Rush Hour on the TransDinarica

Day #64

Friday, July 3rd.

From Kolašin to Žabljak

Country: Montenegro

Light rain wakes me up in the morning, and I take care of what can be done in the tent.

Fortunately, it stops soon, making the packing process a bit more relaxed.

Breakfast follows, and the departure is delayed a little.

I'm in a ski area, and it is largely shaped by tourism. I'm a bit surprised by a golf course.

There is indeed a sufficiently flat area, as everything is hilly and the mountains rise all around.

To which I am heading and wondering where to go next when it goes steeply up on the left, right, and in front of me.

The answer is a steep ascent over many serpentines with coarse gravel.

In 'new speak', it is called gravel today.

I regularly use my bell cheerfully; I can do without another encounter with a bear, and the forests look too inviting for someone to wander around here.

The sky is overcast, keeping the temperatures comfortable.

The higher I go, the colder it gets, so I soon pull out my hat and put on my windbreaker during the necessary stops.

Then it's time, I find myself on the high plateau and treat myself to a decent break.

The area is impressive. Curved hills in a rocky landscape, and there are old wooden huts, the remnants of which still stand here.

While I'm leisurely eating, a French bikepacking couple passes by, also heading north, and we chat briefly before they continue their ride.

I eventually continue through the indescribable rocky landscape, interspersed with green meadows.

As I pass by a settlement—if you can call three houses that—along with a sheep herd, I'm glad that the shepherd dogs are on a leash.

They seem quite determined.

I see the French couple just ahead of me, and when I take a detour to an Orthodox church, I expect to meet them.

Surprisingly, it is a Dutch couple who are on their way to Turkey from Utrecht, and we chat briefly.

Fortunately, because at that exact moment, a convoy of Jeeps drives over the track that I would have had to avoid otherwise.

Which probably would have only worked by stopping, as there must be about 30 or 40 cars, and the road is very narrow.

On the descent, I meet a Ukrainian who is just struggling upwards and is glad for the break.

Shortly after that, his friend joins us.

While we're still talking, a German bikepacker climbs up the mountain.

It's a nice group, and experiences are exchanged.

The content is often similar; where from, where to, how long are the standard questions.

You get a tip every now and then or can also share your own knowledge.

Like the warning about the stage behind Mostar that the guy from Georgia shared with me yesterday, which I later pass on to the French couple I meet again during their break.

The TransDinarica is designed to be traveled from north to south.

Doing it the other way around, as we are, is a significantly greater challenge. That's why I'm still grappling with whether I want to adjust my route from Mostar.

By the eighth bikepacker, I just waved, at some point I have to make sure to cover some kilometers.

The goal today is to reach Zabljak, to shop and withdraw cash.

There is information that these are the last ATMs on the route to Mostar.

On that occasion, I order a pizza to save supplies.

The reception of the targeted campsite, which is in a national park, has unfortunately already closed when I arrive there, so I book accommodation that is on the further route.

The little house is small and very cozy.

A fire is already burning in the stove, generating a pleasant warmth.

Perfect after the cool temperatures of the day.

Okay, most of the time I'm sitting outside first, to smoke and write the next report.

Then it's urgently time to go to bed, or rather to pull out the sofa bed; there just isn't enough space for a real bed.

Song of the day:

Frozen Soul - Glacial Domination