Uñt’ayata: 02.06.2018
It's time! Two months after booking my flights and B&Bs, and successfully reserving the rental car, my Aer Lingus plane took off from Frankfurt Airport - Destination: Dublin!
My first visit to Ireland, which I have been mentally planning for more than two years. Now it was finally time to do it! The plan was a 1-week brief visit to the southwest of the country for the initial introduction.
THE FLIGHT
I started early in the morning from Cologne. With my suitcase - I packed light, no unnecessary kilograms to carry around - and my backpack, I headed towards the ICE and relaxed, without any delay, in just under an hour towards Frankfurt Airport.
I haven't been here for a long time, last time was in 2014 when I went to the east coast of the USA; how bustling and big this airport is! From the long-distance train station, I had to find the shuttle bus that takes me to Terminal 2 - because that's where my flight was supposed to depart.
I would consider myself an experienced traveler, but I wandered around the terminal for quite a while until I found the Aer Lingus counters that were responsible for me. Just two lonely counters amidst a chaos of many other counters, even more chattering travelers, tons of suitcases, and the general hustle and bustle of departures. Good thing I was here 2.5 hours before the scheduled departure!
I never feel comfortable when I have to board an airplane. Too cramped, too exposed, too high. But with all the places I still want to see in the world, I just can't avoid it. Surprisingly, I was relatively relaxed the whole time (surely it was the anticipation of the upcoming trip). And this, even though the flight could only take off with a delay of about an hour.
There were various reasons. For example, the aforementioned two only open check-in counters in Terminal 2, which could not quite cope with the influx of Irish visitors who also wanted to board 'my' plane. Especially not because there were endless waiting times for some hard cases, such as a large travel group. What was the problem? No idea, but the line hardly moved forward in the first hour. Eventually, someone took pity and opened a third counter. From there on, it went smoothly!
Well, almost. Very unpleasant: I always roll my eyes when I see people trying to bring water bottles, large shampoo bottles, or similar through the security check. Everyone knows: it won't work! But then I was called aside myself after going through the scanner. At first, I thought that maybe it was because of the belt or the shoes - even though it didn't beep. But somehow everyone looked so serious and a police officer actually asked if I had a folding knife in the backpack that was rolling along the belt. Folding knife? Not me! Then, my backpack was gradually emptied. Until suddenly it dawned on me: I had forgotten my multitool. Such a small Swiss army knife-like thing that I had received as a thank you during my last blood donation. Completely confused! VERY unpleasant! Once that was cleared up, I was finally allowed to march towards the plane like everyone else, albeit a bit sheepish...
Eventually, we were ready for takeoff in the airplane. And nothing happened. Because due to the delayed boarding, we apparently missed our 'departure slot' and were not granted permission to take off for half an hour. But eventually, we did take off and I treated myself to a coffee on board for 3 euros - as a reward for getting up early. Very funny: in the paper cup, together with hot water, 'real' coffee powder is added, just like a French press. A filter then prevents you from drinking the coffee grounds. Does the coffee taste better because of that? I thought it did. But maybe it's the same effect that makes tomato juice taste particularly good on board and in the air!
The flight went by quickly, as always, the plane barely touched the ground, and everyone was ready to disembark in the aisle of the Aer Lingus plane. But no! After 'no permission to depart', it now said: no 'permission to disembark'. Of course, the friendly pilot immediately explained why, but since he spoke so quickly and also mumbled, none of us understood the reason ;-).
THE RENTAL CAR
At some point, the arrival part was done and I headed straight to the car rental counter. Since I had a reservation, I was directed to the Hertz office, which is located just outside the terminal and can only be reached by shuttle bus. It arrived promptly and soon I was in the huge parking lot.
The length of the line was limited, but it still took some time to process all of us. I encountered an employee who spoke so unclearly that in the end, I wasn't quite sure what I had actually signed as a contract. So much for being a supposedly 'experienced traveler' - how do people who don't really speak English manage to do it?
As requested, I got a GPS (thank goodness, my sense of direction is terrible!) and for an extra 60 euros (special offer of the day - should I believe him?) instead of a Corsa, I got a brand new Audi (I think it was an A3?). It was a beast! The Hertz employee, not entirely unjustifiably, explained to me that with this new car on the long route I planned to drive, I save a significant amount of gasoline compared to an old Corsa. So I just assume that the 60 euros were a good investment. And that was really a great car and I would be the first to take it for a spin, awesome!
DRIVING ON THE LEFT SIDE
Well, in retrospect, maybe I would have preferred a car with a few flaws. Because unfortunately, I was the one who caused the first damage to the new car!
I was highly motivated when I got into the Audi. Loaded the suitcase, set up the GPS, entered the address of the first B&B, checked everything - where are the windshield wipers? Lights? Radio? - and off I went! Maybe I was a little too motivated because I thought that I could drive at similar speeds as at home even in the unfamiliar left-hand side traffic... the first roundabout (entering clockwise!) went well, but as soon as we left the highway and got onto the narrow and winding country road, I bumped into the curb on the left several times. My new mantra: Keep to the right! Keep to the right! Keeep right.
My undoing was a pothole by the side of the road that I didn't see coming, and I hit it due to my initial tendency to the left. What I later found out at the B&B: the front left rim was scratched. I was so annoyed! I would probably have to pay a deductible of 250 euros - I could have invested that money differently. But: my own fault, can't change it anymore, let's continue. Just to calm you down in advance: there were fortunately no further mishaps, I had learned my lesson and from now on drove a bit more 'humbly' through Irish traffic. It was especially strange to shift with my left hand - you would think that as a left-hander, that would actually suit me...
