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Santo Andre → Apúlia (9 + 4km)

Published: 22.10.2026

Stroll
Santo André → Apúlia
9.0 km · Camino
Accommodation
Home of Pilgrims
Hostel · Apúlia
Attraction
Igreja Matriz de Apúlia
Apúlia, Portugal
Attraction
Mills Apulia
Apúlia, Portugal
The night was completely quiet apart from the soft sound of the sea. Even so, I couldn’t sleep well; my legs were aching and my mind was racing.
The shower helped me wake up properly, and I was in the breakfast room shortly after eight (they don’t serve anything before eight) – on my own.
Breakfast room
The breakfast was a bit meagre. After two coffees and some bread rolls with jam and honey, I’d had enough. Nothing else took my fancy, and there were no eggs.
But I’ve had a lovely sea view, and I’ve seen the first pilgrims on the Camino quite close to the large windows.
Outside the hotel
As I was leaving the dining room, I actually did come across a man, a bit older than me, who greeted me warmly and seemed very relaxed.

I set off quite late, at 9.30, when it was 8 degrees. But it didn’t take me long to take off one layer after another, because the sun came out and the exercise made me feel hot. At first, the path was a wooden walkway along the shore, offering a magnificent view of the huge waves out at sea.


After I stopped for a short break, I saw the man from the hotel again. I went over to him and struck up a pleasant conversation. He was from Australia, walks slowly in his own way, just like me, and had spent a couple of days at the hotel. And when I asked him how long he had, he replied with a smile, “I have all the time in the world.” He headed off to a café (strange, as we’d only just had breakfast) and we said our goodbyes.
These are the special moments I love so much – a brief chat with fellow pilgrims.

The underground gave way to cobblestones amidst green, low hills and greenhouses. 
Cobbled path
At my next stop, I suddenly realised that I’d already walked 6 km and that my next accommodation wasn’t far away. I was actually a bit disappointed that I’d reached my destination for the day so soon; on the other hand, my back was aching, I could check in from 12:00, and I desperately needed to do some laundry (I couldn’t stand the smell of my own socks any longer 😅).

You can’t be too careful when walking, especially in towns. There are often damaged pavements, with missing stones or rough bumps, as well as sudden slopes and edges. Today, just before I reached my accommodation, I nearly twisted my right ankle again, but I managed to catch myself just in time, and I’m sure the tape helped ensure nothing happened.

I arrived at my new hostel, the ‘Home of Pilgrims’, shortly after 12 and was welcomed by a friendly woman. She showed me round and later helped me choose the right programme on the washing machine.
My accommodation
Later, I met the friendly man who runs the place, and we had a long chat about the Camino and the pilgrims. He himself walks the Camino once a year, preferably in winter, as that’s when he’s usually on his own. And he was very understanding about my decision to walk my own round route without going to Santiago de Compostela.

Now I’m sitting in a deckchair in the little garden, watching my washing go round, and enjoying the lovingly decorated accommodation, complete with coffee, snacks and drinks (for a few euros to the kitchen fund).
Garden with washing machine
Update:
Later on, I walked about 4 km through Apúlia, visited the church and had my pass stamped.
Igreja Matriz de Apúlia

Then I walked to the beach and the old windmills.

Mills Apulia
It was cold and cloudy; the sea looked completely different to the last few days.
Grey Sea

I got hungry and went to a petiscaria that had good reviews, but there was a note on the door saying “I’ll be back in 1–1.5 hours”, unfortunately without mentioning what time it closed. So I ended up having a supermarket pizza cooked in the pilgrims’ kitchen.

Update 2:
Before the day was even over, I had another inspiring chat in the kitchen with a pilgrim from Colombia, which meant I ended up having to drink my hot tea cold. 


At a glance

Automatically extracted from the post
Length of time
1 Day
Weather
Winter · 8°C
Accompaniment
Alone
AdventurousSoloOff the beaten track
  • Walking on a wooden coastal walkway beside huge waves
  • A friendly conversation with a fellow pilgrim
  • Visiting Igreja Matriz de Apúlia and the old windmills
tape
NatureBeachAdventureArchitecture
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Answer

Portugal
Travel reports Portugal