Stage 117: From Karakol to Santash

Off to Kazakhstan! At least that's what I thought in the morning. Unfortunately, I didn't leave Karakol until very late. Jalil's whole family was on their way to a school event. Eventually, I reached him and was told to leave the keys and money in the room, but it was already noon. Nevertheless, I set off in a good mood, as the border was only 85 km away. At first, the road went slightly uphill on a well-paved road. But after 30 kilometers, I had to turn off the main road (according to my navigation), and the road suddenly became dreadful. The surface couldn't even be called gravel anymore, it was a constant struggle. Later, there were a few smaller and obviously very poor villages. Some children were playing on the 'road', and a boy ran alongside me with his hand open, shouting, 'money, money!'. I had never experienced that before, maybe that was the only English word he was taught in school. But I can hardly imagine that tourists get lost there often, in hindsight, there probably was another way...

After a short rain shower, the climax came: I only had the option to turn around and go back to Karakol or push my bike up a hill full of rocks. My navigation called it a 'road', but the term is relative. Even while pushing, I got so out of breath that I had to take breaks. When I finally reached the top, the path got slightly better, and I saw a few nomads with their animals and yurts. I think they had never seen a cyclist up there before, I only received confused looks and head shaking. After a few kilometers, I went downhill again on an equally bumpy track, I wouldn't even have ridden it with a mountain bike. Somewhat frustrated, I eventually reached another 'main road' (which was also mostly made of sand and gravel), by now it was clear that I wouldn't make it to Kazakhstan today. There were no shops or reception, no chance. After another five kilometers, I set up my tent on a meadow next to a small river, and I was sure that I would definitely remain undiscovered there. Three nomads with their herds proved me wrong, especially the cows almost trampled over my tent out of confusion. Nevertheless, I liked the place, and it was peaceful at night.