First Game Drive

Day 15, 11.01.23, Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch

What a start to the day: at sunrise, we sit on the veranda with a fresh cup of coffee and watch as the Kalahari awakens before us in an incredible light. Without words, we remain silent and savor the moment.

The Kalahari (also known as the Kgalagadi) is a thornbush savannah, sometimes referred to as a dry savannah, but occasionally called a desert due to the predominant sand. It stretches on either side of the southern Tropic of Capricorn from the South African province of Northern Cape through Namibia and Botswana, covering an area of over one million square kilometers. It is part of the larger Kalahari Basin, which extends into Angola and Zambia.

After a short yoga session with Cindy, we head to breakfast and start the day off calmly. Around noon, Cindy decides to go on a gravel bike tour. Since the path to the gate is pure sand, I drive her there and we encounter Santos, the gate guard, who looks at us with surprise. It's the first time he has allowed someone to ride through the gate on a bike. We strike up a conversation, and he tells us a little about his life. He lives at the gate for the entire season, with a small room right there equipped with a bed, a kitchenette, and a toilet, spending 24 hours a day there. He likes the job because he meets new people and experiences a lot, just like our arrival this morning. In April, he plans to go towards Swakopmund for a few weeks. From the way he speaks, you can tell that he is very content with his life, and he is not only friendly but also laughs a lot. Fascinating!

After sending Cindy off on her journey, I return to the chalet, grab a cool drink, sit on the veranda, and continue writing a bit of our travel story. Unfortunately, later on, the strong wind forces me to move to the main lodge.

By early afternoon, I drive back to the gate to pick up Cindy, not without taking a few Cokes for Santos, as he requested. It's perfect timing – we arrive simultaneously, and I receive a sweaty, exhausted but happy Cindy. After a brief chat with Santos, we say goodbye and head back.

A quick dip in the pool, and then we're back on the program: at 4 p.m., we embark on a so-called Combination Drive: first a small safari, then cheetah feeding, and finally, a sundowner on the dune.

Emanuel, our guide for the next few hours, greets us. After a brief introduction, we set off and experience a very beautiful scenic drive with many explanations and descriptions from Emanuel about the Kalahari and its flora and fauna. Among other things, we learn that even giraffes and oryx eat the bones of dead animals, that the dung of the white rhino contains more grass compared to the brown rhino, which is more woody, about the drought two years ago that killed almost all the animals here, the acacia tree whose roots grow up to 45 meters deep, keeping it green all year round, and much more.

We encounter oryx, kudus, springboks, various birds, giraffes, and zebras. We think to ourselves, what more could we want and simultaneously have the same answer ready: rhinos! However, they are not showing themselves at the moment, not yet...

After about 2 hours, we proceed to the cheetah feeding. In Bagatelle, there are 6 cheetahs that lost their mother shortly after birth and were taken in here. We witness the feeding of the six cheetahs up close and receive detailed and very interesting explanations from a trained cheetah ranger:

In collaboration with the CCF (Cheetah Conservation Fund), the Bagatelle Lodge is a recognized place for the preservation of this species. The six orphans are kept in a 24-hectare enclosure, lovingly nurtured and cared for. They cannot be reintroduced into the wild as they would not be able to survive. According to Namibian law, it is also forbidden for cheetahs in captivity to have offspring.

Currently, there are only about 7,100 cheetahs living in the wild worldwide. One of CCF's programs is the Livestock Guarding Dog (LGD) program. CCF breeds Anatolian Shepherds and Kangal dogs to become LGDs. As puppies, LGDs are given to Namibian farmers. The puppies bond with the herds and, as they grow up, their size and loud barking help deter predators.

Immediately after that, we head to the sundowner on the dune. However, on the way, Emanuel receives news that the rhinos are nearby. Who needs a sundowner, we think, and set off in search. We drive up a sand dune, and there he stands – Bruno, the white rhino – blocking our path. And just to make sure we don't continue driving, Grace stands behind him and covers his flank. Fascinatingly, we observe as the two approach our vehicle, curious about our presence. Bruno seems particularly interested in Cindy and attempts to gently poke her with his horn. Disappointed by Cindy's lack of a love response, he moves away and follows his actual girlfriend.

The white rhino is the fourth-largest land mammal on earth – only the African and Asian elephants are larger. Rhinos are easily recognizable by their large, wide mouths, which give them their name. In the grassland ecosystem, they act as "lawn mowers," keeping the vegetation short. With their broad, angular lips, they can bite off grass stalks directly above the ground. For almost 15 years, Africa has been experiencing a rhino poaching crisis. Rhinos fall victim to the fact that powdered horn is believed to have fever-reducing, detoxifying, antispasmodic, and now even cancer-healing properties in parts of Asia. Thanks to intensive conservation efforts, the population has now recovered to over 15,000 individuals. However, there are only two female northern white rhinos left in the world.

We quickly take a few photos and then manage to make it to the sundowner just in time before the sun sets. We bid farewell with a gin and tonic and toast to another great and eventful day.

After a delightful dinner, this time with more international presence around us, we run into Emanuel on our way outside and decide to sit down for a drink together. He tells us about his ranger training, places he has worked before, areas that still intrigue him, and what he still wants to experience. We listen with anticipation and interest, thinking about what an exciting and eventful life he leads.