On to Moldova

On Thursday morning (July 12, 2018), I start with a dip in my swimming pond. Then, breakfast for me and Rango. After packing our things, we set off along the Prut River around noon. Shortly after one-thirty, we can replenish our drinking water reserves with the help of friendly residents in a suburb of Lunka. I decide to walk into the town for a coffee and a longer break, even though it's not directly on our way. On the main road in Lunka, we are stopped by two elderly residents who don't quite believe my search for a magazine for a coffee break. They call the police. It takes a while for the police to arrive. Checking my identification and finding out the reason for my presence on this exact road also takes some time. To pass the time and out of curiosity, my luggage is inspected, and once it becomes clear that I am a tourist and not a terrorist, one of the residents serves me coffee and cake. After that, the two border guards drive us a bit further towards Moldova, to Tarassiwzi. Very nice of the guys. We continue along the main road, but I'm not supposed to get too close to the Prut, which forms the border with Romania here. Along the way, I replenish our food reserves, and by six o'clock, it's time to look for a place to spend the night, just before Vanchykivtsi. In my search, I come across a family celebration in a garden plot. Before I can even explain my situation, I am invited to join the meal. There is plenty of grilled meat, vegetables, bread, and cheese. Rango also gets his share until our hosts retire around nine o'clock. I enjoy the idyllic garden for a while longer before going to bed at around ten-thirty.

On Friday morning, we are awakened by the first rays of sun tickling the tent. I have a hearty breakfast and am treated to a coffee and something sweet around nine o'clock. By ten-thirty, we are ready to go, say goodbye to Nina, our host, and head to the nearby town. At the first newsstand, I inquire about a train to Moldova, but it only leaves late in the evening. In the center, I decide to try my luck with the bus. Kolja, whom I meet there, helps me. No luck with Rango though. I take advantage of the good network and upload some pictures before we continue on foot to the east. It is very hot again, and the road offers little shade - a challenge for the big guy. So, I hitchhike and hope for some helpful people. The first ones to give us a ride are two men on their motorbike block (a simple trailer with a motor attached to two wheels instead of a horse - cool thing). After about 2 km, our paths diverge, but I don't have to wait long before we are offered a ride in a car. The craftsmen drive us to the Ukrainian-Moldovan border. There we take a coffee break before entering Moldova without any problems shortly before three o'clock. There is neither bus nor train here, so we walk to Lipcani, the nearest larger town. I need new money and a new SIM card. We reach the town at around five-thirty and are invited by a man to his place. He's a bit tipsy but insists on providing me with a place to sleep and dinner. After a while, I agree, mainly because I'm pretty exhausted. In his apartment, he introduces me to his wife and takes care of Rango and me with food. However, over the next hour, it becomes clear that his wife is not thrilled about our presence. It's time to thank them and move on. Shortly before seven, we are in the center of Lipcani, where I can buy Moldovan Lei and some food. It's too late for a new SIM card by now. We make our way to a water body marked on my map. There is plenty of reed here, but there hasn't been any water for a while. When setting up the tent, my pole breaks again. For now, a tent peg has to serve as a makeshift replacement. Then I retreat to the sleeping area with Rango.

On Saturday morning (July 14, 2018), after breakfast, I once again rebuild my tent pole. The remaining sheet metal and a water bottle serve as material for the new pole, resulting in a composite material. By half-past eleven, we set off to the nearby town center of Lipcani. In addition to the SIM card and meat for Rango, I try to organize a bicycle with a trailer. They seem to be impossible to find in the area, and I am advised to take the bus... Well, hope dies last. It takes a while, but with the help of a few older women, we finally manage to persuade a driver to take us to Bălţi. We arrive at the bus station there shortly before half past four. A chat with a local doesn't yield any tips for a good camping spot, but my map shows Lacul Orăşenesc not too far away. This body of water has a name and even a beach - hopefully, there is water this time. On the way there, I pass a place to stock up on drinking water, which I naturally use. There, I am approached by Dima and Daria, who offer to accompany me to the lake and help me find a camping spot. By six o'clock, the tent is set up, and I was able to convince the two to have dinner with me. Before they return to their place, they invite me to watch football and have dinner together the following evening. I take a bath in the lake, enjoy the evening view of Bălţi, and retire to the tent, quite content.