Publicatu: 05.05.2019
The day started with the knowledge that we have to leave our room at 12 o'clock and cannot enter it until 9 o'clock (at this time it is 24:00 o'clock and we still cannot go up). The reason for this is a parade of the newly crowned king, which passes directly along the road that our hotel is adjacent to. Since it is now possible to spit on the monarch's head from our window, the authorities felt compelled to accommodate us in the lobby for a day. As an alternative, one could leave the completely closed downtown area (very large) and search for tourist luck outside. Unfortunately, it is then very difficult to return to the restricted district (You can only enter with a stickered number, for that you have to go through personal checks and wait in line for a good hour - all very strict). We opted for the 'excursion' route, but (spoiler alert!) then underestimated 10 hours of Thai sun. Today it was declared an enemy.
Directly on the way to the bridge, we see people being transported to the event in trucks and I cannot help but find that very strange.
So we crossed the bridge to the other side of the river and promptly ended up in a supply camp for the many loyal supporters of the king (by the way, all dressed in yellow - about 95% of the population). There were refreshments and local food for free, which they immediately and energetically offered us - very hospitable. We declined the generosity because we found it somehow strange to grab two potatoes for free that are actually intended for the loyal locals.
After a short confusion in a park, we headed south, always along the river.
We crossed through a poor residential area, built over the small canals with improvised huts. Very charming, very impressive.
We visited the alley where we had already drunk the delicious iced tea (Day 3) and we cannot go any further without grabbing some more. We ate fried noodles with chicken and vegetables at a shady spot (9/10 - 1.30€) and then enjoyed the authentic Thai market atmosphere for the first time.
Then we left the market and ventured back into more open and hotter areas. We stop at a stand that sells colorful balls. There are no external clues as to what they could taste like, let alone what they contain. So we are allowed to try them and we are convinced. They are sweet dough balls fried in fat with food coloring - basically colorful disguised Mutzen (7/10 - 0.60€). We sit in front of a garage door with our little friends and ignore the numerous offers from taxi drivers - 'Where you go?' - 'Does it look like I'm going somewhere?'
We go back to the east side ('ours') of the river and try to maneuver as close as possible to the restricted area - 'Then we just wait until 9 o'clock and then it's only a 15-minute walk home.'
Regularly, when trying to sneak past roadblocks, we are pointed out by stewards to our missing number and asked with insistence to turn around.
We pass a square where a public viewing of the event takes place. Here too, there is free ice-cold water. This time we accept the offer, fill our bottles and stay a little while to follow the events on the screen - because why not?
By now, it is a beautiful evening atmosphere and the streets are relatively empty because it feels like all of Bangkok and half of Thailand are gathered along the parade route.
At a roadblock, we see an interesting snack and eat something again. This time it's rice with fried pork and soup with too much in it to list here. Both delicious and cheap (8/10 - 1.50€ each).
Now we go to reduce the distance to the restricted area, along a small side street next to a temple and find ourselves in a place that is conspicuously filled with people dressed in yellow. 'Strange', I think and we continue towards the hostel with the firm expectation of being blocked at any moment by a roadblock. 'Very strange' I think, when we stand directly on the parade route and in the midst of thousands of people dressed in yellow - we are inside! Somehow, by accident, we managed to find the one street out of 1000 (at EVERY 1 meter wide alley, there was an officer) that represents the security gap of the event.
My paranoia kicks in and I expect to be knocked over and taken away by a policeman, soldier (both kinds are in ABUNDANCE) or steward at any moment.
Nothing happens. We continue towards the hostel, but we cannot cross the street. I cross my arms and carry my camera bag in front of my chest to cover up my non-existent sticker number.
We decide to sit down and just participate in the biggest event in Thailand in the last 70 years (that's how long the last king was in office).
After an hour and some back pain (I sit on the sidewalk and we somehow forgot to pack pillows.) the opulent parade passes by and we can catch a glimpse of the freshly crowned king carried on a litter. Surreal!
- Alex