Erste Schritte
Erste Schritte
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Happy New Year 2562

Udgivet: 24.04.2019

Buddhism is omnipresent in Luang Prabang, the spiritual center of Laos.
Buddhism is omnipresent in Luang Prabang, the spiritual center of Laos.


The Buddhist calendar is 543 years ahead of our Gregorian calendar. In April, the Laotians celebrate their New Year's festival - and we are in the midst of it. Not only Buddha statues are watered, but the Laotians also wash away the past year to start the coming one cleansed - with a huge three-day water battle. There are many religious and traditional customs surrounding the festival, such as parades or dance performances. We don't want to miss out on that and spend the entire celebrations in Luang Prabang, the former royal capital and spiritual center of the country.

Big cleaning is on the agenda before the festival.
Big cleaning is on the agenda before the festival.


Everyone in Luang Prabang gets drenched with water - there is no escape.
Everyone in Luang Prabang gets drenched with water - there is no escape.


At around 40 °C, we enjoy the cooling down and gladly join the water battle.
At around 40 °C, we enjoy the cooling down and gladly join the water battle.


There are over 30 monasteries with around 1,500 monks and novices. Many of the novices are very open and interested in finding out who we are and want to practice their English with us. However, some are disappointed that Antonia is a girl because they are not allowed to touch her. Touching women is forbidden for exclusively male novices and monks. They live without possessions, eat food donations, and spend their days studying and meditating. The New Year's festival is also a special time for the novices: they receive visits from their home villages, there are unusually many sweets among the food donations, and some of them take photos of the celebrations with their mobile phones just as enthusiastically as we do - so it seems they are not all without possessions.

5:30 am: Morning alms walk of the monks and novices. On the New Year
5:30 am: Morning alms walk of the monks and novices. On the New Year's festival, money is also gladly given in addition to the customary food donations.


Even during the celebrations for the New Year
Even during the celebrations for the New Year's festival, quiet spots can often be found within the monasteries.

The Kuang Si Waterfall in the vicinity of Luang Prabang...
The Kuang Si Waterfall in the vicinity of Luang Prabang...


... is also a popular destination for Laotians during the New Year
... is also a popular destination for Laotians during the New Year's festival.


The magnificent monasteries, along with the French colonial buildings and the traditional Laotian-style houses, shape the old town. We are impressed by the old town because, during the off-season, there are still many quiet corners despite the festive atmosphere. The slow-flowing Mekong River contributes to this relaxed atmosphere. Unless a wedding is being celebrated on one of the small Mekong islands. In that case, jet ski races take place and the loud music echoes throughout the entire city. However, the inhabitants of Luang Prabang and other larger settlements are accustomed to this. Every morning and evening, rattling primitive loudspeakers spread the latest news, communist slogans, and folk music throughout the city center. It seems quite bizarre, but it also creates an atmosphere.


A break at the Mekong River.
A break at the Mekong River.

Mekong in the haze.
Mekong in the haze.


After the New Year's festival, our travel route takes us north to the Nam Ou River. We travel up the river in several stages by boat. In addition to traditional villages, we also encounter some oversized dams here. Built by Chinese companies with Chinese workers, mainly to export the resulting electricity to China. There is discontent among the population about the impending sell-out of the country to China and Vietnam. However, criticism is not accepted in a one-party communist system, and some dissenters have disappeared overnight.

Important arable land on the fertile riverbanks is threatened by dam projects, and the residents are being relocated to higher areas. There, they put additional pressure on the few arable land and are often forced to deforestation. Ironically, many of these villages were resettled to the riverbanks in the past 20 years in order to better control them and the forest.


Traveling on the Nam Ou River through the steep karst landscape.
Traveling on the Nam Ou River through the steep karst landscape.

Boat travel is a welcome change for all of us.
Boat travel is a welcome change for all of us.


After a walk into the hinterland of Nam Ou, we gladly take the ride back on a tractor, as well as homemade rice schnapps for the New Year
After a walk into the hinterland of Nam Ou, we gladly take the ride back on a tractor, as well as homemade rice schnapps for the New Year's festival.


Now is corn harvest time. Antonia keeps receiving corn cobs as gifts.
Now is corn harvest time. Antonia keeps receiving corn cobs as gifts.

Upstream: We are dropped off at the beach of Sapjam.
Upstream: We are dropped off at the beach of Sapjam.


First, we jump into the water with the playing children here.
First, we jump into the water with the playing children here.

During the school holidays for the New YearWe are impressed by the openness of the children towards us strangers.


During the school holidays for the New Year's festival, the children spend the whole day by the water.

From the small village of Sapjam, our host Nyng goes hunting in the surrounding forests. He promises us a bird or a squirrel for tomorrow's lunch if he is successful. As soon as he sets off, a column of workers from the nearby dam construction site joins the peaceful restaurant. They have their day off tomorrow and start getting drunk with an announcement and without wasting any time. At some point, Nyng's wife Ka Mi finds it too chaotic and calls her husband to come back. At least we and some squirrels think that the Chinese laborers also have something good this evening.

Now, in the dry and hot season, the north is enveloped in a permanent haze. Dust and the smoke from slash-and-burn agriculture hang in the air. You can't smell it, but the visibility is limited to the next mountain range and the daylight is diffuse. Already at noon, the sun takes on a reddish hue, as if at sunset. We feel like we are under a bell jar. Far away from civilization, in the Nam Ou River valley, carved between high limestone mountains.


From our terrace, we can observe the bustle on the river.
From our terrace, we can observe the bustle on the river.

Communication also works without a common language.
Communication also works without a common language.


The people of Sapjam are particularly friendly and enjoy being photographed.
The people of Sapjam are particularly friendly and enjoy being photographed.


Sapjam is known for the weaving work of its women. Here, the silk thread is being spun.
Sapjam is known for the weaving work of its women. Here, the silk thread is being spun.


There is a loom in front of every house.
There is a loom in front of every house.


Laos is home to almost 50 different ethnic groups and up to 120 subgroups, making it the country with the most ethnicities in Southeast Asia. Each ethnicity has its own traditional colors and patterns.
Laos is home to almost 50 different ethnic groups and up to 120 subgroups, making it the country with the most ethnicities in Southeast Asia. Each ethnicity has its own traditional colors and patterns.


Because we don't want to subject Antonia to a six-hour boat trip, we split the journey into as many stages as possible. This also turns out to be fortunate for us: the further up the river we travel, the smaller the villages become, the friendlier the people, the prices fall, and menus are no longer needed. We stay longer than planned!


There
There's no stopping Antonia now that she can walk.


Nyng is repairing his fishing net.
Nyng is repairing his fishing net.


The weighted net is thrown into the water from the boat using a special casting technique.
The weighted net is thrown into the water from the boat using a special casting technique.

Our travel route in two unexpectedly different countries.
Our travel route leads us to Northern Vietnam from Laos.

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