Always a dream: Three Peaks!

After a short stop in beautiful Allgäu, we cross the border into Austria and right there is the traffic. Everyone with free time is looking for one of the few ways south and waiting for it to continue. The cause of the traffic jam cannot be determined, it seems to simply be the popular increased traffic. We take the first exit to temporarily escape this and head to Lake Plansee. Like many others, as quickly becomes apparent.

A romantically located Alpine lake with crystal clear water and completely crowded. The shore is lined with a panoramic road, where motorhomes, van lifers, roof tent nomads, and mini campers park temporarily. Day trippers looking for a swim have found spaces between stand-up paddlers, surfers, sailors, and excursion boats or enjoy the idyll from the steamer. The rumble of motorcycles and sports cars completes the leisure fun, please do not overlook the road cyclists or e-bikers when crossing the road.

Wow! The ignorance mode doesn't last long and we don't want to get stuck on the northern edge of Austria. The road to the south is clear again and soon we arrive in the romantic Ötztal.

This is where DJ Ötzi comes from and there are also glaciers to admire. We don't want to miss that and Zappa drives up the road. About 10km before the natural spectacle, a barrier prevents us from continuing, a friendly lady looks out of a small window and would like 20€ for passage. Twenty euros! Well. We both are speechless, but the car behind us has left enough distance so that we can turn around. Twenty euros! Unbelievable!

Since we don't feel like buying a vignette for the Austrian motorway, we decide to take the serpentines over the Timmelsjoch Pass to Italy. Many curves, beautiful views, long hours of driving, and at the pass at an altitude of 2500m, a friendly Austrian official sits and collects the fee. The one-way trip costs a measly 17€, how did we ever get the idea that crossing the border could be free?

We share the road with a million motorcycle riders and half a million Porsches. Zappa thinks he can listen to alphorns here, but the constant drone in a wonderful environment is of another nature.

Almost at the bottom of the valley, he takes the next small road because he can't stand my exasperated glances anymore and we end up at a cold stream with a view of a quiet village and finally enjoy the clear Alpine air.

Water is not a problem here, streams and small rivers can be found everywhere, in which we can take our morning bath. These are often waters that have just sprung from a source or melted from the nearest glacier. Very clear water, really very clear. And really very cold. But it wakes you up. And cleans you.

What is not so easy in South Tyrol is wild camping or free standing, as it is called now. There are hardly any places or paths off the beaten track, everything is fully developed for tourism and individual tourists are supposed to stick to the hiking routes. And we are certainly not the only wild campers in this well-traveled region, but years of experience help us out of a jam and so we find our sleeping spots.

Finally arrived in the Dolomites, the way to the Three Peaks is easy to find. There are already countless cars parked on the road in the village at the foot of the famous peaks. This surprises me, after all, it is allowed to drive a few more kilometers with the motorhome to reach the attraction. We are very excited and a bit nervous, many beautiful pictures in books and on the internet have made these peaks a dream destination and now finally, soon, we are so close to this wonderful place!

There are still about seven kilometers when a small traffic jam surprises us. On closer inspection, it turns out to be a queue at a toll booth! For now, we turn around to find out about the circumstances and we are amazed. They charge a whopping 30€ here for a six-kilometer crossing to the natural spectacle. The tour in the shuttle bus is also 15€ per person. With all understanding for the care and maintenance of paths, etc., but that smells of rip-off. In the Spanish Ordesa National Park, we paid five euros for the round trip!

It's too late for a hike and so we let the dream remain a dream and turn our backs on the Three Peaks.

During the journey, we discover countless equally breathtaking, rugged rocks with indescribable formations, quickly overcoming the renunciation and marveling at the wonders of nature.

We continue south. The way there leads us to Passo di Giau. At an altitude of 2200m, a stunning panorama awaits us. We look back to the north and are ecstatic. Then we take the last hairpin turn and are speechless. In front of us are majestic peaks in the sunlight, making us feel the grandeur of this mountain range with incredible views. Distinctive cliffs and hills sharply reaching into the sky as far as the eye can see. The sight makes you feel small and insignificant, worries and troubles fade away for a moment in the beauty of the landscape.

Completely thrilled, we quickly decide to take a break here and wait for the sunset.

Many photography enthusiasts have the same idea. On the ridge around the pass, there are countless tripods lined up, all looking forward to the moment.

And the wait is worth it, the sun sinks towards the horizon with dramatic play of lights, leaving all of us shivering in an incomparable blue hour, after the peaks have shone in purple-red alpenglow.

In the last light, a shepherd climbs the summit with his flock, now we finally surrender to the mystical atmosphere.

We stay overnight, as do some other fearless people, because we all know that temperatures at this altitude can become uncomfortable at some point.

Oh well, we snuggle up in blankets and to each other, let our thoughts drift, and for today we are reconciled with the Dolomites.