14.10.2022 - Trekking and Mud Baths in Sapa

Here it is, the new blog post! Unfortunately, my original plan to finish writing the text on the last bus ride was not compatible with the driving style of the bus driver. So, with a slight delay, here is the travel report about Sapa.

I spent three days in Sapa, three days full of peace and relaxation. Well, I wasn't just relaxed the whole time. But I have to say, it's definitely much quieter and slower-paced in the mountainous northwest of Vietnam than in the capital city of Hanoi - although people still honk their horns here. I think that will be a constant during my time in Asia.

As mentioned before, Sapa is located relatively high up in the mountains, precisely at 1,600 meters. Consequently, the temperatures are much lower than in central Vietnam, so I had to swap my summer shorts and t-shirt for long pants, a sweater, and a jacket. The region is known for its beautiful mountain panorama and picturesque rice terraces, which is why hiking tours are at the top of the agenda here.

But let's start from the beginning: After my somewhat arduous journey, I was warmly welcomed at the Mega View Hostel by my host Diego. After a short power nap, I set off in the afternoon to explore the small town. However, it didn't take me long because Sapa seems to consist mainly of hostels/hotels, restaurants, and massage studios. It might sound a bit monotonous, but the setting in a valley surrounded by high mountains compensates for the lack of (city) charm. One thing that takes some getting used to is the fact that you are constantly followed in Sapa. The women of the local Hmong tribe leave no opportunity unexplored to sell their self-made bracelets and necklaces to tourists or convince them to go on a hike with them. And that brings me to the actual reason for my visit to Sapa - I wanted to hike and get to know the life of the locals in more detail.

After concluding the first day with good food and cool mountain air, it was finally time to head into the mountains the next day. I had booked a day trip through the hostel. In the morning, we were picked up by a Hmong woman (they really are called that). With her, we left the city, going downhill and uphill, passing beautiful rice terraces, grazing water buffaloes, and mountain peaks. Around noon, we got to enjoy a delicious meal at the Hmong woman's home. She served homemade spring rolls, cabbage, rice, tofu in tomato sauce, and chicken - delicious!

After the extensive break, we set off on the final stretch. This would take us across a large river to a small village in a remote valley. And this river turned out to be quite a challenge - at least for me. There was no bridge, so we had to take off our shoes, roll up our pants, and go for it. Sometimes, one thing leads to another, which for me meant taking a little bath in the rushing waters. The free wellness program was rounded off by a small mud bath in a rice field. For those who have never seen a rice field, imagine that they are constantly submerged in water - and when I say water, I mean a lot of water. Furthermore, these fields are only separated by very narrow embankments that you have to balance on. Once again, long story short. In my typical clumsy manner, I slipped and fell right into one of these rice fields - not a pleasant or clean experience. To make things worse, I had planned to spend the evening with a local family. Well, I couldn't change it anymore. Soaking wet and dirty, our guide dropped me off at the family's house after the hike. Apparently, the host mom wasn't particularly surprised by my appearance because she instructed me to give her my clothes so she could wash them. She probably knows the procedure well with three little children. In the evening, she invited us - five other backpackers and myself - to a traditional family dinner. In practice, that meant enjoying dinner together with the husband and children. So far, it was the best meal I had experienced in Vietnam - simply delicious. After a very chilly night (there was no heating), I took a motorcycle taxi back to Sapa in the morning.

Since the day was very rainy, foggy, and cold, the program was limited to a brief detour to the Heaven's Gate (although the fog prevented any view of the sky) and the Love Waterfall.

That's how my time in Sapa ended, and the next morning, I took a day bus - after my first experience, I had had enough of night buses - further north to...