B&B NO. 1 // THE 'SOUTHDALE' IN PORTMARNOCK
It was only a very short drive from the airport to Portmarnock, a suburb of Dublin. But you immediately feel like you're in a different world - a bit like in the housing development of the Desperate Housewives. Clean streets, birds chirping, green front yards, small houses...and one of them was my B&B. Great, I didn't have to worry about the parking problem here, the streets were clear and you could park everywhere.
So, I rang the doorbell as planned. An elderly gentleman, maybe in his 70s, opened the door for me. After a brief but friendly greeting, we went up the stairs to my room, one of a total of 3 that are rented out. But there was only one French family with their 2-year-old child present at the same time as me. At least that's what my landlord told me, I neither heard nor saw anyone. Then, the typical question that would reliably accompany me for the next few days: 'What would you like for breakfast?'. Of course, I had done my research beforehand - eggs, bacon, sausages, white pudding, black pudding, pancakes, toast, jam... I was afraid of the black and white pudding ;-), so for the rest of the vacation, I always said 'I like basically everything, but please vegetarian'. I chose 07:30 as the time because the next day, I would be driving across the country to Galway, and I wanted to leave early.
The room was small but clean and equipped with everything you need. First of all, a power socket for my phone - luckily, I remembered the adapter!
THE BEACH AND THE BUS RIDE TO DUBLIN
But then I immediately set off again to find a bus stop that would take me to the city center of Dublin. It was still early in the afternoon, and I wanted to make use of the rest of the day - because as I said, I would be leaving the area again tomorrow. And I didn't want to drive into the city center by car, as it was generally advised against - in guidebooks, blogs, etc. Therefore, I had downloaded the Journey Planner app in advance, which shows the bus and train connections throughout the country and was really worth its weight in gold for the entire week. Easy to use and with maps, so you always know where to go. The app promptly showed me a bus stop just a few hundred meters down the road from the B&B. Great!
But what awaited me there, I didn't see coming: a huge, magnificent beach! In retrospect, I read in the guidebook that this entire coastal area north of Dublin, which includes Portmarnock, is very popular. As a residence for wealthy city dwellers, artists, musicians - and as a weekend destination to spend a day at the beach right outside the city gates. I could relate to that very well!
So, I walked down to the sea - there were hardly any other people around, it was almost all to myself - and let the wind blow through my hair.
After my jog along the beach, I finally arrived at the bus stop. Just in time, there it was! As an owner of a Leap card (probably something like our job ticket?), you pay a little less, and I had to pay 3 euros to the bus driver for the approximately half-hour journey to the city center. What was new: You don't get any change back! Instead, you receive a coupon along with the ticket, with which you can collect your change at one of the transportation company's offices in Dublin. Presumably, it is calculated that hardly anyone does that. At least not a tourist who is only there for a few days - in any case, I didn't collect the change and preferred to use the time differently.
We made about 30 stops until we reached the city center, but the journey went by quickly, I had plenty to look at! New people got on and off all the time, the area changed from beach to industrial area to village-like suburbs and finally: bustling city! I had arrived in Dublin. What was also remarkable: the people are all very friendly. You thank the bus driver when you get off, you position yourself in the door area before your stop so that it goes quickly and the driver doesn't lose unnecessary time while stopping - that's something I rarely experience in Cologne.
DUBLIN // THE NORTH SIDE
I had already read that the city is divided by the Liffey river. Today, I wanted to focus on the supposedly slightly less beautiful north side.
But first: food search, I was hungry! Researched in advance, I walked to 'Beshoff' on O'Connell Street, a shop that supposedly sells very good fish & chips. And oh yes, it was delicious! Especially the fish and the vinegar and the tartar sauce that came with it. The fries were a bit too thickly cut for my taste, but that's complaining on a high level. On the left and right, I quickly got into conversation with other Dublin visitors and locals, so it wasn't boring.
After eating, I walked around the bridges (there are really many in Dublin) and kept going west until I eventually arrived at the Tullamore Whiskey Distillery. I didn't go inside, many places close around 5pm and I was too late for a tour.
I did make a detour to the south side to briefly walk through the colorful Temple Bar district - on that evening, there were many bachelorette parties and party-loving tourists. But I think that's not just on Saturdays ;-)! However, I just wanted to replenish my water supply at Tesco and was quite excited to see that they have the same self-service checkouts as my local grocery store.
The day was long and I was starting to feel tired. So, I quickly looked up the next bus connection and headed back towards Portmarnock. This time, I was smarter and had almost the right amount of money for the bus ticket, I only received 10 cents as a coupon. I was completely satisfied with the first day - Dublin city center didn't impress me that much, but I saw a lot, and above all, the beach and the beautiful location of my B&B were a great start to the trip!
Tomorrow: drive to the next destination, Galway!
OTHER MENTIONS
*** Sport pants seem to be trendy. Those tight leggings with colorful prints. Unfortunately, most people can't wear them suitably to their figures. *** Irish weather delivered what it promised today:
rain showers, wind, sun, clouds... everything. But I packed according to the 'layered look' principle, so I was prepared for any weather situation. *** The Irish bravely go swimming even at 18 degrees Celsius outside. Brrrr! *** The Aer Lingus uniforms are terrible. The crew was very nice, but they all looked like they were from a 60s movie, terribly outdated. But I read in the inflight magazine that an Irish designer has designed new uniforms, which will be worn in 2019. Luckily! ***