August 2022/II Serbia, North Macedonia

On the day when we cycled for 2 months and 2500 km through Eastern Europe, we dance the travel blues. Maik starts, I join in shortly afterwards. It's going to be a longer dance.

Oh no!

This section of Eurovelo 11, which goes from north to south through Serbia, can also seem a bit bleak if you are not in the joy of travel and freedom. Agricultural areas alternate with industrial areas, and villages are lined up with small towns and villages again. The charm of the unknown turns into anxious uncertainty on such a day. The body is tired and waits in vain for a daily routine with a shower and rest on the couch. The idea of training no longer counts.

And suddenly - on these slightly clouded days - the soul is kissed by an encounter with people and a pack of dogs who simply invite us to shower with them, give us their time and a fraction of their history - and thereby lead us a little way out of "aloneness in the world". That keeps me moving on with great joy in the world and its people.

Thank you Margarete! Thank you Tomas! For coffee, for hot water, shampoo, and towels!!!

By the way, the landscape slowly and only briefly changes into a lush, wooded hilly one.

The heat of the last days in Serbia, on the route from Aleksinac to Niš to Vranje, seems to increase with the altitude. Both barely noticeable but continuous. An impending change in weather is diffusely tangible. The nights bring cooling in these August days, a fresh breeze makes us breathe a sigh of relief every evening.

In and around the old city of Niš, we are confronted with the history of this country in different ways. Almost incidentally, a man, maybe only 10 years older than Maik, tells us about the bombs in the last war.

We spend the night in Bobanj Park in memory of the execution of resistance fighters and unwanted people by the Nazis 80 years ago. The atmosphere here is peaceful. The use of this park for leisure and celebrations has turned a place of horror into a beautiful place with a peaceful atmosphere.

The physical tiredness is really great these days, and the heart still sometimes aches far away from home.

We suspect that the landscape will only become interesting again when we reach the border of North Macedonia. For that, we have to go into the mountains - at least to climb a few meters in altitude. The weather forecast announces daily thunderstorms.

During a day off in Vranje, before the last stage in Serbia, we don't really know where to go. There is tension in the air.

Once again, an encounter changes so much. Time with and gestures from people give us new energy. Not only that! Our tired bodies, our bikes are taken with the motorhome across the border to Skopje. Just like that, because we asked, because it's possible.

We roll unexpectedly quickly this time on the highway from one country to the next. No mountains here, everything quite fast.

Thank you Edda! Thank you Hinnerk! For your time, for chocolate!

I also thank this country, whose roads we felt under us for three weeks!

Thank you Serbia! For your many gifts along the way. For Burek and watermelon! For encouraging thumbs up during mountain stages. For considerate trucks that trundled along behind us at walking pace. Thank you for frozen tap water from the black-clad widow! Thank you for the shower at the waterworks after a sweaty day! Thank you to a country that is in the process of renewing itself and seems to lose the thread in the middle of it.

So now North Macedonia - starting in the capital Skopje. Oversized statues and countless of them adorn the center and apparently want to represent the entire history of mankind. From a male perspective. With heroes and thinkers and virgins and self-sacrificing mothers...

As I read, Skopje underwent a renewal about 10 years ago. The then city government considered the investments in monumental buildings and over 100 statues - one of which is the representation of "Alexander the Great" at a height of 30m, adorning the town square - as visionary. The majority of the population would have preferred something else, and Greece felt offended by the placement of the mentioned hero.

Anyway, as a tourist, I can appreciate the unusual cityscape and like the contrast to the old bazaar.

The daily thunderstorms keep us here for a few days. Also nice, as we usually avoid cities.

We would have missed something here!

A hike in the mountains of Matka Canyon finally restores our joy of traveling. We breathe mountain air, immerse ourselves in the incredible beauty of nature, enjoy the peace and the air and the greenery of the trees and the water.

When we set off after days, we are full of energy. Rested, full and clean, the bikes serviced, the clothes freshly washed. The hilly countryside through which we wind on the first day of our journey is a treat for the eye and soul. The stages to our next destination, Lake Ohrid, are carefully considered.

Mountains accompany us on both sides - partly lushly wooded, partly barren and sparsely bushy. We are finally allowed to leave the main road and cycle on small roads through the day. Towards Lake Mavrovo. North Macedonia welcomes us here with open, warm-hearted people who are happy to have a chat and even invite us for coffee:))

To get to the lake and the corresponding national park, we first have to climb 1400 meters in altitude. The first pass awaits us.

We slowly wind our way up. The traffic is heavy, but a two-lane highway offers enough space for us to pedal up at our own pace (6 km/h)

At the 1000m bend, there is a small café. Igor the landlord turns out to be an enthusiastic yogi. We listen and are once again delighted by the surprises along the way. We reach the Mavrovo National Park with its lake in the afternoon. An official campsite allows us to end the cycling day here. We watch the clouds play and listen to the roll of thunder - is the weather coming or passing? In this moment, we are very happy to be able to linger in such beautiful and different places.

The next day, we are in for an incredible descent. We zoom down 30 km along a narrow gorge along the river Radika. The mountains tower above us. Again and again, small villages can be seen high above - few houses and in the middle, the two tower spires of a mosque. What an unfamiliar and wonderful sight. Until shortly before Struga and thus our destination, Lake Ohrid, we marvel at and enjoy this truly beautiful nature.

The heart dances and laughs - the joy of travel and the ecstasy of freedom caress us again.