Publié: 06.01.2019
To prevent homesickness from becoming too great and to make use of the free days, we spent Christmas on Santa Catalina Island. From San Pedro, we took a ferry to Two Harbors and saw several dolphins in the distance along the way. So it started off very special - and it continued just like that: we fell in love as soon as we arrived! Two Harbors and especially our accommodation there, Banning House Lodge, are simply wonderfully located: The narrowest point of the island is a cozy little place, two bays and the hill chains provide beautiful views all around and tourists come mainly because of the nature. Banning House Lodge is the only 'fortified' accommodation besides some holiday homes. There are camping sites all around for the other tourists. Environmental friendliness and relaxation are also evident in the rest of the offerings - a mini market, a beach bar, and a restaurant are completely sufficient here. A welcome distraction from the overwhelming offer on the mainland.
We used the first day to hike the Trans Catalina Trail to Little Harbor - about 16km. I was already happy at the very beginning that it was December and therefore only 18 degrees warm when we started. The inclines - especially at the beginning - are a decent test for one's condition. I don't even want to imagine hiking the trail at 30 degrees or more - especially also because there's virtually no shade along the way. (This is also the reason why I got my first Christmas sunburn in my life.) But one is quickly and abundantly rewarded for the physical exertion - the view that awaits is simply incredible. (I was very happy to have brought my DSLR camera.)
Two special encounters made the excursion even more unforgettable: when we could eventually tear ourselves away from the view of the sea in Little Harbor and wanted to go back, suddenly a bison bull stood in front of us on the campsite and peacefully grazed next to a fire pit. Later on the way, our paths crossed again with one of these impressive animals. Although we had already seen other bison from a distance before, these immediate and quite close encounters were truly special. The bison were originally brought to the island for a film shoot. The population size is now controlled, but apart from that, the bison are largely left alone. There are information boards at various locations on the island about how to behave when encountering bison, because individual animals or bison cows with calves can also become aggressive. Our host summarized it: Basically they're like wild pets, but you better don't try to pet them.
The next day, we went on a kayak trip. On a small rocky island called Bird Rock, we could watch many birds sunbathing. It was particularly great to observe the pelicans' landings. But the real highlight were the seals in the water and on the rock. In addition to the typical sounds, you can mainly notice the marine mammals by their smell - or rather stench. Fortunately, after a short time, you don't notice it anymore. The seals also enjoyed the sun - on the rock and in the water. They stay together in groups in the water and lie on one side, with one of their lateral fins raised. From a distance, it looks like a flock of very strange birds. When we approached, they greeted us with their sounds. However, most of them fled from us. Some curious seals came closer, and one even dived under our kayak. - For a brief moment, our hearts skipped a beat, after all, they are much more agile in the water than we are and despite their cute appearance, they are predators. It also crossed my mind that supposedly there are more incidents between seals and humans than between sharks and humans. But the moment lasted only a short time - the joy of this next special encounter with animals in their natural habitat definitely outweighed it. - We couldn't wipe the grin off our faces the whole day.
In the afternoon, we took the ferry to Avalon to spend another night there. Avalon is the complete opposite of Two Harbors - shops, restaurants, and hotels everywhere. Nevertheless, it still somehow feels cozy, even though there are noticeably more tourists arriving on land. In any case, The Lobster Trap restaurant is worth recommending - my fresh tuna with mango salsa made me forget all previous tuna dishes.
Since a storm was announced for the next day, the ferry connections were canceled in the first half of the day. Due to the public holiday, many cafes etc. were closed. Therefore, we left the town and hiked to the Botanical Garden. We got a bit more of an insight into islanders' lives and were able to explore the hinterland. Unfortunately, the Botanical Garden was closed as well. A nice islander then took us back to the town in her golf cart - the main means of transportation in Avalon. In the afternoon, all tourists were loaded onto the only ferry for the day. Due to the storm, sickness bags were distributed on board. The sea state was actually impressive. - I was very glad that I fell asleep quickly and didn't have to witness the general discomfort... When we were back on land, one thing was clear to me: Santa Catalina Island and especially Two Harbors - I'll be back!