Arequipa, the gateway to the Andes

Geography determined the means of transportation. A simple look at the map was not enough to accurately estimate distances, especially on coastal roads and mountain passes. I had to constantly remind myself of the sheer size of my host country. Peru's area was comparable to France plus Spain plus Portugal, not to mention the coast, desert, Amazon, and Andean peaks over 6,000 meters.

Arequipa, the country's second largest city, was located in the geographical center of the different regions of southern Peru. The roads between Lima (14 hours), the Inca city of Cusco (twelve hours), and the connecting road to La Paz in Bolivia crossed paths there. At the same time, Arequipa was a special showcase of colonial architecture. The nickname 'white city' referred either to the predominant building material, volcanic sillar stone, or to the colonial rulers' racist settlement policy.

In Arequipa, I spent three very peaceful days, strolling through the streets. The particularly popular excursion destination, the Colca Canyon, was inaccessible due to blocked access roads following an earthquake. I was relieved to be able to save the extra trip and costs for tourists.

During a very individual city tour with three participants, including Gabi and Max from Hamburg, I learned more about the Peruvian Nobel laureate Mario Vargas Llosa (interesting contrast to Garcia Marquez) and the so-called War of the Pacific.

In the late 19th century, Chile waged war against Peru and Bolivia. Bolivia lost its coast and Peru lost resource-rich areas in the Atacama Desert. Chile was significantly supported by the British Empire. Disputes over the exploitation of guano (bird droppings) were the reason for the armed conflict, which resulted in up to 30,000 deaths.

...

On Thursday, I met a roommate from South Carolina in the hostel, who enthusiastically talked about her travel plans with youthful enthusiasm. This finally motivated me to book flights and make travel plans for the coming weeks. Americans were able to inspire, and unlike Europeans, they showed a pragmatism that motivated me and pushed aside any concerns. A brief encounter, almost in passing, that gave me valuable impulses.

I had a second special encounter with Salvador. I shared about my world on an equal footing, and he told me about Peru and the joys and sorrows of its people. In addition, he took me to some local restaurants. There was ceviche, raw fish with corn and lemon, and anticuchos, beef heart, as well as pisco sour, brandy with lemon and egg white.

Recommended reading:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mario_Vargas_Llosa

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alberto_Fujimori

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/War_of_the_Pacific