Belgrade - Balkan Trip 2019

Le Corbusier, architect and aesthete, was so shocked by the condition of Belgrade at the beginning of the last century that he called it the "ugliest city in the world in the most beautiful location in the world". Nonetheless, we were looking forward to the "ugly city" and its facets, as this city has been a secret tip of the Balkans for years.

Accommodation

The bus station in Belgrade is located not far from the Belgrade train station "Glavna", which unfortunately has been closed. The train station has to make way for a new luxury district. Today, only a cafe is offered here and the old abandoned tracks are observed. Exhausted from the bus trip, we slowly made our way to our accommodation. It should be mentioned that we had not slept properly for about 40 hours and just needed a bed. After a somewhat arduous walk, we quickly reached our hotel, the xx. Thanks to the friendly staff and a bit of luck, our room was already available at 8 a.m., so we could rest until noon. The staff was very friendly and the hotel garden, despite its central location, was very quiet and natural.

Sights

After a short nap, we set off with new energy towards the "Topcider" train station to buy our train tickets for the train to Montenegro. Trams to the Topcider train station, located in a large park, leave directly in front of the "Glavna" train station. Trains depart from here to all corners of the Balkans. Belgrade's trams are among other things retired trams from the Basel Transport Company, what nostalgia!

Arriving at the Topcider train station, we bought a train ticket to Montenegro. The price per person is 20 €, but for this price the train travels around 600 km on one of the slowest railway lines in Europe, including breathtaking landscapes. After our return from the train station, our path led to the Cathedral of Saint Sava.

The Orthodox church, which is still not completed, has a crypt lined with frescoes of the Orthodox faith. What an impressive sight!

From here, we made our way to the Church of the Archangel Michael, which was the biggest surprise of Belgrade for me. In this Orthodox church, it is surprisingly quiet. When this magical place captivates you and the chants of the monks affect you, the hardships of the journey so far are forgotten. This church is definitely worth a visit if Belgrade is on the list.

To end our day, we spent the late afternoon on the fortress hill "Kalemegdan".

The former fortress of Belgrade offers a beautiful panoramic view over Belgrade and the confluence of the Danube and Sava rivers. After a final walk through the extensive park, we made our way home through the city center and found a small restaurant not far from our accommodation along the way.

Food Plan

Upon arrival at the snack bar "Cevapcici Dreams", we were greeted very friendly by the staff and I was recommended to try a combination plate of cevapcici, raznijci, onions, and bread. I particularly liked the raznijci, a type of sausage. The food for 2 persons and drinks cost a total of 990 dinars (8.40 €), which is very cheap.

Conclusion

Belgrade blew us away. A city that initially appears very bleak and gray, knows how to convince. With its venerable Soviet buildings and impressive Orthodox churches, the friendly people of Belgrade, some of whom spoke very good German, Belgrade is becoming an absolute trend destination in the coming years. The city, which has its own charm in its outskirts, but is already very modern in the center. It remains to be seen when the prestige project "Belgrade Waterfront" will be completed. Then it can be foreseen that Belgrade will become the Manhattan of the Balkans.