Brazil, Porto Alegre

After the last extremely cozy days in La Pedrera, we finally embarked on the journey to Brazil (against the resistance of our own inner laziness). We were supposed to take the bus from Rocha (about a 30-minute drive from La Pedrera) to Porto Alegre overnight: departure at 10:33 PM from the Ancap gas station, arrival at 7:45 AM in Porto Alegre.

After Jörg kindly drove us to the gas station, we asked an attendant if the bus would actually depart from here. To our great relief, he confirmed. However, he also informed us that we should expect it to be 1-2 hours later than scheduled. So, as the only obvious bus passengers, we sat with our large backpacks in the simple café of the gas station bistro. Unfortunately, after about 15 minutes, we were kindly asked to leave, as the bistro or the supermarket is only open until 10 PM. After that, there is only one saleswoman who is obliged to sell her goods through a gate at the door. For us, that meant we had to sit outside next to the toilets. After 1.5 hours with stray dogs, numerous toilet visitors, and several trucks, our bus finally arrived: the journey could begin!

Contrary to my experiences in Southeast Asia, the bus ride turned out to be surprisingly pleasant. There were comfortable seats that could be reclined almost to the point where your head would be on the lap of the person behind you. There was also a device where you could rest your legs, so you could almost lay flat like in a bed. In addition, there were two toilets on board and a steward who supplied us with blankets and water. So, we slept quite well under the circumstances until the sun came up and we were about 2 hours away from Porto Alegre. As is appropriate for a long-distance bus trip, we were served coffee and cookies for breakfast.

From the bus window, we could already catch the first glimpses of Porto Alegre and see several stadiums from afar (maybe one of them was the stadium where Germany played against Algeria in the World Cup?). Porto Alegre is located on the banks of the huge South Water Lagoon called Lagoa dos Patos and is the most important port city in southern Brazil. The cityscape is characterized by ugly concrete buildings and several beautiful neoclassical buildings. We agreed: This must be the ugliest city in Brazil!

Accordingly ugly and shady was also the bus station where we arrived. I had already booked a hotel for us that is relatively close to the bus station, so that we could quickly move on the next day. I had also read on the internet that we should be a bit careful because the way from the station to the hotel leads through a not-so-nice neighborhood. In the guidebook, it says: the crime rate is worrying. Even during the day, one feels more uncomfortable in Porto Alegre than in other Brazilian cities.

Therefore, we first went to the tourist information to find out the exact way there. After all, we didn't want to walk through the city like obvious tourists with a map in hand. The very sober woman explained to us how we would find the street from the labyrinth of the station and mentioned several times that the way there is 'peligroso' (dangerous). After buying our bus tickets for the next day, we decided to take a taxi. Unfortunately, the ATMs refused to give us any money and since we didn't have Brazilian Reals, we ultimately had to walk to the hotel. Long story short: we survived and even though the neighborhood wasn't particularly inspiring, we made it to the hotel in 7 minutes.

Some square with a view of the port

Freshly showered and strengthened with empanadas, we went out to explore the city. In vain, we searched for a central square between several skyscrapers, huge streets going up and down, and smaller alleys. Therefore, we decided to head for a museum that was supposed to have a nice café (according to the guidebook). With the help of a friendly passerby, we found it and sat down in the very green square next to the museum.

Tired and disappointed from walking around in the city, we decided to make the best of it and go to the Italian restaurant recommended in the guidebook (with asterisks!) for lunch. The Atelier das Massas is very hidden in an inconspicuous street and is a charming restaurant with a huge antipasti counter, several dusty wine bottles and pictures on the wall, as well as several rustic old waiters. We ordered a glass of Vinho de Casa and wide, homemade ribbon pasta with beef fillet and a red wine cream sauce: pure poetry! Obviously, we were also the only foreigners in the restaurant (and also in the entire city). Porto Alegre has apparently not yet become a popular tourist destination.

With a bib, I stare at the food

After a little chat with the nice waiters (including about the 7:1 against Brazil), we were in much better spirits and went to the Mercado. Then we went back to the hotel. We didn't go out again. We had seen everything and decided to spend the evening in the hotel with a can of beer and chips.

Tomorrow we will continue to Praia do Rosa!