Guinea

Wednesday, October 25, 2023

We left Tambacounda very early heading east. The total distance was 450 km, but due to the road conditions, it was expected to take over 8 hours. In addition, the border crossing from Senegal to Guinea was waiting for us after the first third of the trip. Based on previous experiences, this was always good for one or more surprises. The first part of the journey to the border was very smooth and we made good progress. The police checks slowly increased again, but did not become an obstacle. We reached the border in the late morning. The first stations on the Senegalese side were slow but uncomplicated. By 1:30 pm, we were almost done on the Guinean side as well. We were just waiting for the final stamps in the Carnet de Passages... when the unbelievable happened... it was like in slow motion: first, the scream of a woman, which made us all turn around. She was shouting at a heavily loaded van that was dragging a cable of the border facility with a chair attached to it on top of the luggage. This cable, in turn, got caught on a massive lighting mast with a solar panel. Since the driver of the van didn't notice and continued driving, he didn't realize that he had caused the mast to buckle and fall onto "ROOSTER". "Fortunately," we had been assigned this parking space. Beside the countless complaining border guards, police officers, involved and uninvolved people, there were 19 Germans who couldn't believe their eyes. The driver of the van kindly took a moment to establish his innocence and complain about us having parked our vehicle in the landing zone of the lamp-solar bullet. Fortunately, he was clearly pointed out by the local police forces that he and only he had messed up. Then he was quiet. After the initial shock and the subsequent hysterical laughter on our part... we could only take it with humor, we freed "ROOSTER" by lifting the mast together and letting the car drive out from underneath. Needless to say, we also ripped off the only functioning roof blinker in the process.

Completely overwhelmed by the situation and with a visible unease on their faces about what the German tourists would make of this, the border police came to us to ask us what our plans were. One can hardly imagine the relief in the faces of all those involved when we announced that we would simply continue driving and would not hold anyone accountable. "ROOSTER" had two new scars, but honestly, we had no ambition to argue with anyone about non-existent insurance on the other side. That was hopeless anyway. So, miraculously, our exit formalities were extremely expedited and 10 minutes later we were on our way to Labé, Guinea.

From the beginning, Guinea showed a beautiful side in terms of landscapes. A great country. However, it quickly became clear that poverty was even more pronounced here. We passed countless individual huts, villages, and abandoned houses. There was a noticeable difference compared to Senegal, even though Guinea is home to most of the region's natural resources. As we would later learn, these resources are, of course, also mined and exploited by many other nations. China, first and foremost. Out of nowhere, amidst the dense rainforest, one can find a huge Chinese gravel factory, which suddenly appears in front of you like the headquarters of James Bond's antagonist. Without warning, nothing on the left, nothing on the right; quietly and almost menacingly placed at the foot of a mountain. In some distance, you can also see something surreal, because it is unique on the entire journey, several viaducts emerging from the rainforest, which are intended to become a railway line to connect the mining areas with the coast. Built and operated by the same nation.

We still had a mountain ahead of us on this day, which would be more challenging due to the road conditions. We unanimously decided to tackle the mountain despite the onset of dusk because we wanted to reach our destination, Labé.

After the first climb and countless potholes, what had to happen... the spare wheel in "ICEMAN" also gave up under the constant strain on the drive shaft. After a brief discussion, it was clear that we would all stay overnight together on the mountain. We just had to find a suitable place. It was already dark by now, and as we used flashlights to orient ourselves at the level of the disabled vehicle, we realized that we were standing on the edge of a large clearing, which turned out to be the perfect campsite. Our disbelief at this coincidence could not have been greater, especially since the next part of the journey over the mountain revealed that there would not have been another, and I mean really not a single, place where we could have stayed overnight with all the vehicles.

The construction of the camp was already well-rehearsed, and it showed in the discipline and speed with which it was set up. Wolfgang and Uta quickly set up the station for dinner again and prepared boiling water for everyone. And even though we were all wet and exhausted, we made the best of the situation and ended the evening comfortably with a bag of Trek'n'Eat and a beer... in the middle of nowhere on a mountain in Guinea.

Thursday, October 26, 2023

We started early. We agreed that the tow trucks, including the safety vehicles, would drive ahead so that they could arrive in Labé as early as possible and everyone else could dismantle the camp. Although the rear guard caught up with us after a short time, we still made good progress over the mountain and even had time to take a short break at a very beautiful spot on the river that encircles the mountain.

