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Ciclovia Alpe-Adria - Stage 2

Published: 02.08.2021

Today was the queen stage from St. Johann im Pongau to Bad Gastein on the agenda. Queen stage because it is uphill to the Gasteiner Tal and especially in the last kilometers there is a considerable difference in altitude to overcome. A queen stage actually also includes king weather, but we didn't want to indulge in such confused fantasies in this summer 2021. After the remarkable thunderstorm night before, it was positive that the cycle path on the banks of the Salzach River was still dry. With gloomy skies and based on meticulous calculations of rain-free periods, we set off to complete these good 40km and were forced to endure a few additional meters of altitude due to a (not flood-related) construction site after just a few kilometers. Fortunately, a very friendly local couple showed us a shortcut that took us back to the river and to Schwarzach via a gravel track.

After that, it gets really ugly and the route continues to rise incessantly up to a catch basin, from where a great view compensates for the efforts. The illusion that it is only downhill from there to the entrance to the Gasteiner Tal was quickly destroyed. You can also reach a point in the valley by driving uphill and downhill about 15 times. To make matters worse, the weather also decided not to stick to its forecast and started raining - insolently outside the predicted rainy periods.

Fortunately, the cycle path hides in a motorway tunnel at the entrance to the Gasteiner Tal, fortunately separated by a barrier. But the protection from the weather is paid for with the acoustic experience, which is not for ears spoiled by Salzburg Festival performances. 1.5 km and tinnitus later, we reached the Gasteiner Tal safely and in the meantime pouring rain, where we found shelter, goulash soup and apple strudel in a wonderful country inn. Contemplating the meaning of the undertaking, various scenarios were developed (leave the bikes and take the train to Bad Gastein and back the next day, etc. and so on...). In the end, we wanted to at least reach Dorfgastein and then see further. The announced rain gap actually came and since everything went so well, we decided to continue to Bad Hofgastein. Since the amount of rain was still very modest there as well, we continued straight on to Badbruck. From there it is only another 2.5 km to the destination but also another 250 meters of altitude. And it had started pouring down again but so close to the finish line, we don't give up anymore. What followed were the steepest streets in the world, so that at times we had to push as well. We were already soaking wet anyway. The last section then led directly past the wellness facility of our hotel with a clear view of the indoor pool... we made it there in record time and are now enjoying the amenities at the Salzburger Hof, with a clear view of the horrible summer weather.

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