The morning starts earlier than usual for me. It's noticeable that I slept in a hostel with over 40 people in the room last night. It was freezing cold in the hostel. There was only one gas heater for the whole room. So I didn't mind getting dressed properly and getting moving again. It was 1 degree Celsius and I first walked through the center of Estella until I found a bakery just before I left the town where I could sit down and have breakfast.
After the next town, I passed an ironsmith who was demonstrating his craft in the yard. After just a few hundred meters, I came to one of the highlights of the Camino. The local winery has a wine fountain for pilgrims and as it says in a poem on the sign: "Pilgrim, if you want to arrive in Santiago with strength and vitality, take a sip of this magnificent wine and make a toast to happiness." No sooner said than done. After a sip of wine, I move on. I have a long conversation with Adva from
Israel about all sorts of things. After she has finished the Way of St. James, she will fly to
Peru and go hiking there again. After working briefly after school and completing her military service in the army for the last three years, she will only start her studies in Israel in October. In Israel, everyone, whether man or woman, has to do 3 years of military service. There are only a few exceptions or exemptions upon request. Today, it is a long walk along the edge of fields, vineyards and forests. My foot is hurting pretty badly today, so I'm going slower than usual. There's a fountain in the middle of nowhere. The last water point for the next 12km was signposted. So I filled up my hydration bladder. I had to take the lock off my backpack and I must have left it there. It's definitely gone. 🤷🏽♂️I have a quick chat with Roger from Switzerland. I've seen him every day so far, but haven't spoken to him. He drinks one, two or thirteen beers at every opportunity. I ask him now if he wants to refill his water, but he still has 2 beers in his backpack. It's the first time that I've found it uncomfortable to talk to someone. So I pick up the pace and get a little bit away from him. In the blazing sun, we walk endlessly across fields without the slightest shade. Luckily, a food truck had parked along the route and I was able to eat a little something there. Strengthened, we set off on the last 7km of the day. On through the burning sun. As Tristan had asked, I continued to push for a one-sided tan. Despite the sunscreen, I was sure that I would continue to burn. An hour before we arrived, we came across a stream with some flowering trees. I cooled off briefly in the shade, but only for a few hundred metres. Then we continued in the sun, up one last hill, and the town of Los Arcos appeared behind it. Another long depression, with burning legs and aching feet, I was greeted by goats and chickens at the entrance to the town. I went to the local hostel and got one of the last beds in the dormitory. This time without any separation, 70 people were sleeping in one room. The shower was also the worst to date. You have to direct the water all over your body to even get properly wet.
Today we want to eat with a group of other pilgrims in the square next to the church and go to the church at 7:30 p.m. for the pilgrim blessing. This blessing is offered in almost every place and every day, but I haven't been to one yet, so I'll check it out today.
Tomorrow, in bright sunshine, a very long stage to Logroño is scheduled.