Alone Together

Day #57

Friday, June 26th.

From Žabeni to Trpejca

Country: North Macedonia

We had agreed on a rough time to get up and have breakfast together.

Extensive coffee before we set off for Bitula, where we plan to stop at a supermarket.

Super convenient when someone waits outside and you can leave your bike with the electronics just standing there.

I am very pleased that there is real bread, with grains.

Everyone should have an ice cream, and then we go our separate ways.

Since this morning, I've been having problems with the derailleur; the chain keeps getting stuck on the small chainring.

Yet luckily, I am in the second-largest city in the country, even though it feels more like a big village to me.

So I ask for directions to an expert who can quickly fix the problem for me.

It makes more sense to take the opportunity than to make things worse.

At home, I must definitely learn how to do it myself, as I still lack the necessary knowledge.

On lonely roads, I ascend, and I am glad when I can cool off at a water source.

Cold, clear water. Wonderful.

At the entrance to the national park, there are warnings about bears. I already know that.

I briefly chat with a bikepacking couple coming towards me.

From them, I also learn that a Frenchman is traveling just ahead of me.

So much for my thoughts on when I might meet other bike travelers again; this seems to be a popular route.

The landscape is simply beautiful as well.

Passing a huge lake, the road steeply ascends.

No worries, there was also a thrilling descent in between.

It’s wonderful how the landscape continues to unfold beneath me as I happily and slowly work my way up the serpentines.

A very popular route among motorcyclists too; otherwise, there is pleasantly little traffic today.

When I reach the highest point, Lake Ohrid spreads out in front of me on the other side.

The view is spectacular, and on the map, I see that the descent will be winding.

That’s how it should be.

But for now, I pause and enjoy the moment.

A family vacationing here gives me a few eggs, a welcome change.

From them, I hear the comparison that the scenery resembles Heidi, and I can agree on that.

Oh yes, in the meantime, I have seen four more bike travelers coming towards me.

The descent is also incredibly good.

If it weren't so strenuous to return to the starting point, I would love to do it again.

In the process, I also set my all-time speed record, which I will better leave unnamed.

Along the road towards the lake, I find a suitable spot for a campsite.

However, since I forgot to stop in time to refill my water, I have to quickly return to the last village.

There is a possibility near the church.

Back at the potential campsite, a car is now parked.

Well, let's start the search anew, and a short distance further, I find a spot.

Somewhat less pretty, but covered and still close enough to the road.

I assume there is no national park here. With no internet, I have to rely on that, and as long as cars and motorcycles are cruising along the road, I feel good about not disturbing any animals.

The camp is quickly set up, and after dinner, it is already pitch dark, and time to crawl into the tent.

Song of the Day:

Boltcutter - Twenty One Cars