27.12.2017: Picturesque Banks Peninsula

In the morning, we follow the recommendation of our host Cornelius and drive to the charming Pigeon Bay. Here starts a 14 km long hiking trail, which we walk for a few minutes; when the wet grass is waist-high and the path underneath is hardly visible anymore, we turn back. Anyway, we have a lot planned for today and limited time.

We continue on the narrow winding road to Little Akaloa. We park at the beach under a tree overlooking the sea and wait out the rain in the car. Two minutes later, someone knocks on our window. A nice person from the Red Cross invites us to a sausage from the grill. Two ladies and a gentleman have set up a stand here; the proceeds go to the Red Cross. Unfortunately, nobody has passed by so far, and before they end up with lots of toast, sausages, and pie, they would like to give away the food for free. Initially, we thought it was only one sausage for each of us and donated a small amount for it; with the quantity they eventually hand us, we wish we had donated more, but of course, we politely decline. After a very nice chat, we set off again and take to heart the tip from the 'Red Crossers' to visit St. Luke's Church, built in 1906 on the mountain, with its Maori carvings. We also sign the guestbook and mention the advice of the three friendly Kiwis.

We continue on a road labeled 'Scenic Drive' (although they are all like that here with countless panoramic views) to the small coastal town of Akaroa. 630 people live here, in the summer it's 7,000. However, we have chosen a bad day for our visit, because the coastal town is (more than usual) hopelessly overcrowded. Today, of all days, two cruise ships with over 4,000 passengers have docked in the harbor, exploring the French and British settlement, which is located in the heart of a former volcano.

You can escape a large part of them on the water - Yesterday evening we booked a harbor cruise for 3:40 p.m., which promises a 97% dolphin sighting rate. When we want to pick up the tickets, however, we are informed that the tour is 'on hold'; they have to see how the weather develops first. So now it's a matter of crossing our fingers. As we sit together in a café eating crêpes, my phone rings - not a good sign, and indeed: the tour is canceled. The sea is too rough today, so the comfort for the passengers is not guaranteed. Slightly disappointed, we make our way back to the car. It doesn't actually look that bad. It's lightly cloudy and the wind on the promenade isn't that strong either. Oh man..

Feeling down, we decide to at least drive to the historic lighthouse, which we would have seen as part of the cruise. The narrow road winds steeply upwards and demands everything from our old Toyota. Suddenly, it stops. A sign warns that the dirt road from here onwards should only be driven on by all-wheel-drive vehicles. But today, nothing seems to work. At least we enjoy the view, but the strong wind up here on the hill shortens our stay to a minimum. On the way back, we briefly stop at the new lighthouse, fail in our attempt to refuel cheaply at the gas station with the tank filled with gas, so the pump signals 'full' every second, and park at the hostel again after a few minutes. Here, there is a big reunion with the couple we met in Te Anau. Not only did they check into the same hostel as us at the same time, but their New Year's Eve plans also match ours - they also want to celebrate the new year in Hagley Park in Christchurch. What a coincidence...

After a short chat, we put on our shoes again and walk to Onawe Peninsula, which is only accessible at low tide/mid-tide and is sacred to the Maori. It takes an hour to reach the tip and return, with great views of the harbor accompanying the walkers. Definitely 60 well-invested minutes during a stay on the Banks Peninsula!