#138 The eyes of the mountains and the winter wonderland of Montenegro

June 1-2, 2022: Curevac, Durmitor National Park

J. On the way from Biogradska Gora National Park to Durmitor National Park, we drove along the very impressive Tara Canyon. Especially at this time of year, the Tara is full of water and becomes a raging whitewater river on which rafting is possible and kayaking is only allowed after obtaining a license. From the Ðurđevića-Tara Bridge, there is a particularly good view along the canyon. Everything is also done here for tourism. Stands of various providers line up here. In addition to rafting and kayaking courses, there are numerous zip lines over the gorge and canyoning is offered in summer. However, we were satisfied with the beautiful view, as we wanted to continue to Durmitor National Park.

We have heard a lot from other travelers about Durmitor National Park. It consists of densely wooded mountains with some beautiful glacial lakes (also called "mountain eyes"). However, it is also located in a ski area, so we felt that way on the first day. There is no longer any snow, but on the way up into the mountains, the pouring rain turned into hail with huge hailstones. Since we were worried about our solar system, we preferred to wait out the rain/hail in the valley. Afterwards, we drove through a winter wonderland. The hail had covered the ground in a white layer, making everything beautiful but also quite slippery. However, we arrived safely at the top.

On our hike to the Curevac viewpoint the next day, we still found some hail piles. From the viewpoint, we had a wonderful view over the Tara Canyon.

But of course, we also had to visit the highlights of the national park: the glacial lakes, especially the Black Lake. We took a hike through the dense, dense coniferous forest to Snake Lake and then to Black Lake. During our hike, all we could see in every direction were tree trunks. The dark, dense, cool forest surrounded us and stretched far. It must be pleasant to hike here even in the scorching summer heat. Suddenly, among the many dark trees, I spotted a few slightly lighter trees that were upside down. At first, there were only a few, but then there were more and more. We had arrived. Black Lake stretched out before us and presented the surroundings in a perfect reflection. The Black Lake is not black at all, but shimmers in all colors, from dark fir green to sky blue. It is so smooth that it carries an impressive reflection of the surroundings. The dense coniferous forests look even more beautiful and the tall snow-covered mountains even more impressive.

By chance, we were there during the Čeline. I didn't quite understand it, but apparently the melting water collects in caves until they are filled up in June, and then they explosively spit out the water in waterfalls into the lake. This natural spectacle can only be seen for a few weeks in June. So, on our hike around Black Lake, we passed by three beautiful waterfalls or had to walk through them. They were flowing over the hiking trail. It was an experience to walk so close to the tall, beautiful waterfalls and to balance over wobbly stones through the rushing waterfall. Due to the additional water, the lake was completely flooded as well. We were told that the waterfalls will dry up in about two weeks and the water will flow out of the lake, returning it to its normal state. The many travelers who had raved about Black Lake must have seen it all in its "normal state". But now it is probably even more beautiful.

In the evening, we checked in at a campground and were directly invited for coffee and homemade pear and honey raki. The combination of coffee and schnapps seems to be common here. Yesterday, we certainly didn't get anything because we didn't meet anyone in the middle of the forest who could invite us. The next morning when checking out, the high-proof raki was offered to us again, but we declined.

In just four days, we visited the three highlights of Montenegro's inland: Biogradska Gora National Park, Durmitor National Park, and the Tara Canyon, and I would say especially the latter two are really worth it. Now we continue towards Serbia. We will save the capital and the coast of Montenegro for next time.

Day 229 - Total tour 17,054 km

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