19b Domspatzen and Walhalla
Route: 0 kilometers, cumulative: 1,586 kilometers | Elevation gain: 0, cumulative elevation gain: 6,379 meters, distance from home: 361 kilometers (as the crow flies) Today I...


Published: 25.05.2026



































Route: 96 kilometers, cumulative: 1,682 kilometers | Elevation gain: 320 meters, cumulative elevation gain: 6,699 meters, distance from home: 299 kilometers (as the crow flies)
The stairs up to the Walhalla made me more tired yesterday than expected. I received the following additional information today: This monumental structure, also known as the 'shrine of the nation,' was built within 12 years and is among the most significant creations of King Ludwig I. You can reach this building either on foot via 358 steps, by car, or by bicycle.
Coming from the boat, it is said to be as many as 479 steps. Usually, one floor has about 16 steps, so this corresponds to a skyscraper with about 30 floors. When I internalise that, I start sweating all over again. I also read that serious falls occur regularly. Therefore, I am not ashamed to say that I climbed the stairs partly on all fours. Safety was more important to me than looking elegant. Dear Miriam, thank you for this info.
After a deep sleep, I was wide awake at 6 a.m. Now nothing and no one could hold me back; I was very happy to be on my way again. My destination was actually supposed to be Ingolstadt. Claus told me in the evening that most cyclists go via Kelheim and take the boat from there to Weltenburg Abbey. There is no cycle path through the narrow Danube Gorge. I researched it and thought the idea was great. Unfortunately, I then discovered that the boats cannot dock at the abbey due to low water levels. A pity, it would have been an attractive detour.
Instead, I took the path that follows all the bends of the Danube after Regensburg. Since I was early, it was still pleasantly cool and calm, and I was almost alone on the road. I enjoyed this ride very much.
From the start, the sky was cloudless and it looked like it would be a warm day. So I only put on a T-shirt and, initially, a light windbreaker. But soon it became too warm even for that. I actually feel uncomfortable in just a short-sleeved shirt—partly because of the sun and partly because of a potential fall, as my arms would have no protection at all.
In Abensberg, I went to a restaurant because the heat makes you thirsty, and I was aware that I didn't have enough fluids with me. Since it was Whit Monday, the shops were closed. I ordered a large bottle of water, drank some, and filled the rest into my thermal bottle.
At the edge of town, I suddenly saw a strange building with a tower. The building was a brewery and the tower was a structure by Hundertwasser. It was very fascinating and looks good even in the photos. Unfortunately, the beer garden was still closed; I would have liked to see it up close.
I haven't counted how many times I crossed the Danube today; it must have been at least 10 times. However, the bridges are getting shorter as the width of the Danube has decreased significantly. And it will remain that way until the 'source' of the Danube, which is formed in Donaueschingen by the confluence of two streams.
I didn't feel like staying in Ingolstadt; I had been in Regensburg long enough. I wanted to get back to the countryside. And so, after a few kilometres, I ended up at the Gasthof Vogelsang. 😊
***
English
Route: 96 kilometers, cumulative: 1,682 kilometers | Elevation gain: 320 m, cumulative elevation gain: 6,699 m, distance from home: 299 kilometers (as the crow flies)
The stairs up to the Walhalla made me more tired yesterday than expected. I received the following additional information today: This monumental structure, also known as the 'shrine of the nation,' was built within 12 years and is among the most significant creations of King Ludwig I. You can reach this building either on foot via 358 steps, by car, or by bicycle.
Coming from the boat, it is said to be as many as 479 steps. Usually, one floor has about 16 steps, so this corresponds to a skyscraper with about 30 floors. When I internalise that, I start sweating all over again. I also read that serious falls occur regularly. Therefore, I am not ashamed to say that I climbed the stairs partly on all fours. Safety was more important to me than looking elegant. Dear Miriam, thank you for this info.
After a deep sleep, I was wide awake at 6 a.m. Now nothing and no one could hold me back; I was very happy to be on my way again. My destination was actually supposed to be Ingolstadt. Claus told me in the evening that most cyclists go via Kelheim and take the boat from there to Weltenburg Abbey. There is no cycle path through the narrow Danube Gorge. I researched it and thought the idea was great. Unfortunately, I then discovered that the boats cannot dock at the abbey due to low water levels. A pity, it would have been an attractive detour.
Instead, I took the path that follows all the bends of the Danube after Regensburg. Since I was early, it was still pleasantly cool and calm, and I was almost alone on the road. I enjoyed this ride very much.
