On the road

The real adventure started yesterday! After translating and notarizing our driver's license, and finally being able to make a payment with the card terminal, Juri picked us up with the car that will accompany us for the next 11 days.

Once the suitcases and our camping equipment were loaded with the help of Sascha, the hotel owner, we set off. We had to be alert for potholes, speeding cars, and ignored traffic lights.

Within just 30 minutes on the highway, we fell into the first speed trap - the police officer waved us off the road and explained that we would have to surrender our driver's license for 3 days for exceeding the speed limit. We doubted if that was true, but after a bit of begging, we ended up paying a hefty sum of 1000 Som! After that, we drove more cautiously, perhaps too slowly - better safe than sorry!

Our first stop was about 40 km away in Iwanovka, a small village near Issyk-Kul. This is where my father grew up.

Now we only encountered Kyrgyz people on the roads, it seems that the locals solely rely on agriculture. We quickly took a photo of my father’s childhood home and then went to the village cemetery. My grandfather is buried here - somewhere! I have a map and a photo of the grave, but the cemetery is huge and completely overgrown. After a storm, fallen trees and bushes were scattered around - we embarked on a family treasure hunt, each searching a corner, scratching our legs on the undergrowth, and moving branches aside for 2 hours - unfortunately, without success - we couldn't find the grave and continued on our way.

Our next stop is Burana, where there is an 11th-century tower. Remains of a city were found here. Very fascinating! After a major earthquake, the previously 40m high minaret tower now stands at 25m. It has been extensively restored and stands impressively tall amidst the mountains. You can climb the tower through a very narrow staircase, but the view is worth it!

Besides the tower, there are excavation pieces to observe. And also rock paintings that are over 3000 years old.

We got back in the car - heading towards Issyk-Kul. We drove through a mountain range and couldn't stop marveling at the scenery. The roads are relatively good as well!

In a small village, we stopped for dinner - and paid just under 500 Som for 4 people, and it was delicious!

Now it's getting dark, the owner of the next hotel has already contacted us a second time - probably concerned that the German tourists might get lost.

Shortly before nightfall, we reach Issyk-Kul, the enormous salt lake at an altitude of 1500m! The view is breathtaking, with snow-covered mountains on the right and left, and the gigantic lake in between!

Then the sun sets and the drive becomes challenging: there are no street lights, no guardrails, no road markings, no reflectors on the roadside - instead, there are occasional potholes and people strolling or jogging along the edge of the highway - my husband is visibly stressed as we still have about half an hour of driving ahead of us. But he gets us safely to Bosteri, a peaceful resort behind Cholpon Ata.

The parking lot is guarded by about 15 teenagers - initially a bit intimidating at a late hour. But seems to be the norm here. The hotel owner greets us in the parking lot and leads us to the room. The locals are shocked by our casual outfits - it's quite cold here. Everyone is bundled up in jackets! However, we still hope for good weather for our planned day at the beach tomorrow!

After the kids have gone to bed, we treat ourselves to a glass of wine to relax - first milestone reached!