Tricase - Experiences at the southernmost end of Apulia (Stop 24)

We sleep incredibly well at Casa Yasmin. A cold shower in the morning feels really good after the long ferry rides. Rested, refreshed, and full of joy that Yasmin has one more day for us, we set off in her Fiat towards the port. We have to take a detour because the direct road is one-way in the opposite direction during the summer. At the port of Tricase Porto, we sit down in a bar and have the best coffee since we started our trip. And it's a special one too: the Cafè leccese is a coffee specialty from Salento, which is also enjoyed in other parts of Apulia. Almond syrup is poured into a glass with ice cubes, and then the espresso is slowly poured over it. We were told that it is made with almond milk, so we actually expected a kind of cold cappuccino with almond milk. But there is no milky color, and it is quite sweet, but delicious! We are especially surprised by the sweetness, as it was specifically mentioned that no sugar is added. Yasmin asks us several times if we don't know almond milk, it's so sweet. We can only say that we know it differently, not quite as sweet. We only find out about the syrup later. Along with our coffee experience, we have croissants and pasticciotti. Pasticciotto is a shortcrust pastry that can be filled with various creams (pistachio is particularly delicious). This pastry is also typical for the Salento region around Lecce. While enjoying our breakfast, we can already watch some people swimming in the harbor area. They must all be early birds. At least we haven't seen that in Greece, where no one would go swimming before 12 o'clock.

Yasmin wants to show us various beautiful spots along the coast, and we want to go swimming because - who would have guessed - it's getting quite hot again. In the supermarket next door, we get 3 panini with burrata and tomatoes for the day. We drive along the Strada Provinciale delle Terme Salentine until we reach Porto Miggiano. The road almost constantly follows the steep coastline, from one bay to the next. Yasmin points out some beautiful and interesting bays, which often have caves as well. She explains that in this region, there are very few above-ground rivers due to the water-permeable soil layers. The water seeps and flows underground towards the sea. At the mouth, the rivers form caves that you can swim into if you can handle cold water. The most famous example of such a bay is Aquaviva. But there are also other caves where the water has a pleasant temperature.

Even in Porto Miggiano, where we go swimming for the first time, there is a small cave passage that you can swim through. From the parking lot, we first go to the edge of the cliffs to take a look down. WOW. The water is so clear that you can see the bottom of the entire bay. In the relatively narrow bay, the water is also very calm, which people obviously appreciate, as it's quite crowded. We descend to the bathing area via a narrow staircase along the cliffs. The bathers spread out on the larger rocks, a built plateau, and the water. We also quickly put our things down because we can't wait to get into the cool water. You have to climb a little on the slippery rocks that lead into the water. But at least there don't seem to be any sea urchins on the rocks. Swimming in the clear water is fantastic, little colorful fish pass by again and again. We swim to the small cave passage, which is located below the parking lot. It is so pleasant that we let ourselves drift in the water for quite a while before making ourselves comfortable on the rocks. We talk a lot again, and time flies. Every now and then, we spot a little crab, which Yasmin apparently likes to pinch in the butt. We watch the little creatures with pleasure. However, it doesn't take long and we're getting too hot again. So we take another swim in the water, while Yasmin would like to know everything about Dirndls and what Italian songs are popular at the Oktoberfest. We think about that almost all day. We still eat our panini and then make our way back to the car. Yasmin is prepared for salty bodies and puts mats on the seats. Quite smart actually, especially for this water rat.

We continue along the coastal road to Torre Minervino. The bright tower stands on a high cliff, giving us an impressive view once again. The landscape of the surrounding area is barren and dried out again, the soil slightly red, and consequently our feet too. The long coastline extends to both the left and the right. Yasmin says that on clear days, you can even see Greece, but today it's too hazy. There are also small hiking trails along the coast, but they are probably only used in winter because it's simply too hot, we are told. Yes, okay, understandable. Torre Minervino is located within the municipality of Santa Cesarea Terme and is one of the many towers we discover along the coast. The towers were built under the Spanish King Charles V in the 16th century to defend against attacks from the east.

Enough of the view, we continue along the panoramic road, from one tower to the next, past the many bathing bays (which we only see from above) until we reach Marina Serra, where there is a swimming pool fed by the sea. Here, many children seem to learn swimming, and the parents and adults can go out further, where the sea produces much more exciting waves. There is also a cave nearby where nuns used to bathe, as you can't see inside from the outside. If you want to swim into it from the sea, you have to dive briefly as well. It is called Grotta Matrona. We descend via a steep stone path and enter the much cooler, but equally clear, water. Some metals color the cave in an interesting way, and the rock is partly pink to violet. The echo is also impressive. Yasmin points out the 'pomodori del mare' on the underwater rocks, which glow so red that they really resemble tomatoes. They are probably sea anemones, but sea tomatoes would be a fitting name too, we think. When we leave the cave, many people at the top ask us what it's like down there - is it very cold? very dark? You can tell that many are hesitant to go down because you can't see anything from above. But it's really beautiful down there.
We enjoy the rest of the afternoon at the bathing area of Marina Serra, let the little crabs pinch us a bit more, learn some Bavarian hits or Italian sign language, and exchange the latest gossip. Just as we imagine Italy, we treat ourselves to another spritz in the water. Along with it, we not only get taralli, but also bruschetta chips and really tasty olives. That's the life.

Unfortunately, it's time to make our way back as we have already booked our accommodation in Lecce, and the last bus there leaves soon. We take another shower at Casa Yasmin's private house and then drive to Tricase. Before going to the city center, we make a detour to Chiesa dei Diavoli. There is also a legend surrounding this church. It was built as a result of a pact between the devil and a merchant from San Martino. The devil made it possible for the church to be built in just one night. However, because the merchant did not fulfill his part of the agreement, the devil, in anger, removed the church bells. Today it is said that a small tour of the city center shows us at least the market square, castle, and hospital. Then we quickly get the bus tickets for only about €5 per person and use the remaining time to stock up on taralli, frisè, and the typical Quarta Cafè of the region to take home. It's getting quite tight because there are so many people at the checkout. Well, we thought, then the bus must be late too. Convenient.
Saying goodbye is difficult, but Yasmin will sail towards Greece tonight. And there are still some beautiful spots in Apulia waiting for us. But this day in Tricase was a unique experience that will surely stay in our memories.
In our opinion, these southern points of Apulia are worth a visit!