lenassurfingdiary
lenassurfingdiary
vakantio.de/lenassurfingdiary

My new love and the visit to the Australian National Surf Museum

Wotae: 01.05.2019

At the end of last weekend and therefore also at the end of the scheduled period for the Bells Beach Competition, a strong swell was approaching. People were talking about a historic 50-year swell.

Well, it must be said that the waves were not historic like in 1981 and less perfect due to the strong wind. For me, the larger waves and the rough conditions were exhausting, as the shore break and reaching the line-up were more difficult. After an unpleasant encounter with another surfer after a huge wipe-out, which caused a deep ding on my board, Kim promised me to surf at a more relaxed beginner beach, so Logan McKenzie, Kim's friend's daughter, joined us.

MacKenzie and I


Here, the waves and their size were more manageable for me. Nevertheless, the next few days were tough. The currents were strong, and I was mostly paddling against them instead of catching a wave. On Sunday, the swell decreased and after days of choppy waves, we finally had the glassy conditions I had hoped for.

Although I had repaired my ding amateurishly, water had still seeped in. A professional repair would have cost me more than a hundred bucks. Since I had already invested 50 € in the board, which is now worth no more than 250 €, I thought to myself - what does a girl love to do - let's go shopping!


First, I visited the famous Rip Curl Store with a huge selection of boards from various brands. However, I was quickly disappointed here. Besides a lack of advice - well, actually no advice because no one really paid attention to me - and prices that were way too high, I followed Kim's advice and went to the local Strapper Surf Shop.


In addition to their own boards, they also sell a wide range of boards from other manufacturers. Although I originally intended to buy an Aussie board from Strapper in Torquay, my heart stopped at the Channel Island Surfboard. And the best part of it all: the board was significantly reduced because it had a cosmetic flaw. Phew, what luck. I also got the Future fins and wax for free. I only paid half the price for the traction pad. Thanks Strapper Surf!




Feeling incredibly happy and with the perfect conditions, we went to Bells Beach Southside the next day. Although I thought I would have some trouble, since the board is now smaller than my old one and has less volume, I caught more waves than the entire previous week! AWSOME!



On Tuesday, the swell decreased even more, so we only surfed briefly in the morning. But the surf was first-class!

Unfortunately, there was no opportunity to surf today. That's why I decided to visit the surf museum. Since Kim had things to take care of, I had to deal with public transportation in Victoria. After some research that didn't bring much, meaning I wasn't really any smarter, I set off to find the bus stop.

I know, it sounds like I'm too dumb to ride the bus, but there aren't really pedestrian paths or bus stops on every corner here in Belmont. In addition, you have to buy a card and load money onto it to use the bus. According to the internet, this is only possible in certain stores.

Once I found the right bus stop and got on the bus, the nice bus driver helped me find the museum and where to get off. Because unlike in Germany, there are no announced or indicated stops here, you just have to know them. But once you start a conversation with an Aussie, you end up talking longer. So I had a nice conversation with the bus driver and she gave me good tips for further activities.

My tip: So far, I haven't met an Australian who isn't helpful and friendly. Everyone - no matter what age - is happy to help, have a chat, especially if you come from Europe. Although this is a surfing hotspot, not many tourists seem to come from overseas. Most tourists are from China or India. A German is something new.

So now that I've arrived in Torquay, I went to the Australian National Surf Museum. And I had it all to myself.


The Australian National Surf Museum tells the story of Australian surf culture.




From giant wooden boards brought from Hawaii to Australia, to the revolutionary development of the 3-fin system (Thruster), to old wetsuits and surfboards of the Bells Beach winners, you can also learn a lot about shaping boards, different fins, and glassing.








I was particularly impressed by the old models that were used to surf the 15-foot waves in 1981 and the stories of local surfers, especially around the hotspots of Torquay.












I finished my tour of the museum with several short films featuring various surfers or shapers with different backgrounds.


I think for surfers and anyone who is enthusiastic about surfing, the $12 admission fee is definitely worth it and almost a must when you're in Torquay.


After the museum visit, I treated myself to a quick visit to the Rip Curl Outlet.

With many impressions and a small purchase, I took the bus back. Here, too, a nice lady and the bus driver helped me find the right stop. 45 minutes later, I finally arrived back in Belmont.

And what could end a day better than being welcomed by Kim with a freshly homemade pizza. Thanks, mate!




Ŋuɖoɖo

Australia
Mɔzɔzɔ ŋuti nyatakakawo Australia
#torquay#belmont#bellsbeach#bellsbeachsouthside#surfen#australiannationalsurfmuseum#surfmuseum#australien#southwestaustralia#australien