At the Chilean coast

16.12. After breakfast, we start our second attempt to visit the Siete Tazas National Park. This time it is successful and we can admire the waterfalls. However, the path down to the riverbank is closed due to bacteria in the river. After that, we head towards Constituciòn. We will spend the next few days on the Chilean coast. It feels good to be back at the sea! We find an aging campground right by the beach. From there, we walk along the impressive cliffs all the way to Constituciòn. We share a mixed fish plate and can taste some coastal specialties. We go out to take photos at sunset. It is a beautiful and wild atmosphere, the waves are high, some brave people are swimming in the cold Pacific, and there are a few young men bouldering next to us. Eventually, we even spot some seals on a cliff ledge. It is not until after 10 PM that we cook a delicious pasta - once again, we enjoy being able to cook for ourselves.

17.12. The journey continues and takes us to Curanipe for lunch. We need internet to plan our next steps. We find a cafe at the harbor first (great coffee, hooray!) and then enjoy freshly caught Reineta fish, a local specialty. After that, we continue our drive. We come across an eco-campground called Queltehues. It is run by three young sisters and is a true gem: hammocks, swimming in the river, and a clubhouse with a well-equipped kitchen and cozy seating areas - we immediately feel at home here. It has three dogs, including Pitbull baby Pasquale. He is cute but unfortunately lacks training and is still a baby, which means he is very playful. We take a nap in the tent when the little berserker decides that he wants to join us. The net of the inner tent suffers from his sharp claws... We are annoyed because it seems like the owners are not around and the dogs can roam freely and get bored. Later, we have a conversation and can come to a good agreement! (And you can't stay mad at baby Pasquale for long anyway) In the evening, we visit Calan's Arcs and the Stone Church, a rock that really looks like a cathedral with its "cave system". Back at the campground, we cook in the clubhouse. A Chilean couple and a young adventurer join us. Together, we spend the evening with wine, good conversations, and enjoying the nice encounter until late at night.

18.12. Our journey continues towards Concepciòn. On the way, we stop in Dichato for lunch where we eat fish and treat ourselves to a "Mote con Huesillo". That's a typical Chilean drink dessert with wheat and peach. Who comes up with such ideas? We visit the Rio BioBio Nature Reserve at its river mouth. Many people use the park for relaxation and barbecuing. We read by the lakeside and enjoy watching the flying spectacle of the numerous seagull colonies. Towards evening, we find Camping Los Queules. Upon arrival, we find the reception closed and it seems like no one is in charge. It feels like the campground is abandoned and at the same time, it is full of people: families, an outdoor religious service,... there is a lot going on. When it gets dark, most people go back home. We think that it will be a quiet night. But we're completely wrong: there is a man camping next to us who is not averse to alcohol. He talks loudly with his friends and depending on his mood swings, he either shouts, screams, or howls in the area as the alcohol level rises. Not to mention the music system, powered by a car battery - that's why the car has to be started with a screech from time to time... oh, it's a long and exhausting night.