Close to Heaven

Dear Travel Diary

Monday, May 17, 2021

Rise and Shine at 5:15 am in the shared apartment. Tired but full of anticipation, finally being able to do the Stairway to Heaven hike, we had breakfast together. At 6:00 am, two Ubers were supposed to pick us up. This was due to the coronavirus, as we are not allowed to have all four people in one car. Sonia's and Chantal's Uber arrived on time and they got in. However, ours, Jasmin's and mine, took a bit more time and even got lost. But we were eventually picked up a little later.

Shortly after starting the journey, I made sure that the driver was heading to the right place, as when we ordered the car, we only typed in Stairway to Heaven as the destination, which would have led us to the start of the illegal path (the stairs). The start of the longer and more difficult, but legal ascent, was in Moanalua Valley.

Arriving there, Chantal and Sonia were nowhere to be seen. Shortly after, I received a message from Chantal saying: 'I think we went the wrong way.' Hmm great... Even though they had given the driver the correct address and even wanted to guide him, he drove to the given address. New arrival time: shortly before 7:00 am, which was the time we were supposed to start walking half an hour ago.

Finally, the four of us marched forward with a half-hour delay. Slightly annoying but not a big deal. After all, we have the whole day ahead of us.

At the beginning, it was a leisurely walk on a field road through a beautiful plant kingdom. Occasionally, we had to cross large muddy fields or look for a better way in the forest next to it in order to avoid getting stuck in the swamp.

The path then became denser and denser, with ferns around us, branches above us, and mud beneath us. Perfect conditions for such a hike. After a while, we could see the group further up who had started the trail while Jasmin and I were waiting. I waved to them and they waved back, and then they asked: 'Do you know if this is the right way?' 'Actually, we don't, but it has to be...', was our answer. So, let's continue. What we initially considered a challenge was already peanuts after a while, because the path became more and more difficult, unclear, and therefore dangerous.

With the help of roots and each other's hands, we climbed up the mountain. With each step, we thought again, how can such a path be legal when the stairs are not? It doesn't make sense once again! America, that's the answer, and onwards we went. But wait, how will we ever come down from here if we already have such difficulties on the ascent? The descent is always more difficult than the ascent.

Now I was also convinced that this couldn't be the right way, and I tried to call Dominik from my class who had done the trail a few days before. Unfortunately, without success, as there was hardly any reception in the thicket we were in. Of course! We had no choice but to keep climbing, sliding, and hoping that we wouldn't take a wrong step.

So far, we had been lucky with the weather, as it was pleasantly cloudy and the sun wasn't really shining. But black clouds were slowly appearing.

But how the hell did so many people manage this hike when we were already struggling? And I claim right now, we are not in bad shape when it comes to sports, etc. After what felt like hours (I had lost track of time), I tried to call Luca to ask him if we were on the right track. After a short conversation and his check questions like 'Did you cross the river?' and 'Did you turn right at the sign?' and my questions which included whether he also had to pull himself up with roots and whether it was muddy, etc., he said yes, he had said it was not an easy hike. I can't let that sit with me, I can do it and I will not give up!

With a feeling of relief, knowing that we had taken the right path, we continued step by step and marveled more and more at the sheer determination of those who do this trail (apologies for the wording). One must be fearless to choose such a path. So, we now belong to this species of humans...

And finally, the clouds were favorable to us and let a few drops of rain fall, or should I rather call it tears? I don't know, but at that time, I had to swallow several times. It was already incredibly slippery now and almost impossible, and the thought of doing it all in the rain almost washed away my courage. But luckily, it was only a few small drops, and it stopped immediately.

We heard the voices of the other three again, and I asked loudly if it would get better further up. They replied yes, and finally, the view would come. Until then, we hadn't been able to enjoy a real view since we were surrounded by greenery. At least it will get better, we thought.

Shortly after, however, we had a huge moment of shock when Jasmin suddenly fell to the right and was hanging on to a tree trunk only with her kneecaps. Being the last one in the group, I tried to pull her back on the trail - unfortunately without success. As if she weren't already far enough down, she slid a bit further, and I didn't know how else I could help her. Chantal and Sonia were already further up and were also perplexed at the moment it happened. For inexplicable reasons, Jasmin managed to pull herself up again and return to the trail. My goodness, it could have ended badly.

After a short rest, we continued to climb up and focused more and more on the path, as it was really only a foot wide now. On the right and left were the treacherous ferns, which looked solid and safe, but probably meant the abyss at the same time. So now, just don't make a wrong step.

