From Lagos to Spain

EV Cycling Day 9 (15 May): Lagos - Albufeira - Faro 105 km

It is the last full day on Portugal's coast, today along the highly developed Algarve. Lagos is a party town, the streets were full of people and the shouting could be heard half the night in our accommodation. In the morning, as we drive along the pier out of the city, it is quiet and there is little traffic. After a few kilometers, we drive for a while on the busy EN 125 until just before Portimão. The narrow streets are full of tourists. After crossing the Rio Arade, we cycle quietly along beautiful back roads to Armacão de Péra, a seaside resort with numerous hotels. It goes up and down to Albufeira, where I was first in the Algarve 45 years ago. I can't recognize anything anymore. We then finally make faster progress to Vilahermosa and Quarteira, strongholds of Algarve tourism, in the truest sense of the word. Who is supposed to buy all the apartments and houses on offer there? The golfers on the numerous golf courses? We continue to curve along the wide avenues with the 100 roundabouts and finally arrive on the gravel road through the salt pans to the airport and finally in the center of Faro, where we have booked a nice apartment. Faro has a beautiful old town and not the hustle and bustle of Lagos. Most people arrive here by plane and then drive straight to the coastal towns. We toast the first 1000 km and Miehle's 71st birthday with a rosé.

EV Cycling Day 10: Faro - Isla Cristina (E) 90 km

With a little effort we leave the city and follow the EN 215 before we come to the perfectly developed EV 1. A great deal of effort has been put into creating a cycle path through the swamps using fine gravel and wooden planks, which is used by many tourists. Later we have to switch back to the road or get shaken around on rough gravel tracks. Overall it is very bumpy today, but the bikes can take a lot. After 70 km we reach the Rio Guadana, the border river between Portugal and Spain. After exactly two weeks we leave this beautiful country with its helpful people and take the ferry to Spain. We ride on a well-paved gravel road, the Via Verde, to Isla Cristina, where we spend the night in a tent again.

Wine recommendation: Valtravieso Ribera del.Duero Crianza 2020 - very good wine!

Conclusion Portugal:

We spent two weeks in Portugal. In addition to our stays in Porto and Lisbon, we cycled almost 900 km along the coast. This was physically very demanding, as there were only stages with less than 800 meters of elevation at the beginning and end of the route. The steep ramps in particular presented us with great challenges, and even pushing the bike was sometimes extremely strenuous. The paths were generally easy to ride. Nevertheless, our bikes had to endure a lot on the many gravel roads! The preparation at home with tips from other cyclists was very helpful. This meant that sections that were described as impassable could be avoided. The stages were still long, and the daily routine was clear: set off after breakfast, two or three breaks, arrive, shower, a short tour of the city, eat and sleep. For us cyclists, the fact that there is a pastelaria with delicious pastel de nata and good coffee everywhere, even in the smallest village, was very pleasant and helpful. The weather was dry except for the first two days, but not warm either. Good and pleasant for cycling, not inviting for swimming. Only on the third day was it hot and therefore exhausting. Because of the weather, we decided not to spend two nights in a tent and also to spend a day relaxing on the beach.

In the first week of cycling we had a few minor and major arguments about the routes, the procedures and other issues. Now things are running much more smoothly.

The people in Portugal were always friendly to us, but were rather reserved and cautious. Most of the young Portuguese people spoke very good English and were always able to help us.

Porto and Lisbon are very interesting cities with a vibrant life, but when we visited, the many tourists somewhat limited the enjoyment. People were queuing up at many interesting places.

On the ferry ride to Ayamonte in Spain, Dominique said that we probably wouldn't be able to get to Portugal. This is probably true and at the same time unfortunate. But Portugal is just very far away.