17.09.2016 Tonga # Light and Shadow in Tongatapu

Our stay in Tonga is the best example that things don't always go as planned or imagined. It actually started in Rarotonga, where we randomly looked at the reviews for our pre-booked accommodation in Eu'a. There were a few more reviews by then and they didn't promise anything good. There were talks of dirty bedding, bugs in the bed, and various problems with the ferry connection. Usually, we don't let reviews influence us too much, but that made us think. Especially since the email contact about diving was very poor. We quickly changed everything and our stay would now be limited to the main island of Tongatapu.

After arriving at Fua'moto Airport in Nuku'alofa, the first shock was that there was no one to pick us up. But that's where the exceptional friendliness of the Tongans immediately showed. A taxi driver noticed our confusion and offered to help. Of course, it's a business for him, but considering he already had a passenger, that wasn't necessarily expected. In the end, we even paid less than the agreed-upon price for the pickup.

For the first five days, we stayed at the "Tropical Villa" with Mele and her husband, whose name I still don't know today. The accommodation is in Puke, about 4km from the city center of Nuku'alofa, surrounded by lush greenery. The only downside is the lack of sea view and the distance to the city, but otherwise, the spacious and clean accommodation is very comfortable. Especially since we are almost the only guests and therefore almost undisturbed. If needed, we can have breakfast and dinner at the Little Italy, 3.8 km away. Somehow, the two houses seem to belong together. One call to Mele is enough and we will be chauffeured there. Free, of course. We only had breakfast there once and then switched to self-catering. It's simply more affordable and we can take our time in the morning. However, we indulged in dinner every day. The food was really excellent. Pizza, pasta, meat, and fish dishes in a wide selection and at a very fair price.

Self-catering had its challenges, of course. Certain things can only be bought in the city. So we had to get a means of transport. A local driver's license is required for that. Usually, the police station issues it without any problems for a small fee. Now we stood in front of the station building and were shocked to find that it was almost completely gutted. Fortunately, there was a uniformed person who sent us to the Ministry of Infrastructure. It's not even a 10-minute drive by taxi. And just as long to drive back to the city after realizing that my passport was still at the accommodation. So there won't be a car after all, instead, we'll rent bicycles.

Two days later, we find out that they are lenient here if you only rent the vehicle for one day. So we spontaneously decide to take a tour of the island on our own. Since the husband has a few cars for his own guests, we can start right after breakfast. The formalities are limited to a short briefing about the Toyota and handing over the keys. Easy :-) Since the island is not very big, you can comfortably visit all the sights in half a day. Driving on the left is not a problem and if there are more paths or roads than indicated on the map, you can always rely on Google Maps. Even when the main road becomes a semi-paved dirt road through palm plantations and rainforests, you never really feel like you're going the wrong way. It could get tight in case of a breakdown though. Without a phone in the middle of the green hell, you have to be found first. Otherwise, driving here is pretty relaxed and above all slow. This is due to the fact that the condition of the roads rarely allows for faster driving and the age of the vehicles. Surprisingly, a large number of cars are apparently more than 20 years old and just plain dilapidated. Things are not easily thrown away here.

As mentioned, the Tongan people are extremely friendly and approachable. It's not uncommon to be greeted even from moving cars. Apart from that, the people here are also very religious. From what we have seen so far, Tongatapu has the highest density of churches per square kilometer. On Sundays, the whole public life here comes to a standstill. You can confidently sit in the middle of the road in the capital without fearing to be run over. Only the parking lots at the countless churches are crowded. The missionaries must have done a great job here after the first of their kind were eaten.

This time we wanted to go diving with Deep Blue Diving, the only dive center we found on the internet beforehand. After personally visiting them and making two diving appointments and one for whale swimming, everything seemed fine. Then the first diving appointment comes, but our pick-up doesn't show up. Okay, Tonga time, we think and wait. At some point, we call the dive center and learn that the boat is broken and there won't be any diving today. Great..

The next day is the whale swimming. Again, the same story, no one to pick us up. After the call, we breathe a sigh of relief, the taxi is just late. Eventually, we set off. Together with about 20 others, we embark on an old, underpowered boat. Luckily, the weather is particularly good today. We haven't seen this much sun in Tonga yet. The temperatures have always been pleasant, but mostly gray and cloudy. A good sign? Describing the whole event would exceed the scope now. It somehow felt like a hunt. Especially when the captain almost drives into a whale. That was more like whale watsching than watching. Finally, we see the humpback whales up close for the first time, jumping, playing, escaping (?). Unfortunately, we are not fortunate enough to see them underwater, as it's all a bit peculiar and random. Well, we still have Samoa and Fiji ahead of us. Maybe there will be another opportunity there.

After returning to the dive center, the next setback. Diving is completely cancelled, the boat won't be ready in time. Maybe we have also fallen victim to the many whale watchers, we're not completely sure. So there will be a gap in the logbook...

After five days, we move. The Seaview Lodge is the only one of the originally booked accommodations that is still available. At least we won't be disappointed. A clean hotel within walking distance of the city center of Nuku'alofa. Less space than before in the villa, but a balcony with a sea view.

A folklore evening at Oholei Beach with a lavish buffet rounds off our stay. We learn something about Tongan culture and the different influences from outside. It was quite funny and interesting and will certainly contribute to us remembering Tonga fondly.

This afternoon we fly to Samoa via Fiji. We are very curious about what awaits us there.

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