A bɔra kɛnɛ kan: 02.03.2020
After the included breakfast, I go to explore Valdivia. It seems quite lively, colorful, and young - actually quite pleasant and funny. But since I would like to have some company, I will continue to Puerto Montt today, to the next couchsurfing host. Before that, I briefly succumb to consumerism and buy a ukulele in the music store. I believe it is a good investment for my trip because I really feel like playing some music. I also buy some vegetables, fruits, and nuts. I much prefer spending my money on delicious, healthy food than on accommodation in a hostel. Then I gladly cook for my hosts in regular kitchens.
When I arrive in Puerto Montt in the evening, Carlos is already there to pick me up. What a service! He is a journalist and electrician and lived in Santiago until the day before yesterday. Only yesterday he moved into his apartment in Puerto Montt and immediately invites couchsurfers to stay with him. Que bacán! However, you can also tell that he has just moved in. Upstairs are two tiny rooms, each with a mattress on the floor, downstairs a table, two chairs, a stove and a sink. He just bought a pot, a pan, and some dishes. There is no refrigerator, no sponge or dish soap, no lamp in the bathroom... it's a bit like camping. But we manage, cook something delicious and then he plays the ukulele for the first time in his life. However, it sounds like he has always been playing because he is a natural talent on the guitar. We have a glass of wine from a Tetrapak and try to light the stove as it is quite cold here. Unfortunately, it only works moderately - the wood refuses to burn. So the only solution is to cuddle up on the mattress under the thick blanket.
Conveniently, Carlos is off today, so we drive to the nearby Alerce Andino National Park. The weather is cool and cloudy, and in the forests of the national park, it is a bit more humid and colder. But the air smells fantastic and everything is very green - typical forest. Occasionally, it drizzles a bit, but luckily we are not made of sugar. At the destination, a small lake, we take beautiful moody photos with a great misty atmosphere, and on the way back, we see a huge, old Patagonian cypress tree (which gives the national park its name) and hitchhike our way back to Puerto Montt bit by bit. There we have a siesta first. Not much happens in the evening either, we cook, eat, have a glass of wine, and play the ukulele. He spoke a lot of Spanish with me today, and sometimes I did as well. However, my perfectionism is getting in the way quite a bit.
Today I am embarking on the longest bus ride of my life so far. Over 2,000km from Puerto Montt to the south, to Punta Arenas. It's supposed to take almost 30 hours. The bus is relatively comfortable, and we set off in the morning. Not much happens, I listen to music, look out the window, or read a bit. We stop twice for immigration to Argentina, and then unfortunately my internet is gone. In the evening, there is a stop at a restaurant, and of course, there are fries again.
I can actually sleep quite well, the seats can recline almost 45°, it's dark and quiet on the bus. And I can sleep practically anywhere and anytime.
In the morning, we are crossing back into Chile. Unfortunately, I am not allowed to keep my Chilean lemon and zucchini at customs, but at least there is no fine for false information. Yes, I lied on the customs form because I found it to be nonsense. For breakfast and lunch, I bought a pack of 6 croissants and other pastries at the gas station. Super healthy.
The journey naturally takes longer than expected, and so after 31.5 hours of bus travel, I finally arrive in Punta Arenas in the evening. The hostel is within walking distance, about a 20 minute walk, and it feels good to use my legs again. It's really cozy and has only two dorm rooms, so it's very small and quiet. In the living room, there is a gas stove that provides warmth and a great atmosphere. I drop off a huge pile of laundry and hardly have anything left to wear.
Actually, I didn't plan to do anything today and tomorrow, but I can't say no to pizza, so I meet up with couchsurfer Andrés for dinner and a glass of red wine in the evening. After that, I go to bed nice and tired.
After breakfast, I sit down for a whole hour to study Spanish because I am very frustrated with my progress so far. Then I do a round of yoga and practice my headstand. At noon, I go out for lunch with a few people from the hostel, then we fold the laundry together. I have washed almost all of my clothes here again before going camping for a month. In the afternoon, I go shopping in town and get all the essentials for the first few days in the campervan - and a welcome beer for Ben, of course. And since the day is going so well, I also go for a longer jog and exceed my self-set goal. I wouldn't mind if this happens more often.
Since the gas in the hostel has been empty since this morning, no one can cook in the evening. I make hummus and a bell pepper-avocado salad and share it with an older Chinese woman who neither speaks English nor Spanish. We communicate for a while using translation apps before I cuddle up on the couch with a book on my Tolino e-reader. It's nice to have a day without plans and just live the day as I please, for myself only, according to my mood.
Today, the solo journey ends again because Ben arrives in Punta Arenas by plane in the evening. But there are still a few things to take care of. After breakfast, I go to the campervan rental on the outskirts of town. All the other customers there are Germans as well. The rental process is relatively quick and professional, and then I get behind the wheel for the first time in over three months. The first few meters feel completely unfamiliar, and I feel like a beginner driver, but you quickly get back into it. The traffic rules are American, lots of stop signs and no right of way for vehicles coming from the right (as far as I can judge). The other hostel residents admire our new home extensively and are all quite jealous. So far, I am quite happy with the very small house on wheels, but its suitability still has to be proven in practice.
Back at the hostel, there is the long-awaited hot shower, as the gas has finally been refilled. And afterwards, my hostel friends hop onto the wooden platform on the back of the campervan, which can be used as a bed and seating area but has no seat belts. We drive to the huge industrial park and do some shopping. I get a thermos and a few Tupperware containers for the car, which never hurts when living outdoors.
With a bit of delay, I then drive to the airport and finally pick up Ben. He is a bit exhausted from the long flight. We search on Google first, then on the iOverlander app for a place to park or camp, which turns out to be not so easy. We could stay for free at a minimart with a parking lot, and Ben can get a hot shower here for a small fee, but we don't feel comfortable between the trucks. So we keep driving, quite a bit on a gravel road, but the advertised camping spot turns out to be not a camping spot. In the end, we find a nice little spot in a small park between the road and the sea, where we park under the shelter of a few trees. It's raining lightly and the wind is whipping us quite aggressively, plus we are both quite tired. After a quick noodle soup, we finally get into bed all wrapped up - it's cold.