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Rendezvous with the trauma

Published: 14.11.2018

The alarm clock rings at 2.15 am in the middle of the night because we want to climb Adam's Peak and marvel at the legendary sunrise. 1500 steps, 4 kilometers, and (allegedly) four hours of ascent separate us from this goal. Although we have hardly slept, we still manage to start this 'day' relatively fresh. Before we start properly, we pass two monks who bless us. Eight white strands, joined together to form a thread with a knot in the middle, are tied around the right wrist and become the 'holy thread' with a prayer. My flashlight serves us well so that we can find the right path in total darkness. By now, we have met several more pilgrims and continue to climb up the mountain. Bundled up thickly, it doesn't take long for us to start sweating. Since it quickly gets cold at the cool 5 degrees and with no movement, the breaks are not any better. So we have to walk as slowly as possible. We have asked at least five people (including a tour guide) about the required time for the ascent. They all said 'start at 2 am'. Now we have a dilemma and we are going too fast. Since I am afraid of reaching the top and having to endure at least two more hours in the cold, I often admonish us to maintain a leisurely pace. The last stretch still feels endless. The steps are sometimes so steep and high that my mood reaches its lowest point. I can't believe that I am once again struggling up endless stairs. Internally, I apologize to my body multiple times for the torture. Then, finally, the summit reveals itself and we are actually one hour early. If I thought the stairs were bad, now follows one of the longest hours on this journey. My top, long-sleeved shirt, and sweater are soaked with sweat, so I hide in a windless corner and hope for milder temperatures. Even my windbreaker does not provide enough warmth and I am freezing my butt off. Not even on the morning of the Thorung La Pass, I was so cold. I long for my down vest and gloves. In the meantime, Simone secures us a prime position in terms of the view of the sunrise. We are not alone, after all. Dozens of tourists have also set off at this early hour. At 5.45 am, I join Simone and can hardly wait for the first warming rays of the sun. After a few more agonizing minutes, this moment is truly spectacular. The mountains lie below us in the fog and their peaks protrude from the murky white. The sun bathes the clouds in a vivid orange and creates a kind of fantasy world. Minute after minute, the sun releases its power and warms our faces. We marvel at the fabulous landscape and enjoy the moment. Around 7 am, we descend again and are driven to the hotel by hunger. When I see Roti (local bread) and lentil soup, my appetite for the first meal of the day disappears. With a little hurry, we still manage to catch the bus at 9.30 am to Hotton. The journey is just as impressive as the train ride. We whiz past the tea plantations, which are revealing themselves in all their splendor for the first time today. The sun shines on the young light green leaves, making them shimmer and glow. The individual bushes are arranged in even rows that climb up the hills. Occasionally, colorful spots in the form of tea pickers appear in the green fields. I can't get enough of this sight. And once again, after the bus ride, we are extremely lucky and manage to get two second-class tickets to Ella at the last minute. Unfortunately, without seat reservations. After a short standing phase, we actually manage to get two seats next to each other and look forward to the next four hours (a bird dropping on Simone's cap really does wonders in terms of luck). Once again, the train races through an evergreen landscape with mountains in the background.

Arriving in Ella, we check into a wonderfully small and cute hotel. Three separate rooms in a bungalow with a terrace and a view of the mountains. We can call one of the rooms our own...at least for one night. The small town is quite busy. Many restaurants and bars are lined up next to each other and compete with each other with music. After countless days of rice, I order a burger for today. Simone sticks to the local cuisine. An absolutely long, eventful, and beautiful day comes to an end.

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