Tuscany 2001 - Day 8

Saturday, 16.6.2001

Today the daily program is not based on the 1st plan, but the trip to Lucca and Pisa is a fixed point. The only problem is that the travel group has been drastically reduced.

So I set off alone on a beautiful, hot day. At 11:00 a.m. I took the motorway to Pistoia and then through the hinterland.

The road winds its way up through countless bends - often only 2nd or 3rd gear. Over the Passo di Oppio, the road leads through densely forested mountains, through bizarre tunnels and through endless avenues. Again and again, teams of cyclists are travelling across the entire width of the road. And I also look a motorcyclist deep in the eyes.

Then finally Ponte della Maddalena - a really steep bridge. I also saw a bride and groom there with the ugliest husband - sorry!

In Lucca I leave the car outside the gates of the city walls and wander through the sleeping city (2:30 p.m.). Half of the city is occupied by an antiques market and therefore hordes of tourists.

I buy a CD for a lot of money (a suburbia compilation) and climb the city wall to find my car. It's a lovely place to take a walk (it's like a park), but I'm slowly getting tired and after walking almost halfway around the city, I finally see the Alfa.

I arrive in Pisa at 5, but with an almost empty tank because the few gas stations are all closed and I don't have any money for the pump. My parking spot is in a good location on the river bank above the Ponte alla Fortezza. I set off on my first exploratory tour with my backpack.

Today the festival of lights "Luminaria di San Ranieri" is celebrated in honor of the patron saint. The first of the 80,000 candles are already being placed on the houses along the banks of the Arno.

Through the Borgo Stretto - an extremely busy pedestrian zone with countless shops and restaurants in the arcades - I reach the Piazza del Duomo, also called Campo dei Miracoli (Field of Miracles).

I approach from the side where you can only see the leaning tower and I am very impressed. It is bigger than I expected and - mah, the dog is really crooked - you are paralyzed.

Because tomorrow (June 17, 2001) or in October, no one knows for sure, the Torre Pendente will be opened to the masses of tourists for the first time since 1990, a celebratory ceremony is taking place. There is television, the military keeps flying over the square in giant transporters, celebratory speeches are being given, music is playing, a large contingent of Carabinieri is on standby and the whole square is overcrowded.

Later, the guards clear the lawns of crowds - at least for a short time.

I sit down on the grass at the other end of the square, leaning against the city wall, and enjoy myself. I really like the city, even if the Tuscany guru Illungo is always complaining.

Then I stroll through the city for hours, visit the church of Santo Stefano dei Cavalieri, admire the people and walk along the Arno to the car. There are already stalls selling suckling pigs, sweets and toys for the little ones everywhere. There are already a lot of people out and about (around 8 p.m.) and thank God the crowd is changing - the majority are now Italians instead of French fries, Americans and the like.

After exchanging cameras and shirts, I listen to an Italian singer who is making great music with her band in the Giardino Scotto - half the city is shaking!

We continue along Corso Italia to Piazza Vittorio Emanuele and then back into the small streets and alleys of the old town. There are huge numbers of young people out and about, but also hundreds of prams and grandparents. It's crazy! The whole city is on its feet. I buy myself a cold pizza and a warm beer and stand at a crossroads and watch the people. It's indescribable, you have to experience it! Wonderful! A lively atmosphere everywhere. There's a band playing, there are mopeds in the middle of the street, an Italian is singing on Piazza Dante and the weather is perfect now (it was very humid during the day).

"Un caffè, per favore. Grazie."

Then I push my way into "La Bottega del Gelato". The ice cream is just as fantastic as at Nannini in Siena and - even at night - you have to lick it quickly.

It's finally dark - now you can see the full splendor of the candles. All hell is breaking loose at the Ponte di Mezzo. I've only experienced something similar on New Year's Eve on Stephansplatz in Vienna. A fireworks display was supposed to start at 11 p.m. But guess what. The start has been moved to mezzanotte and the Italians are masters of delay.

At 5 past 12 the first gun shot finally goes off, then another break, a few rockets and more shots and more breaks. The rockets are just visible above the roofs of the houses - I'm a bit disappointed. As it's now very cold, I get in the car and watch for a while. But I'm already very tired and drive out of the city.

On the country road to Lucca there are a few hairpin bends up a small mountain. Here the traffic practically breaks down, even the Carabinieri watch the fireworks. I join them and of course it looks much better here - powerful fireballs light up the sky above the city and the entire plain.

So, now it's finally time to head home. The day was exhausting, but absolutely wonderful. I'm driving as if in a trance. There's almost no traffic between Florence and Siena - I use both lanes and am only overtaken by a Porsche.

At a quarter past two I fall into bed and mentally wander through Pisa, surrounded by beautiful women...