Published: 20.07.2024
Tags 87-98.
3 months (almost) of continuous camping have left their mark. We both feel a slight exhaustion creeping up on us, but this is mainly because we don't feel quite fit. After Chris overcame his stomach sickness, Eva now falls ill upon arriving in Chamonix. This is not how we imagined our reunion with the high mountains. Nevertheless, we are completely impressed by the sight that now unfolds before us. The steep rock massif of Mont Blanc in bright sunshine!
The first campsite we head to is located right in the city center, so it is small and, who would have guessed, completely full. The high season has begun. So we drive to the nearby village of Les Bossons and find a cozy spot in the shade of Mont Blanc. On the day of arrival, nothing happens except resting, the lethargy must be overcome.
The next day we both feel much better, what luck. Now we can start our trip to the city. We hop on the local bus to the center and once again we are completely surprised by the international crowds. Americans, Asians, and Europeans are all bustling around in the epicenter of the French Alpine mecca. There is even a camper van from Kuwait on our campsite. And we thought we had been on the road for a long time.
We are seized by the urge to shop and are drawn to the trendy outdoor label stores only to stumble out again at the sight of the prices. Well, at least we can stroll around, that's also good! For lunch, we have typical French hot dogs and we walk back to the campsite on foot. The paths are a dream for every hiker, relaxed, full of tree roots, and the Mont Blanc keeps peeking through the pine trees.
The ultra run in Switzerland, which Chris wants to conquer at the end of July, is getting closer and after the last few sick days, training has to be made up for. So the next day, Chris goes up the mountains and down again in summer temperatures. Around noon, we head back to the city and plan a hike to a small hut. Somehow, we end up in the city again and walk into the outdoor stores once more. After another stroll, we finally head into the forest and climb 400 meters up to the little Chalet de Floria. Great food. Great view. Nothing more to say. Lore sits on a high chair for the first time, which immediately puts Mom and Dad in a good mood.
On the way back, Chris with his sharp nose finds a dozen chanterelle mushrooms, so dinner is taken care of.
As the responsible parents that we are, we have of course informed ourselves in advance about how high we can hike with Lore. Well, not really. In Chamonix, we find out through a quick internet search that babies should not be at an altitude of over 2000 meters. Therefore, our hikes stay below the tree line. It's also beautiful there!
Nevertheless, we would like to take a cable car ride to breathe some fresh mountain air. Fortunately, we also find a cable car that goes up to 1800m and plan a nice descent into the valley for the next day.
Said and done. The next morning, we are punctually at the ticket counter of the cable car and want to buy a one-way ticket. The woman behind the counter takes a look at Lore and asks about her age. Nine months. Not possible. Ok? But we're only going up to 1800 meters. The woman shakes her head and says it's not allowed. We are visibly disappointed. The woman adds insult to injury and reproachfully says, "This is your child!" Yeah, okay. Where the unfriendly cashier is right, she's right. Further research shows that it is better not to take a cable car with a baby at all because they cannot compensate for the rapid change in pressure.
So we go back to the city. Shopping day number 3. Now Chris finally makes a purchase and with falafel in our bellies and a lighter credit card, we head back to the campsite.
Even though we didn't conquer any alpine peaks, we leave Chamonix with a satisfied feeling. Now we just need to do some shopping and fill up the tank before heading to Switzerland. Here we come, Kippel!
In the Lötschen Valley, we can stay at Chris' sister's holiday home for a few days. Finally, a real bed again!
We arrive in the cozy village in the rain and are warmly greeted by Chris' brother-in-law and the kids. For Lore, it's an absolute playground. Her cousin and her other cousin keep her entertained all the time, and now she finally has real toys instead of just wooden spoons, flip-flops, and clothespins. The quaint little cottage is just right for taking a break from the bus for a few days.
The next few days promise sunshine, and we let ourselves be driven up to the end of the valley by the postal bus and then walk the route down leisurely. The high season has also reached Switzerland, and there is a lot going on on the hiking trails. But no problem, once we leave the crowds behind, we easily get lost on old hiking paths and have to climb over electric fences and wade through waist-high grass. Even if we don't always call for adventure, somehow it always finds us.