From the start, the sky was cloudless and it looked like it would be a warm day. So I only put on a T-shirt and, initially, a light windbreaker. But soon it became too warm even for that. I actually feel uncomfortable in just a short-sleeved shirt—partly because of the sun and partly because of a potential fall, as my arms would have no protection at all.
In Abensberg, I went to a restaurant because the heat makes you thirsty, and I was aware that I didn't have enough fluids with me. Since it was Whit Monday, the shops were closed. I ordered a large bottle of water, drank some, and filled the rest into my thermal bottle.
At the edge of town, I suddenly saw a strange building with a tower. The building was a brewery and the tower was a structure by Hundertwasser. It was very fascinating and looks good even in the photos. Unfortunately, the beer garden was still closed; I would have liked to see it up close.
I haven't counted how many times I crossed the Danube today; it must have been at least 10 times. However, the bridges are getting shorter as the width of the Danube has decreased significantly. And it will remain that way until the 'source' of the Danube, which is formed in Donaueschingen by the confluence of two streams.
I didn't feel like staying in Ingolstadt; I had been in Regensburg long enough. I wanted to get back to the countryside. And so, after a few kilometres, I ended up at the Gasthof Vogelsang. 😊
***
Español
Ruta: 96 kilómetros, acumulados: 1.682 kilómetros | Desnivel: 320 m, desnivel acumulado: 6.699 m, distancia desde casa: 299 kilómetros (en línea recta)
Las escaleras que suben al Walhalla me dejaron ayer más cansado de lo previsto. Hoy he recibido la siguiente información adicional: Este monumental edificio, también llamado 'santuario de la nación', fue construido en un plazo de 12 años y se cuenta entre las creaciones más importantes del rey Luis I. Se puede llegar a este edificio a pie a través de 358 escalones, en coche o en bicicleta.
Viniendo desde el barco, se dice que son incluso 479 escalones. Normalmente, un piso tiene unos 16 escalones, por lo que esto equivale a un rascacielos de unos 30 pisos. Cuando lo pienso bien, vuelvo a sudar de inmediato. También he leído que se producen caídas graves con regularidad. Por eso, no me avergüenza decir que subí las escaleras en parte a gatas. Para mí, la seguridad era más importante que la elegancia. Querida Miriam, gracias por esta información.
Después de un sueño profundo, estaba totalmente despierto a las 6 de la mañana. Ya nada ni nadie podía detenerme; me alegraba mucho volver a ponerme en marcha. En realidad, mi destino debía ser Ingolstadt. Claus me contó por la noche que la mayoría de los ciclistas van por Kelheim y desde allí toman el barco hasta la abadía de Weltenburg. Debido al estrecho desfiladero del Danubio, no hay carril bici. Investigué y la idea me pareció estupenda. Lamentablemente, descubrí que los barcos no pueden atracar en la abadía debido al bajo nivel del agua. Lástima, habría sido un desvío muy atractivo.
Así que tomé el camino que sigue todas las curvas del Danubio después de Ratisbona (Regensburg). Como salí temprano, todavía hacía un frescor agradable y no soplaba viento; estaba casi solo en el camino. Disfruté mucho de este trayecto.
Desde el principio, el cielo estuvo despejado y parecía que hoy haría calor. Así que solo me puse una camiseta y, al principio, una chaqueta ligera cortavientos. Pero pronto empezó a hacer demasiado calor incluso así. En realidad, me siento incómodo solo con una camiseta de manga corta; por un lado por el sol y por otro por una posible caída, ya que los brazos no están protegidos en absoluto.
En Abensberg fui a un restaurante, ya que el calor también da sed, y era consciente de que no llevaba suficiente líquido conmigo. Como era lunes de Pentecostés, las tiendas estaban cerradas. Pedí una botella grande de agua, bebí un poco y vertí el resto en mi botella térmica.
A la salida del pueblo, vi de repente un edificio extraño con una torre. El edificio era una cervecería y la torre una construcción de Hundertwasser. Fue muy fascinante e incluso queda bien en las fotos. Lamentablemente, el jardín de cerveza (Biergarten) aún estaba cerrado; me habría gustado verlo de cerca.
No he contado cuántas veces he cruzado hoy el Danubio; deben haber sido al menos 10 veces. Sin embargo, los puentes son cada vez más cortos, ya que la anchura del río ha disminuido mucho. Y así seguirá siendo hasta llegar a la 'fuente' del Danubio, que se forma en Donaueschingen por la confluencia de dos arroyos.
No tenía ganas de quedarme en Ingolstadt; ya había estado suficiente tiempo en Ratisbona. Quería volver al campo. Y así, tras unos pocos kilómetros, terminé en el Gasthof Vogelsang. 😊
