because we didn't have the great view, we arrive in Oudtshoorn. It is raining more and more, and we consider how to escape the weather best. The well-known caves 'Cango Caves' in this region seem to be a good place for that.

The huge cave system extends over several kilometers underground. Only a relatively small part of it is accessible to visitors so as not to disturb the natural ecosystem. The paths on the standard tour are very well-developed, and the huge stalagmites and stalactites are impressively illuminated. There are also large halls that were previously used for concerts. But there is also an adventure route where you have to crawl and climb through narrow rock crevices. Since we have already had this experience in Bolivia, we decide to skip it this time.

Due to the rain, the Swartberg Pass to Prince Albert, which we definitely want to drive, is unfortunately closed today. So we head back to Oudtshoorn. Along the way, we pass tobacco and olive plantations.

On the way back, we visit Cango Ostrich Farm, one of the many ostrich farms for which Oudtshoorn has been known for decades. Where many ostriches used to be bred, you can now learn everything about the 75 km/h fast animals. They are the fastest animals on two legs. Unlike other birds, ostriches have red, very lean meat and a leather skin. The products derived from them account for a whole 7% of South Africa's GDP.

Here we get up close to the ostriches. It's nice, but also a bit eerie when they look at you with their huge eyes and move their heads suddenly. We also get to feed the ostriches and in return, we receive a free 'neck massage' from them. When you hold the bucket in front of you and then move backward towards the ostriches, they try to reach around your shoulders with their long necks to get to the feed and pick the grains out of the bucket at lightning speed. A strange and funny experience!

In the evening, we try the regional specialties at a restaurant. There's Bobotie (a casserole with minced meat, spices like cinnamon, curry, and turmeric, tomatoes, and peaches, served with spiced rice) and, of course, ostrich steak with various side dishes. Both are really delicious and highly recommended.

The next day, luckily, it's no longer raining, and we start our day with a great breakfast buffet in a private game reserve. Pro tip: You don't have to pay an entrance fee to the park if you only come for breakfast, but you can observe hippos directly from a jetty on the lake.

Then we finally drive to the Swartberg Pass. It goes up and down the mountain on numerous switchbacks, accompanied by beautiful views of the surrounding mountains and valleys. 

Various types of beautiful Protea flowers shine by the wayside. Then the dirt road leads through deep gorges, along a small stream that flooded everything here just a day before.

Prince Albert, where the Swartberg Pass ends, is a small town on the edge of the Karoo Desert, with nice cafes, small galleries, and cute houses. In a small café (Lazy Lizard) with a garden and a local shop, we have some food, and another strong thunderstorm starts... Better continue quickly back over the Meiringspoort Pass before everything floods again. Along the way, we pass several small waterfalls that would invite you to swim in good weather. But it's too cold for us today. 

Normally, it hardly ever rains here in the Karoo Desert, and it can get as hot as 40°C in the shade. The locals are therefore very happy about the cooling and the rain.

Passing Oudtshoorn, we continue on Route 62. On the recommendation of our hostess in Oudtshoorn, we book a small caravan on a campsite at Warmwaterberg Spa for the next night. It is located right by natural hot springs that supply several swimming pools with different hot water temperatures. The last 2 kilometers are once again on a gravel road, and it's already getting dark. A Coca-Cola truck seems to have had trouble with the slight incline to the campsite, as it is stuck on the side of the road. But help is already on the way. Just in time, we arrive to have something to eat in the restaurant before load shedding once again cuts off the power... And then it's time to get into our swimwear! In the dark and without another soul, we comfortably spend some time in the warm water of the springs. Above us, only the stars and the bright moon. Simply wonderful!

We have our first coffee of the next day at Ronnie's Sex Shop, just a few kilometers from the campsite. The small tavern, which used to be called simply Ronnie's Shop and is relatively lonely on Route 62, became famous when Ronnie's friends had the fun of painting the little word 'Sex' on the facade. The bar became a cult, and now there are pictures, bras, student IDs, police badges, and much more hanging on the walls.

Passing many fruit plantations, cheese factories, and charming small towns, we drive along Route 62 until we reach Franschhoek. We just catch the last historic wine tram, which takes you from winery to winery.

At three different wineries, we get to taste 4-6 wines each, accompanied by delicious cheese or selected chocolates. You have to give it to the South Africans: they know how to make wine! Unlike in Bolivia, where one wine was good and the others were just sweet, here you can really enjoy every wine and have a fantastic selection at good prices.

We spend the night on a vineyard in Paarl with a beautiful garden surrounded by huge olive plantations. Unfortunately, it's raining heavily again, so we can't really enjoy the beautiful landscape. Thanks to load shedding, our laundry is once again not drying because the dryer naturally shuts off without power.

The next morning, it takes forever for our laundry to be ready, so we leave relatively late. We chat with the owner of the farm for a bit, who, like everyone here in South Africa, is very nice and open-minded. Then we continue to our last destination in South Africa before heading back to Johannesburg: off to Cape Town!