I did it! I have landed back in civilization after hiking in Torres del Paine, one of Chile's most famous national parks, for several days. I started the trek from Puerto Natales and arrived at the entrance after a two-hour bus ride. Here, I had to pay the entrance fee and prove that I had reservations for all nights either at the campgrounds or in the refugios - a requirement to start the trek. There are two trekking options in Torres del Paine. The more popular one is the 'W' trek, which resembles the letter when viewed from above. I had planned to do the 'O' circuit, the longer and more challenging route, which was recommended if you have enough time - little did I know. A total of 130 km (including the 'W'), walking exclusively counterclockwise and being at the mercy of nature in the backcountry - if something were to happen to you here, you can only get out by horse or your own strength, as there are no roads or options for helicopters. After completing all the formalities and taking one last shuttle, I shouldered my (heavy) backpack and started my journey - into the wilderness, more or less optimistic about how I would survive the coming days.
Laguna Amarga - one of the entrances
Day 1 - Central to Séron
The hike started in the late morning and was estimated to take 4.5 hours for 13 km. The weather was excellent, with the sun shining from a blue sky with sporadic clouds. Based on my experience on the Camino de Santiago in Spain, I started the hike comfortably and at a leisurely pace. I quickly got to know my fellow hikers who would accompany me for the next few days, as the overnight stays were mostly the same for everyone on the O circuit. The trail went well, and the scenery was overwhelming. Even horses (wild??) crossed our path. When I arrived at the Séron campground, I set up my tent for the first time in actual use - not so easy on the wooden planks, as stakes are not very effective. But eventually, the tent was up, and due to the increasing wind, we sought refuge in the cooking hut. As the evening approached, the wind picked up and blew forcefully over the tents. Finally crawling into my tent to sleep, I quickly realized that my sleeping bag was not sufficient. Without the sun, it had quickly gotten cold, and no amount of layering clothes could help - I simply had the wrong sleeping bag for the trek. And I didn't get any sleep that night.
Shoes off and through!Horses on the trailCampsite Séron
Day 2 - Séron to Dickson
Tired and cold, I packed up my tent the next morning and started the second day of hiking alone. It started off relatively flat and was pleasant in the morning. But then came the first real climb - steep uphill, and I realized why I should have done more exercise before this trip. After a few short breaks and being completely out of breath, I finally made it to the top, where I was greeted by strong gusts of wind that repeatedly knocked me off balance. It remained that way, and my fellow hikers and I continued to struggle against the wind with our body weight. Around noon, it started to rain, so my phone had to stay in my pocket, as it would for many days to come. After a long 18 km, I arrived at the Dickson campground, where the rain turned to snow, which increased in intensity. Due to my experience the previous night and the exhaustion of the day, I booked a bed in the refugio (luckily one was available), hoping to escape the snow and cold. I described my sleeping bag situation to the ranger, as I was quite concerned about the weather and the upcoming elevation gain and glaciers (and the resulting cold). Together, we adjusted my plans and reservations, giving me hope that I would make it out of this park alive. From that point on, money was no longer a concern - I was willing to do whatever it took to make it through: rent a sleeping bag, book a bed instead of a campsite, have my meals cooked instead of cooking in the cold. Lesson of the day: I don't like camping! (Admittedly, the starting conditions for my first camping experience were not the best, as confirmed by the camping experts around me.) Campsite Dickson
Day 3 - Dickson to Los Perros
On the third day, I was feeling more confident now that I had a survival plan. The route today was supposed to be a more relaxed 11.8 km, and I took my time with breakfast. It didn't get cold while walking but afterward when the body cooled down while still wearing wet clothes. So I tried to delay that moment for as long as possible. I really enjoyed the route through forests - it felt like home, and I practically flew through the trail effortlessly. It started raining again soon, though, and intensified by the afternoon. But the first glimpse of a glacier made up for it - we were getting closer to the mountains. When I arrived at Los Perros, I rented a warm sleeping bag for the night (about €18!). After a cozy (and cold) evening in the cooking hut, I slipped into my two sleeping bags and had a warm and cozy night :)
Day 4 - Los Perros to Grey Lodge
The hardest day awaited me - a climb of about 420 meters and then a descent of 1,200 meters in just three kilometers. What initially started out as relatively easy soon turned into a challenge I had never experienced before. The landscape began with forests, then turned into scree, snow, and finally we were walking only on ice and snow. It crossed the John Gardner Pass, and it was tough. Three of us hiked together - it is strongly recommended not to go alone. Hiking uphill so steeply on such terrain was something I had never done before. The muscles in my legs hurt with every step, and they struggled to carry my bodyweight and backpack. But we had to keep going, there was no turning back, and there was no way out other than with our own strength. Step by step, we fought our way forward, with increasing wind that forced us to stop and crouch down again and again. But eventually, we made it - we reached the highest point, and in front of us was a rocky plain, and beyond that, the gigantic Grey Glacier. An impressive view that made me forget the effort, and from that point on, I felt a mix of adrenaline, endorphins, and incredible pride for the rest of the day.
What goes up must come down, and now the descent began. The relief that the uphill part was behind us quickly turned into intense concentration and effort. Going downhill is indeed very strenuous. But with already tired and aching legs, combined with slippery snow, then slippery mud, and steps created by roots, it became a challenge of its own kind. I don't think there was anyone in our group who didn't slip and fall in the snow or mud at least once by the end of the day. But in the end, it's all part of the experience :) After a long 6 km, we arrived at the Paso campground. I had originally booked an overnight stay here. However, since there were no sleeping bags or a refugio, I changed my plans two days earlier and decided to hike one more station to the Grey Lodge. Another 10.5 km to go. But I was feeling good, so I just quickly refilled my water bottle and continued, this time alone (I make better and more positive progress that way). The second part was adventurous: we climbed between cracks in the rocks, walked along cliffs (what if my legs give way and I fall backward?...), through forests, and over three suspension bridges. After nine hours without significant breaks, I arrived at the Grey Lodge around 3:30 pm. And there, a wonderful, soft bed and a cola were waiting for me - I felt wonderful.
The first view of the glacier from the top of the pass
