Nai-publish: 20.10.2017
On Tuesday (03/10/2017) I get out of bed around half past eight. According to 'www.karpatenwilli.de', the character of the Făgăraș Mountains, east of the nearby Fereastra Mare a Sâmbetei, changes from rocky and rugged to lovely and gentle, and the rest of the ridge hike is like a walk in the park. No reason to hurry. After breakfast, I retreat back into the warm sleeping bag for another half an hour. When the first rays of sunshine reach the shelter, it's time to set off. Our path still follows the main ridge, at elevations between 2000m and over 2400m. But the peaks to conquer are rather flat and mostly covered in grass. It's much more relaxed walking, and Rango can roam freely again. After about 3 hours, we take a break at Curmătura Zarnei (a shelter). Here, I start a conversation with two hikers who apparently had multiple encounters with a bear during their ascent (from the east). Camping in a tent doesn't seem like a viable option for the rest of the trail. After another 2 hours of relaxed hiking and a total of 15 kilometers, we reach the Refugiul Curmaturii Bratile. In the futuristic-looking RedDome, we make ourselves comfortable for the night.
Wednesday starts off foggy. In the early morning hours, it drizzles a bit and there seems to be no sun in sight. Nevertheless, we set off shortly after ten and begin the descent from Munții Făgăraşului. Unexpectedly, the weather improves gradually and around noon we are greeted by the first rays of sunshine. We make good progress and reach Cabana Rudărița at an altitude of 1050m after about 4.5 hours and 16 kilometers. The hikers from the previous day gave me hope for a ride to Zărneşti, but unfortunately, I don't meet anyone at the hut. That means the planned coffee and a possible overnight stay are off the table. After a short 30-minute break, we continue walking. The next huts are expected at the entrance of Zărneşti, about 9km away. We walk along a forest road and make good time. It's constantly downhill and the backpack, no longer quite as full, makes its presence felt. So we cover the distance in a good hour and a half. Once there, another disappointment, the huts are no longer accommodating visitors. That means we have to keep walking. After another half an hour and a total of 27.6km, a passing car takes pity on us and gives us a ride to the center of Zărneşti. There, I treat myself to a hot beverage and a small dinner at a pub. I contact Alina, a member of the 'Night Hiking Group' who has offered me accommodation in her apartment in Focșani. The offer was sincere, so I continue my journey towards the east overnight, taking various trains (via Brașov and Bucharest).