With the awareness of losing a day, some of the vehicles went directly to the city to inquire at Hotel Tata if there were still available rooms. This turned out to be fortunate. Because the hotel was not only fantastically beautiful but also simple, and the operator was an angel. She provided everyone with freshly cooked, very delicious food at all times and fulfilled every wish without hesitation. We were all smitten.

Before the tow truck crew arrived there, we had to take care of "ICEMAN". With the help of our guide Karl, we found a welder whom we took to a local workshop. The broken part was removed, and he welded two "new" replacement parts for us. This time with twice as many damn points. One part was installed directly, and the other was packed for any incidents.

In Hotel Tata, we spent the rest of the day licking our wounds, showering, and tidying up the vehicles while waiting. In the case of "ROOSTER," this meant sealing all the impact points of the mast with duct tape.

During an evening trip to an ATM, I had the opportunity to get to know Labé a bit. What looked rather quiet and inconspicuous during the day and from the outside turned out to be a pulsating small metropolis with countless street stalls that were set up only in the evening and with incredibly busy people. We had a hard time getting through the streets with the car, but everyone was friendly, and we were treated very nicely.

In the evening, we had freshly baked pizza of our choice and an excellent wine.

Friday, October 27, 2023

Faranah, further west towards the border, was our destination for the day. And to anticipate... there were no incidents on this day. We had great weather and covered the nearly 340 km on roads of very different quality. We were able to enjoy the beautiful scenery and reached a campsite recommended in an app by Flo in the evening as darkness fell. There we met a surprised couple who were traveling in the opposite direction and had also set up their camp there. They were a very nice couple from Canada who prepared us for the tour the next day. They had encountered muddy tracks on their journey, which had been soaked with rain for several days and where a truck had been stuck. Since there were no alternatives, we mentally prepared ourselves for some challenges... and those challenges would indeed come.

Saturday, October 28, 2023

We had 440 km ahead of us, and we knew that it would not be easy. Even Google Maps predicted over 8 hours for the route. That was already a good indication based on experience. Our destination for the day was Nzérékoré. We wanted to either find a suitable campsite or a hotel there. We did find a few hotels online, although they couldn't be booked online. So, it was a surprise.

The first part of the route was fine. Then it got a bit bumpy, and then we reached the area that the Canadians had already "warned" us about. And they hadn't exaggerated.

There was a truck overturned in front of us, so inconveniently located in the mud that it didn't offer any possibility of passing except for a narrow strip that led across a small stream. The first vehicles from our group had already passed, and they had the experience that it was very, very tight. Now it was "ICEMAN's" turn, the largest vehicle. Sergej and I already had a slightly uneasy feeling, as it was indeed very tight on the passenger side, and the rear axle could easily slip and end up in the riverbed. That was also the reason why, in the end, after we had almost passed, we hit the wheel of the overturned truck in mid-air with the rear window because we turned a little too fast to leave the area behind us. Long story short: the rear window couldn't withstand the pressure and was expertly replaced with a box lid and a lot of duct tape.

After a short break, we resumed our journey and encountered a second truck. Rather two trucks, which again completely blocked the passage, at least for larger vehicles. Moreover, the truck that had to make way was hanging so crooked in the air and was only held up by a few tree trunks that everyone agreed in this case... no way.

Fortunately, we then received a tip that a few hundred meters ahead, there should be a field path leading to the next village, bypassing this spot. On an exploration trip, the Land Cruiser crew confirmed that the path was passable but also made it clear that there were two challenging ascents on the way. So, to avoid any risks, we decided to use the remaining recovery equipment and tow the two Transits up the two slopes. After perfect preparation by Flo and Wolfgang, this went smoothly (with a loss of 2.5 hours), and we were able to continue our journey.

Without further difficulties, we reached Nzérékoré. However, since it was already quite late and dark, the search for a campsite was no longer necessary. We searched the city, and after an hour, we could hardly believe our luck when we found rooms for everyone in a Catholic accommodations. The operator was very nice and helpful from the beginning and made it clear right away that everyone would be given a single room except for married couples. That was absolutely fine with us. And to top off the hospitality, fresh fish and chips were still cooked for us at midnight. With ice-cold beers. Fantastic. At 1:30 am, everyone fell into the excellent beds.