Udgivet: 14.09.2018
This was supposed to be an overview, to roughly keep you updated on where we are and what we're experiencing. The reason for these detailed texts is our sieve-like brains. We decided to use this blog as our travel diary and also enjoy laying in the tent in the evenings and reflecting on the day. Now let's continue with our journey through Montenegro.
We found our overnight spot close to a village and near the entrance to the national park, from where we could easily start the next day. After oats (with cranberries) and some exercise while the rooftop tent dried in the sun, we set off. Since we were only semi-prepared and wanted to be surprised by the national park, our first stop was the tourist information. Boom: bought a hiking map and booked a rafting tour. A short walk around the 'Black Lake' and some shopping and the day was over again due to the long relaxed morning. At around 4 pm, we settled down by a small lake in a plain with the mountains as a beautiful backdrop. After dinner and preparation for the next day, including preparing the oats, we snuck into the rooftop tent and listened to nature, the chirping of birds by the water, and the sounds of sheep in the nearby pasture. The sun slowly disappeared behind the mountains... We embarked on this journey for moments like these.
When the alarm rang at 5:00 am the next morning, it was foggy. Since we wanted to take on the supposedly most challenging hike to the highest peak in Durmitor National Park - Bobotov Kuk (2509m high) - we rested until 5:50 am, hoping the fog would clear. The ascent provided breathtaking viewpoints, steep exposed passages, cool fresh mountain air, and a clear sky. Karsi had to climb the last 30 meters alone and admire the view, as Lotti didn't dare to descend. There was a break with sandwiches and a companion who was content with little: a cute wild dog joined us about 3m away and enjoyed the sun with us just below the summit. On the descent, there was initially heavy traffic (tourists from all over the world) and at about 2100m altitude, we encountered a shepherd with his countless sheep. After we arrived exhausted at the car and were able to cool off in a bathing lake on the way to the previous night's spot, we enjoyed the evening sun. As soon as we sat in our camping chairs, another shepherd arrived with his sheep. They were purposefully led to the lake next to us and all galloped into the water just enough to drink. Then they were led back to the pasture. Apparently a well-rehearsed routine. By now, the sun really determines the day: when it rises, we get up - when it sets, we go to bed... So we are already in the rooftop tent at 6:40 pm, letting the last minutes of sun soak in.
Day 11 of our journey. We are enjoying the trip through Montenegro and thanks to the sun accompanying us now and the great impressions so far, we are planning the upcoming days with optimism. Another realization: this type of traveling is not as spontaneous as expected, instead, we try to make efficient use of the days with a mix of hiking, sightseeing, driving, and finding a place to sleep (but that could also be due to our characters). We also realized how much waste we produce despite living a relatively simple life and how much water we need. We live from a 15l canister, 3 1.5l bottles (one serves as a shower), and a teapot in which we brew tea for the next day in the evening. All of this is refilled at fresh water sources along the way.
But now to the day: it was time for the rafting tour. As expected, everything was very tourist-oriented and somewhat mass-produced. But paddling in the gorge was fun and there was a lot to see again. In the end, we jumped from a cliff 4 to 5 meters high into the Tara River (12°C water temperature). Back at the familiar bridge, Karsi took a second look at the gorge from above with zip-lining, 380m in height over the river (that would be something for Alex). Once the shivering knees were calmed, we continued towards the next scheduled stop: Kolasin. On the way, we quickly stopped at a spring to refill water, and then it happened: Willie hit Lotti with the trunk door... Knockout with the first blow. Cold compress, some water, a few minutes lying on her back, and half a ibuprofen helped Lotti back on her feet, even though it now looks like Karsi is throwing punches at night. But to everyone's concerns: don't worry, Willie and Lotti are okay and have made up with each other.
Arriving in Kolasin, we quickly went to the tourist information for a hiking map. We wanted to choose an easy one this time and have a relaxed 12th day. Although there were no maps available, we were helped to find a hopefully easy route. So we continued and had a short and successful search for a sleeping place just outside the town. Chef Karsi prepared delicious number soup from the Knorr kitchen, and VeilchenLotti prepared tea and... Right, oats... with apple.
After a restful night, we were awakened at 6:20 am by the chainsaw we already knew. The existing 13 degrees made the morning enjoyable with cappuccino and delicious porridge under a slightly cloudy sky. Even the chainsaw fell silent. After the strengthening meal, we started the day with a leisurely hike around Kolasin. There were fantastic viewpoints again, tasty treats (plums, apples, and something yellow plum-like), and interesting encounters. The path led us into a cloud of smoke, which turned out to be caused by a (presumably) smokehouse, unfortunately we couldn't ask properly, our Montenegrin is rather limited.
The drive to Skardar Lake National Park took us through the capital Podgorica. The temperature on the thermometer rose from 23 degrees to 33 degrees.
Arriving at the national park, the lake was filled with countless water lilies, while the roads were filled with tourists - not a place for us. So we continued despite the impressive scenery towards Kotor. The search for a suitable, quiet place to spend the night led us to another national park: Lovcen. From P1, with its 25 hairpin bends leading to Lovcen, you could see the sea, coastal towns, and the evening sun. The road to our sleeping spot turned out to be a 10 km long gravel road - a road under construction without asphalt. After the long drive, the sweet potato soup and a shower felt really good! Now we'll see if the construction workers continue building the road-to-be at night or if we can sleep peacefully.
And we were allowed to, except for the howling of dogs, but that's typical here. All in all, a restful night with a delicious scrambled egg breakfast. Then we headed to the heart of the national park. Willie, who had faithfully brought us through everything so far, had to conquer the last hairpin bends of the park as well. We took a wrong turn once and suddenly found ourselves at the mausoleum on the mountain peak. So we quickly took a tour and continued, after all, we still wanted to hike. Next stop was the visitor center, which provided us with maps and an optimal moderately difficult route. 18km with beautiful changing scenery, from forest and gravel roads to mountain ridges overlooking the bays of the Adriatic Sea. Back at the car, we only wanted an uncomplicated afternoon after spending so much time driving the day before. So we stopped at a spring 300m later to replenish our water supply and another 300m later on a beautiful grassy plain as a spot for the rest of the day and night. Lotti diligently chopped to provide us with half of our 7kg watermelon, and after reading time, eating, and showering, we went straight to the rooftop tent.
Another dreamlike early morning, with the sun friendly shining towards us from behind the small hill. Willie brought us over the gravel road and the 25 hairpin bends to the town of Kotor. The old town of Kotor, surrounded by water, steep cliffs, and an old fortress wall, impressed us with its small rustic houses, narrow streets, and interesting shops. Of course, tourism dominates the old town, but we were early enough to avoid the worst crowd. After a tasty breakfast, we finished the sightseeing and continued the journey towards Croatia. On the way, we stopped in the small but fine village of Perast and walked along a narrow alley, past empty, abandoned houses reclaimed by nature, towards the waterfront. After a short walk, we continued to the EU border. The controls took a bit longer this time, but we were still able to enjoy the afternoon in a sunny spot on the hillside with a view of the Croatian coast and the Bosnian mountain border. Tomorrow, one last detour to another EU country (Bosnia) for an indefinite period, and then through Croatia, Slovenia, and Austria back to Germany.