Uñt’ayata: 24.06.2017
That traveling has some really insidious quirks, I can now sing a 10-stanza song about it. Besides the unpleasant side effect that 95% of backpackers come home 5 kg heavier (which saves the wallet, but definitely shows in other areas), there is also the fact that every day is like Friday, so to speak. And just like Friday nights, they usually end in a drunken state and a nice hangover the next morning. Luckily, alcohol is unaffordable and the days were often exhausting, so we often went to bed at 9 pm.
When we arrived in Exmouth, things were about to change when we left the bottleshop with 8 liters of wine (thanks to Goon) and a bottle of gin.
Sitting at the lighthouse at sunset, the four of us toasted and finished the first 2 liters. After a few drinking games, we marched to the beach with our newly made acquaintances, armed with the second box of wine and a Tupperware of pasta. Along with 16 other idiots, we played Flunky Ball and more drinking games on the beach. I don't remember who came up with this rule, but every time the flashlight gave up (and it was a very cheap flashlight), someone had to chug their drink or kiss someone (and no, you don't want that!). Alexa and I got the full load with the comment "Stop resisting!". Hello, sexual assault!
At 2 am, we had the brilliant idea to go swimming. The fact that we decided to go to the pool instead of the ocean with sharks in our drunken state once again shows our boundless common sense. Shortly after, accompanied by the "Stop resisting" person, we climbed over the fence and jumped into the pool.
It should be easy to believe that we had to cancel our plans to go snorkeling the next morning. Honestly, I had the hangover of my life and spent the whole day dying in the shade.
After more than 10 hours of sleep and days of anticipation, our great snorkeling day finally arrived, one day late. Equipped with wetsuits due to jellyfish season, we drove along the coast of the peninsula and visited a fraction of the many incredible beautiful bays. The Turquoise Bay was the starting point and unquestionable highlight, famous for "The Drift", a current that runs parallel to the beach and over the reef.
We only realized how strong the current actually was when we couldn't stand anymore and ended up swimming in place when we tried to swim out to the reef. Nina found it too overwhelming and I struggled to reach the outer area on my own. Once through the jellyfish, the reward for the effort was indescribable. Once far enough out, I let myself be carried by the current and floated over the many corals, some of which were turquoise, and the countless creatures. From cobalt blue mini fish to those that were certainly a meter in length, I saw fish that I had never seen swimming in an aquarium before. Plus, the weightlessness and tranquility underwater - I fell in love!
Once we reached the beach, the three of us embarked on a second snorkeling trip, which lasted 45 minutes. I must admit, I was relieved to have solid ground under my feet again, as swimming against the current at the end was a real challenge. We visited other bays, but none could compare to the Turquoise Bay.
After falling into bed exhausted that same evening, we headed to Coral Bay the next morning, where we had booked a tour for the following day.
The entire town felt like a huge campground, with a few shops full of diving equipment and postcards scattered around. The beach, what can I say, was once again fabulous.
The pictures on the postcards were not exaggerated at all, and behind the shallow light blue water at the beach was another snorkeling paradise. After feeding some snappers (imagine overweight trout) and having them swim between my legs, we enjoyed the sunset by the sea and discovered a new card game for ourselves in the evening, Skip Bo.
The next day was probably one of the most beautiful days of my life, and if you can say that about a single day, it means something.
The adventure began at 8 am when we were handed our wetsuits and fins for the upcoming tour at one of the diving shops. Once we arrived at the harbor, we sailed for about half an hour out to the sea to Blue Maze, a famous reef at the Ningaloo Reef. After the approximately 15 divers hopped into the water, we snorkelers followed suit. Accompanied by a crew member, we swam over the corals with their countless fish in all shapes and colors. After just a few minutes, a sea turtle suddenly appeared and swam calmly and undisturbed beneath us (Hey Dude). I don't know how, but suddenly water ran into my goggles in my excitement, and I was busy trying not to drown and praying that the turtle wouldn't disappear during that time. It seemed like it had no sense of urgency that day and floated through the water in slow motion. Our turtle encounter didn't end there, quite the opposite. Three more turtles accompanied us for a while on our journey, and when I swam directly above one of these wonderfully relaxed creatures, it surfaced and rose higher and higher until it took a breath just one meter away from me at the water's surface and then gracefully submerged back into the depths.
For me, it was clear that no matter what else happened that day, that moment was magical. Being arm's length away from one of the most sought-after creatures among divers, in its natural habitat, was and still is priceless to me, and a moment that no one can take away. Even now, after the whole tour, those seconds replay in my mind. The infinite calm of the sea combined with this turtle and the fireworks of joy that make you want to explode inside - incredible. Yes, incredible is the right word. That was my moment, and it sits in a treasure chest in my memories. Incredible.
