Bungalow search

First, we try Haad Salad, just north of Sritanu. I actually find the hidden turnoff to the beach and shortly thereafter, the first small, private bungalow complex. The landlady is about to leave and is delighted to hear that we are interested in her bungalows, as too many are vacant. She is happy to show us the bungalows leaning against the hill on high concrete stilts. They are clean, well-maintained, and spacious, even equipped with a kitchenette and refrigerator, which Darshi has always been looking for, and the view overlooks green palm trees towards the sea. Surprisingly, the price is not higher than our current accommodation, but we are not completely convinced, perhaps because of the very steep and high stairs. We take her business card and leave the disappointed woman. We walk a few meters to the beach. The path is lined with more well-maintained and mostly vacant bungalows, between which beautifully blooming trees and bushes grow, many of them frangipani. The beach is relatively small and narrow, but quiet and sandy. However, the bungalows we are looking for are all occupied at the desired time and cost twice as much as the ones a few meters further back. So, that option is quickly ruled out.

We continue on to Chaloklum, where we want to eat something. Chaloklum is a normal fishing village that also has some tourism, but it does not take away its original Thai character. We pass many closed shops and restaurants and cannot find the café operated by a Russian couple that we were looking for, probably closed. So, we settle in the next best restaurant, run by the female members of a family, the mother and several daughters, we assume. Each of the girls has a specific task, and it is unclear whether they enjoy doing it, as their enthusiasm is limited. Nevertheless, we occasionally receive a brief smile. From the terrace of the restaurant, we have a wonderful view of the crescent-shaped bay of Chaloklum. The pier disrupts the impression a bit, but the sun creates wonderful colors on the water.

I manage to persuade Darshi, who is tired, to make one last beach visit. We go to Haad Khom, not far from Chaloklum, leave the scooter at the top of the road, and walk down the rocky path. Halfway there, a small group of monkeys approaches us. The animals are so accustomed to humans and their offerings that they position themselves in calm anticipation with caution but without fear. Darshi finds a few nuts in his pocket and distributes them among the animals, who are surprisingly peaceful. I can take a few photos with my mobile phone, but I would prefer to have my big camera with me, which unfortunately remains unused in the hut. Before we reach the beach, Darshi complains about the mosquitoes, and when we reach the sea, he dislikes the Russian beachgoers, although there are really not many people around. The beach itself is wonderful, not very large and narrow, with palm trees and trees growing almost to the water and providing shade. We are shown two bungalows not far from there, which are in good condition but need to be awakened from their 2-year hibernation and cleaned, which is not a problem. However, the steep stairs are a bigger issue. Darshi does not want to come here anyway because of the mosquitoes and the few Russians and is also not willing to look at any other bungalows.

So, we head back home. With almost empty tank, I am about to turn towards Mae Haad when Darshi points out the entrance of a hotel that we read about the day before. We proceed up the very steep path to the top of the hill, park the scooter, and look around. The manager comes up to us smiling and eagerly offers to show us around. She talks incessantly and praises the advantages of the hotel. The location on the hill offers a magnificent view, both to the north of the sea and to the south over the jungle. We take a look at a bungalow clinging to the hill with the sea practically at its feet, the view is fantastic. The bungalow itself cannot be compared to the previous ones, this one is pure luxury. Panoramic windows, stone tiles, king-size bed, stylish furnishings including a refrigerator and TV, and of course air conditioning. The price is actually very moderate, only triple what we are paying now, but still too much for us. Not at all shocked, the chattering manageress continues to guide us through the complex, past the wonderfully situated pool to more bungalows facing southwest. These bungalows are not as lavishly styled as the first one, but in our opinion, they are still considered luxurious. We are ready to leave again, but we hesitate when the manageress tells us the surprisingly low price - she only wants 600 baht and even voluntarily reduces it to 500 because we are looking for two bungalows for several days.

500 baht! That's the same amount we are paying now for our run-down beach hut, it can't be true. But it is. We are totally amazed. Then we are sent a few meters up the hill, where a small bar awaits us with a fabulous view over the bay of Mae Haad and the sunset. We sit down and enjoy the view, feeling intoxicated by the sight and the thought of living here. But let's take it easy. As incredible as the offer sounds, it also has its drawbacks. The hotel is not only off the beaten path but also on top of a hill, so we need an additional scooter, without which nothing works. But do we really want to get on the scooter every time we want to go to the beach or a restaurant? We are torn. Once in a lifetime, you have the chance for such luxury, you have to seize it. Or do you?

We want to sleep on it. What is luxury? A stylishly furnished bungalow with all the comforts, off the beaten path, or a simple hut just a few steps from the sea where you can hear the gentle lapping of the waves, where exotic birds call from the trees, and where a hammock hangs in front of the door? Which kind of luxury is more important to us?