The fresh hinterland of Digne

In Digne-Les-Bains, I actually planned to stay a bit longer. However, during my research on how to get there, I discovered many exciting places in the nearby area. During my rest day, I put together a three-day route that connects Saint-André-Les-Alpes and Digne. This was a possible alternative program that was a bit more adventurous than exploring the heavily frequented trail network in Digne. After the previous three days of intensive use, I already felt like that should be enough for the time being.

I intended to start the route in Barreme, which was the wildest and most remote section. The same bus driver from my ride here was once again at the wheel. That was a good thing, as they initially didn’t want to let me ride with the bike. However, he assured his colleague - it’s fine until Barreme, that’s manageable. So there I stood shortly after nine in full gear. The last fog patches still hung in the valley. The somewhat mythical atmosphere matched the uncertainty surrounding me. I had hardly found any description or other information about the area I wanted to cross. Just that there were only a few forest roads and trails in several kilometers of the vicinity. I was completely on my own.

So I set off. First up the forest roads, then I entered a trail that crossed a gorge. Everything was a bit overgrown, but quite manageable and not too exposed. Then I encountered a family of wild boars, which quickly grunted away into the underbrush in front of me. After a while, I left the green wilderness and reached a pass with an open view over the forests and hills stretching out in all directions. The damp clay passages that I repeatedly had to cross were somewhat annoying. After the rain yesterday, they still hadn’t dried out and stuck like sticky gum between the lugs of my tires. There was hardly any profile left to be seen, and it certainly couldn’t be felt during the subsequent descent. It was quite a slippery affair.

After a while, I reached Le Poil, a tiny, abandoned hamlet. A group of hikers had taken a rest here and were quite perplexed when I suddenly appeared before them with my bike and gear. I was instead happy to meet other human beings. I continued with a well-ridable uphill trail until I reached the entrance to the descent. This part was what initiated the whole expedition, so hopefully, the 600 vertical meters would be worth it. It turned into quite a fight with the bushes, shrubs, and thorns that encroached into the little-maintained path. But aside from that, the trail was in good condition with lots of flow and some tricky spots. It was fun, and the wilderness spat me out onto the main road between Digne and Barreme. The wildest part was done. And I had rarely been so grateful to cover a few kilometers on a heavily trafficked road.

At the next junction, things were quieter again. A more remote road led me up to the next pass and then a gravel path back into the forest. Now and then, there were small settlements, but aside from the obligatory village wells, they had little to offer culinarily. The stage was quite long overall. It was only shortly before twilight that I reached the planned resting spot with a well and an abandoned ruin. So everything had gone well, and I was very satisfied. Until I checked the weather report for the next day. It had changed completely at the last minute. A low was supposed to pass through. Not good at all, since Saint-André-Les-Alpes was still a full day's stage away. Digne was around the corner, but that was where I wanted to get away from. It would be very frustrating if I ended up there again.

The next morning was really frosty and fresh. The tent was completely soaked through with humidity. No matter, the sky was still blue. At least until shortly after breakfast, then I was completely surrounded by thick clouds of fog.

Nevertheless, I would tackle the stage; the rain could wait a bit longer. After a pretty difficult and still wet trail with too many sections of pushing, the central ascent of the day awaited - up to 1500 meters. I felt the temperature drop another degree with every meter. The high humidity and the fog made everything even worse. However, I left my warm clothes in the backpack; they had to stay dry, otherwise I would have a problem after the tour when I was chilled, and my circulation drops. So I just had to shiver and move a lot to keep warm. Thanks to the last steep 400 vertical meters, at least the biological engine was running at maximum power.

I reached the pass without rain setting in. After a bit of descent, the sun even came out. The mountain range I had just crossed kept the clouds away from this valley. Thank goodness. It was a pleasure to surf into the valley in good spirits. The key section had been accomplished. Now just another hour and a half of relaxing biking on minor roads to Saint-André. From there, clouds met me again, which had evidently managed to come here by some other means. Just before the destination, a heavy hail shower caught me, and shortly after I arrived at the campsite, the rain really started.

Even after the sun came out again, an unpleasant, moist cold settled in. I was glad to warm up in a brasserie and not having to overnight somewhere in the mountains today. The campsite was the cheapest so far on my trip. It cost an unbeatable €7.22 per night. And for that, it was really cozy and well-equipped.

The next day was forecasted to be better, with the sun expected to be out all day. Thus, I could complete the last third of my round and ride over two trails to Barreme. However, without luggage, which stayed in Saint-André. Everything went well. But it remained frosty. Despite the sun, a biting wind provided a significant chill. The maximum temperature was 14 degrees, and at night it even dropped to 2 degrees. Nothing was supposed to change in the coming days either. I couldn’t believe it - I came to Provence because of the Mediterranean climate, and now it felt like late autumn at home. What on earth had happened?