Angry, exhausted, and incredulous, Chantal shouted: 'Guys, we took the wrong way! I can see some people over there.' I could hardly believe my ears and also didn't see any people. Once again, I was annoyed with my poor eyesight, because I had to ask at least three times where these people were. Finally, I saw them too, and I was just angry at ourselves that we had actually chosen the wrong path again, and at the same time, proud that we had almost completed such a challenging climb.

It wasn't long until we finally reached the right path. Now, let's not rush and make a mistake. However, we were just relieved that we didn't have to go back the same way. Everyone except me had already considered taking the illegal path as the way back. I was of the opinion that we could also make it back down from here, even if it meant sliding down on our butts, doing three somersaults, and having a rough landing. I absolutely cannot and do not want to take the illegal path, as I am too much of a scaredy-cat for something like that. This would have meant having to run away from the residents and the police at the bottom. I have already heard enough of such robber stories and do not want to experience them first-hand.

Now we have finally taken the last step, and we were safe. At least it felt that way for us. Looking back at the passage we had just come from, it was almost impossible to believe what we had accomplished. You can't even see a path from above. No wonder, because there wasn't one. And yet, I am convinced that we were far from being the only ones who made this fatal mistake.

The usual path was then a piece of cake compared to before. Although it was also slippery in some parts and there was a ravine on both sides. But less than before, which was pleasant.

Finally, we reached the section with the rope that everyone had talked about. On a steep slope with mud, we had to pull ourselves up with a rope. Once again, I was grateful for my flexibility and the many hours I spent at Milandia, where I repeatedly climbed up and down the Eiger North Face climbing route. Now I understand why gloves, as mentioned in several places, would be a good idea. The rope poked into your palms, and yet it was impossible without it. My calluses from pole dancing are probably no longer there to provide protection. So I just hoped not to get blisters or even burns from the rope.

Once we reached the top, the path was similar to before the rope. At times, the path was like hip-high canyons, where you could barely put one foot in front of the other. At least now we finally saw our destination, and it was within reach. So, let's squeeze in the last few hundred meters and there it was. The large satellite dishes on a concrete house, the famous stairs that lead up from the opposite side, and a fantastic view. A view of Highway 3, where Chantal and I had already driven, the green Koolau Mountains, the ocean, and the houses in front of it, and everything else below us. Even the clouds seemed within reach.

After climbing the 780 meters in elevation, it didn't take long to enjoy it, because the wind almost blew us away. So we ate something, took our photos, and turned back.

The return journey was as expected, not without its challenges, but manageable. Even the part with the ropes was doable with some concentration and a certain level of skill. Arriving at this point again, where we joined the trail earlier, we took one last look back and shook our heads in disbelief. A little further down, we looked back once again and saw the lateral moraine on which we had hiked.

After more sliding, gusts of wind, and climbing maneuvers, we finally reached the correct river that Luca was talking about. However, we also crossed a small river, just the wrong one. Now we also realized where we had made the mistake. But now back on the comfortable field road, it seemed endless.

We were already quite relieved when we reached it. Now we just had to leave all these muddy fields behind us and then we would be back at the starting point. In theory, faster than in practice. The mud holes that we struggled to avoid at the beginning were now slowly becoming irrelevant. The main thing was to get home!

Eight hours later, we found ourselves back at the park in Moanalua Valley, relieved to be able to leave the hike behind us. Only my ankles and knees were incredibly sore, but no wonder, we had put them under considerable strain, and it probably wasn't the best for my shaky joints. However, they will eventually recover.

After a short break for the restroom, drinks, and food, our Uber arrived and picked us all up. Back in Waikiki, Chantal and I retrieved our belongings from the shared apartment and waited for our bus. As luck would have it, we made it onto our favorite bus, or rather our favorite bus driver. However, when we boarded, he wasn't the one behind the wheel, but someone else. He was sitting in the back as an 'instructor' and watching over the driver's shoulder. I politely greeted him, but unfortunately, he didn't recognize me in my sports outfit. Normally, I wear my beach outfit when we board his bus. Surprisingly, the apprentice driver did a good job and would be a good replacement for our driver if he stops driving.

When we arrived home, Tony asked us how our 'school' was. We said it was wonderful because we went on an excursion ;). But now, it's time for a shower and to put the clothes in the washing machine.