In the evening, we barbecue on a public grill area (including free firewood in Switzerland) and enjoy the tranquility of the valley.
Our bikes have already started to rust, and small spiderwebs cover the handlebars. Yes, it's been a while since we last cycled. Since then, the bikes have mostly served as a decoration for the back of the van. We want to change that today. Chris' brother-in-law even gives us a new goody for Lore. A front bike seat. Of course, it has to be tried out immediately.
We head to the cable car station, surely we can manage 500 meters in altitude. After Lore puts on her cousin's ski helmet and looks more like she's participating in the Bob World Championship, we set off.
After 140 meters in altitude, we both fall off the saddle exhausted. Chris because Lore is hanging in her seat like a banana, and Eva because she can't go any further after just 50 meters in altitude. And now what? Turn around? Oh no, then it was all for nothing. So we decide to stick to our favorite motto: It will be pushed.
The Swiss find this completely bizarre, who voluntarily pushes their racing(!) bike up the mountain. We are asked several times if everything is okay and if we need a lift up. No no! Lore is now hanging at a 90-degree angle in her seat and has fallen asleep. We take turns pushing the sideways child up the switchbacks. We do manage to ride the last stretch uphill, but we are visibly exhausted as we collapse on the terrace at the cable car station.
One good thing about all this: the ride down! After two cold drinks and French fries for 11€, we zoom down the mountain. Lore doesn't seem to enjoy it as much, she probably needs some time to get used to the new seat.
We spend the last day leisurely in the house and take a short walk with the family. Chris goes for a mountain run and we are ready for the Eiger North Face, where the ultra run takes place.
The departure from Kippel is pure excitement. In a negative sense. We want to leave early to secure a spot at the campsite in Grindelwald near the Eiger. During the night, Lore gets a fever and when we try to give her a suppository in the morning, it shoots out of the child. In wild panic, we quickly gather the soiled clothes and throw them in the car. Then Chris' brother-in-law's car doesn't start and, of course, it starts raining again. With a slight delay, we finally start the journey and, through the car transporter (a train through the mountain, wow!), we reach Grindelwald in 1.5 hours.
We also manage to get a spot at the campsite right below the Eiger. The surroundings are phenomenal! What's not so great is the health condition of our baby. Lore's fever rises to 40 degrees Celsius, and she lies there completely apathetic. We can count ourselves lucky that she only gets so sick after 3 months.
The next two days are like a delirium. The sun is scorching from the sky, and hikers around us start their tours. We stay at the campsite and take care of our child. With calf compresses, suppositories, and lots of cuddling, the fever finally subsides after 2 days. But now her nose is completely stuffed. But the spirits of our baby return, and we calm down as well.
After a brief worry about whether Chris can even start the race, we decide to stay here and on the 3rd day, we even go on a small hike through the magical forests.
Similar to Chamonix, tourism is booming here. But in addition to enthusiastic hikers, wealthy Arabs and Japanese people squeeze through the streets in their fancy cars with gold-plated rims to take the cable car up to 3900 meters. All for the perfect selfie. Hmm. A strange feeling.
The day before the race, Eva joins some of them in the cable car up to the Eiger Glacier. The guilt of not conquering the altitude herself begins to surface, but when she sees the steep rock faces, the feeling quickly disappears. These mountains simply leave everyone in awe.
Up we go to another via ferrata! On the way up, she is even photographed by an older Japanese man and she meets a Swiss man who has brought his alphorn and is now blowing into it with all his might. You really experience a lot here!
Down in the valley, Chris and Lore already pick up the race gear and cheerfully wave at Mom as she comes down in the afternoon by cable car.
Now it's serious. The Eiger Ultra Run is finally here. Chris packs his new running backpack in the evening and gets ready to start at 8:00 a.m. the next day.
Will he conquer the 37.5 kilometers and 2500 meters in altitude?
To be continued...