Published: 06.10.2020
After an early breakfast, I leisurely pack up my things on Wednesday morning (26.02.2020). After a swim, we head towards Hengam. Kara picks me up along the way and gives me a ride to the city on his pickup truck. Here, with the help of a young Iranian woman and her hotspot, I'm able to send a message home. I haven't had any network for a few days, my phone is probably blocked. I say goodbye to Kara at the harbor before we set sail towards Qeshm Island. I refill my petrol supplies near the harbor and shortly after, I walk along the highway towards the north. After about 5 km, a young man in his small car picks me up and takes me to the northwest of the island. Here, near the village of Chahu Sharghi, is the Chahkooh Canyon. In this village, I get myself a coffee and replenish my food supplies. Unfortunately, I am stopped at the outskirts of the village from hiking to the canyon. The approximately 3 km attraction is closed due to Covid-19. There seems to be a 50/50 chance that the access road will reopen the next day, but the information is too vague for me to wait. So, I leave the village towards the coastal road and walk east for a while. Unfortunately, I cannot find freshwater along the coastline, and the sea is not suitable for swimming here. Therefore, I decide to try my luck with another access to the canyon that is marked on my map. The landscape along this route is very picturesque. I see more bizarre rock formations, a lake reflecting the surroundings, and a savannah-like landscape in between. There doesn't seem to be anyone at the canyon itself. The sanitary facilities are unfortunately closed, but there is a water storage nearby with an open door. This provides enough cool water for washing and for Rango. Before I look for a camping spot, I hide from a motorcyclist (maybe a patrol) and then set up my camp. Apart from a camel herder and his animals, no one else shows up for a while. As dusk falls, a few tourists arrive. Among them is a Swiss couple who came to Iran for skiing and are taking a small detour to the south to warm up. Quite crazy. So, the day ends with a little workout, a shower at the water storage, and a salad with some rice. The Dicken enjoys it too.
The next morning, I am already up by half past six, but I am not the first one exploring the canyon. Some locals are taking drone photos, probably for a wedding. Back at the tent, I have a small breakfast for myself and the Dicken. I pack my stuff, doze off a bit in the morning sun, and finally start walking towards Tabl. After about 2 hours, I manage to hitch a ride on a pickup truck. In Tabl, I take a stroll, treat myself to a pistachio milkshake and an espresso, catch up on the latest news using the store's Wi-Fi, and later on, charge my phone battery at a vegetable stall. Then I am taken to Hara Forest Tabl. It is connected to the city by a kind of dam and here, similar to Kavarzin, there is a platform. It has boat docks, a mosque, a pavilion, and access to water and electricity, providing everything I need for the night. So I relax in the shade for the afternoon before going back to Tabl for some shopping around half past four. Most of the shops are closed during lunchtime. After returning to my camping spot in time for sunset, I enjoy the colorful spectacle once again. After some exercise, a shower, and dinner, it's time to retreat to the nest. It's warm, and surprisingly, there are no mosquitoes around, so I decide to skip setting up the tent for the evening.
In the night of Friday, 28th February 2020, two anglers come to the platform and set up camp nearby. In the morning, they invite me for tea. Then I set off to Tabl quite early, use the Wi-Fi to download maps, stroll through the city, and then head east. Shortly after, Hamid picks me up and gives me a ride to Qeshm. Here, we have a coffee at a beach bar in Zeytun Park, where I can later leave my backpack. During a quick walk into the city, I grab a small dinner and explore the situation regarding coffee bars and ice cream parlors. Back at Zeytun Park, I set up my tent and retreat under my tarp after some exercise, a shower, and dinner. Due to an open-air event at the nearby beach bar, the first half of the night is less restful than hoped.