We saw 4 turtles, and they weren't even the reason for our tour, no, it was pure luck.
The actual reason was black, up to 4 meters wide, and (thankfully) plankton-eating: manta rays.
After a break, our boat sent out the aircraft to search the sea for rays. For the next snorkeling session, we were divided into two groups for the sake of the rays. We were dropped off and picked up from the sea alternately. After waiting for news of a spotted ray for a while, the boat suddenly sped up, and we were instructed to get ready at the stairs at the back of the boat.
The boat stopped, and after the crew members exchanged excited looks, our guide jumped into the water first. After she raised her arm, we quickly jumped into the water and paddled as fast as our fins allowed to catch up. Unfortunately, our first ray said goodbye after just a few seconds, and after what felt like 500m (probably only 100m), we realized that chasing mantas was incredibly exhausting!
So we were picked up again and moved on to the next giant. The remaining five pursuits were much more successful.
I still consider my collision with the turtle the highlight of the day, but what can I do? How often do you float just a few meters above a manta ray with a wingspan of 3 meters, with your arms outstretched? Just as I was about to explode again, this beautiful creature underneath us made a graceful turn and showed us its spotted white underside.
Nobody can imagine the thrill of waiting at the edge of the boat and plunging into the water on command, giving it your all, and then floating above this gigantic creature as if someone had put the slow-motion switch on. Only nature can create that feeling.
Once we climbed back onto the boat, we were exhausted but high on life.
On the way to Ashos Gap, we spotted a few gray fins peeking out of the water and soon discovered a gang of dolphins. (It gets even better) After the dolphins checked out the neighboring boat, they paid us a visit as well and emerged from the water right next to our boat, just like in the cheesiest Corona ad.
Hallelujah! What is going on here?!
After having lunch on the deck amidst the endless turquoise expanse, we embarked on one last snorkeling session.
Although the manta session was officially over, after just a few seconds underwater, a stingray, one of the more dangerous rays with its stinger, passed us by. We were able to follow this one for a short while too, even though rays can reach speeds of up to 60 km/h.
After a few minutes, during which we saw 2 small squid and a group of tiny fish moving on the sea floor like an eerie black figure, we discovered a huge blue shell that closed when Anita tried to touch it. It was in the cleaning station, one of the few accessible spots for humans. It is visited by sharks and turtles to have their fins or shells polished, in accordance with the saying "Fish are friends, not food".
Excitedly, we swam to the famous spot, and as soon as we arrived, the first grey reef sharks, which can grow up to 2 meters long, were already swimming beneath us.
At first, the thought of swimming with sharks made the adrenaline rush, but these majestic creatures continued to swim calmly, and for a long time, we let ourselves drift above them, observing the spectacle of nature. We actually swam with sharks, believe me, does anyone actually believe that?
Once back on the boat, I sat on the deck with a coffee shortly after, trying to somehow organize and become aware of the experiences, but I couldn't. It simply wasn't possible. My mind was a holi party.
After this incredible trip, we walked to the shower at our campsite from the previous night, and after taking a refreshing shower, we listened to a lecture from the manager himself before laughing and leaving.
The next morning, I had to convince my travelmates to go to Blowholes after disappointing them a little in Tasmania. However, this time I had the Blowhole God on my side, and the force of the breaking waves made us all stunned.
Afterward, we finally had a budget supermarket with more than 3 shelves on the plan, and I'm telling you, it was so beautiful! Although we knew in advance that the west coast was undeveloped and characterized by its magnificent nature, we never thought that the conditions in Western Australia would resemble those in the Outback so much. If it weren't for occasional glimpses of the sea, we could just as well have been on our way to the Outback again. In the town of Carnarvon, we walked the 1 Mile Jetty before spending the rest of the day on the road. No, the driving never ends, and honestly, in this moment, I'm bored again, my butt hurts, and I know every single song from everyone's playlists by heart.
Sometimes, it really is exhausting to squeeze yourself into the car again and again for hours on end.
But then one of those awesome songs comes on, my thoughts wander through the past few days, and mix with the idea of seeing my family and friends again in 7 weeks.
No question, traveling can also be tiring. Sharing your entire life with two other people in a small campervan, never really "arriving" anywhere, and sometimes having to give up your will is just as much part of it as the incredible experiences that I get to annoy you with every day.
But then there is this feeling that makes me wake up happy every morning and go to bed happy every night. Bliss. Traveling, taking photographs, this simple life, it simply fulfills me. How many people can say that they are truly happy? If I could extend my travels by a year, I would do it. If I could see my family again tomorrow, it would be no less beautiful. Whatever may come, once you have seen how beautiful life can be, no one can easily break you. And yes, I am one of those lucky ones.